- Thread starter ukracer
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tinman123
Putting the Extra into ordinary.
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- 1,068
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- Northern Iron.
as you can see they removed about 2 row of tiles off the roof, under that there seems to be insulation filling the cavity somewhat which would help stop the rubber from sagging.
they had the flat roof done in such a way that they had a barge to go up before they turned it onto the existing roof so when the tiles go back there is a drop from them to the flat roof, less would do but water on a windy day is better off the further away it can be from a pitched roof.
after that they just stuck it down as you can see in the video and it would of just laid on the pitch of the roof trusses., laths down again and re tile the roof bottom.
or that id be my take on it anyways.
if i was tying into a roof that had nothing between the trusses then id probably cut noggins to fit between them so the rubber had something to lie on but maybe it would never sag for all i know, but i do like to be thorough personally.
i may have a smallish flat roof to do on the house here in the next 12mths or so, we might add on an extension but there is one area where i have no other option but a flat roof.
i never liked the idea of flat roofs tbh but i guess things have came a long way since the first of them.
there seems to be a good guarantee with that roof, 50 yrs, which even at 40 would be impressive id of thought.
from my experience black and the sun dont mix well.
but compared to what ive seen so far that product looks not so bad tbh.
is it expensive compared to other options?
is it something you can buy and lay yourself?
is it hard to get?.
they had the flat roof done in such a way that they had a barge to go up before they turned it onto the existing roof so when the tiles go back there is a drop from them to the flat roof, less would do but water on a windy day is better off the further away it can be from a pitched roof.
after that they just stuck it down as you can see in the video and it would of just laid on the pitch of the roof trusses., laths down again and re tile the roof bottom.
or that id be my take on it anyways.
if i was tying into a roof that had nothing between the trusses then id probably cut noggins to fit between them so the rubber had something to lie on but maybe it would never sag for all i know, but i do like to be thorough personally.
i may have a smallish flat roof to do on the house here in the next 12mths or so, we might add on an extension but there is one area where i have no other option but a flat roof.
i never liked the idea of flat roofs tbh but i guess things have came a long way since the first of them.
there seems to be a good guarantee with that roof, 50 yrs, which even at 40 would be impressive id of thought.
from my experience black and the sun dont mix well.
but compared to what ive seen so far that product looks not so bad tbh.
is it expensive compared to other options?
is it something you can buy and lay yourself?
is it hard to get?.
Oh the shed was finished outside ages ago. Lol just finally finished board out inside of the roof after sticking in 4 inch of insulation.
Trying to make space but things like bolts are taking up space I could do with using to sort out the rest of the crap in there.
It's expensive and heavy.
It's easy to fit other than the weight
Easy to get hold...yes.
My main concern is the existing roof felt under the tiles is old ragged at the bottom but laying new means stripping all tiles off.
I am hoping to remove one lath and then tuck enough rubber away under neath to ensure the decent under felt is well over the top of the rubber.
It's easy to fit other than the weight
Easy to get hold...yes.
My main concern is the existing roof felt under the tiles is old ragged at the bottom but laying new means stripping all tiles off.
I am hoping to remove one lath and then tuck enough rubber away under neath to ensure the decent under felt is well over the top of the rubber.
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If you want any local(ish) advice, I can recommend Parkside Roofing.
Yeah I removed the bottom two rows of tiles but my main concern was how to replace the under tile felt that is over 40 years old and very brittle. I need to lift that to get the epdm underneath it. I guess it could do with a complete tile strip. Some new under tile felt fitted and re battened one day. But I am knackered after 2 days on the roof so I guess it will have to wait.
The key issue is watching how to wet proof the draining from the roof onto the tiles. Some pics might help.
That's my main problem as the epdm has to go in two directions it's proving a headache.
I will look at the vids but if I go epdm that needs to be water tight so i think some
joining might be needed
I thought 8 had watched those two vids gaz. Problem is the epdm needs to go under the felt coming from the ridge but over the tile that is below flat roof height. I think I need to invest in a roll of joint sealer and black glue...lol
gaz1
Member
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- 19,229
- Location
- westyorkshire
gaz1
Member
- Messages
- 19,229
- Location
- westyorkshire
easisest way is to take out the first lath batern board up a little across the front fix your epdm to the board this seals up to that point
your felt drops back over it
there is a metal trim that joins from both materials
at the corners to the roof id still be using the method of fixing to your soakers with the epdm just needs longer soakers
edit found one
your felt drops back over it
there is a metal trim that joins from both materials
at the corners to the roof id still be using the method of fixing to your soakers with the epdm just needs longer soakers
edit found one
mike os
just a little insane.....
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- 9,809
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- North Wales
Easy enough. ... lift 2 or 3 rows of tiles and battens,
Slip a new pitched roof membrane under the existing , lift the existing gently and get up as far as you can..... alternative is a roll of wide dpc .... 12 to 18 inches wide... this is stiff enough to push and wiggle under the existing felt if yoy are carefully you will manage it most times... all you need is about 100mm overlap at the top and a bottom flap you can lift over the epdm
4mm ply up the slope to support the epdm 200mm or do should be plenty
To go 2 ways to will need to cut and join... don't try to save money, buy the right kit
Glue to flashing with contact adhesive
Slip a new pitched roof membrane under the existing , lift the existing gently and get up as far as you can..... alternative is a roll of wide dpc .... 12 to 18 inches wide... this is stiff enough to push and wiggle under the existing felt if yoy are carefully you will manage it most times... all you need is about 100mm overlap at the top and a bottom flap you can lift over the epdm
4mm ply up the slope to support the epdm 200mm or do should be plenty
To go 2 ways to will need to cut and join... don't try to save money, buy the right kit
Glue to flashing with contact adhesive
Still does not show the actual part I am stuck on.
I think between you I get the gist of what to do but it's not simple. ....that said the previous roofs were fitted by so called proffesionals and they were quite bodged up to be honest.
gaz1
Member
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- 19,229
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- westyorkshire
what you need to do is something like this but this is done in lead you need to create the same
straighten out the right side and fill up inbetween by using an elongated u shape wider at the top of the u the inner u shape goes towards the point of your rough edge
your creating whats been created via the lead shape but you need to be about half a slate covered
the red is what you have cut you need a filler piece bigger than your cut which is green and has to overlap the below part of your epdm
straighten out the right side and fill up inbetween by using an elongated u shape wider at the top of the u the inner u shape goes towards the point of your rough edge
your creating whats been created via the lead shape but you need to be about half a slate covered
the red is what you have cut you need a filler piece bigger than your cut which is green and has to overlap the below part of your epdm
