Epoxy primer pictures on the bmw

[bigbird76]

Just some random shots of my 1st time brush painting and spraying with Epoxy primer

When i fabricated these strengthening points i thought it was best to add a 30mm hole into the plate so that i can get better access to coating it with paint.

Thought i better include a pic of my daily oil burner, She was feeling left out

Jotun jotamastic 87 paint with wintergrade hardener
Jotun No 17 Thinners

Cheap paintbrushes
Cheap Gravity fed spray gun
Cheap compressor.

Just to add i know there are some runs here and there but the parts that will be viewed are going to be flattened out, and the runs underneath will be coated over with seamsealer, A few other areas left to spray but im getting there slowly, I am not going to spray the top half of the car, I will leave that for the bodyshop to do as im not that good yet.

Cheers all
Leigh

 

[Weldinator]

Looks pretty good to me. Has it been painted or is that the colour of the epoxy primer ?

You could have made a weld in strut brace, they make a better difference in getting the stiffness and better at preventing the wing flex than bolt on ones.

What difference will the 'winter grade' hardener make compared to the usual 2k epoxy paint ?

Is the epoxy paint you have used one of the best ?

What car is it BTW ?

 

[bigbird76]

Looks pretty good to me. Has it been painted or is that the colour of the epoxy primer ?

You could have made a weld in strut brace, they make a better difference in getting the stiffness and better at preventing the wing flex than bolt on ones.

What difference will the 'winter grade' hardener make compared to the usual 2k epoxy paint ?

Is the epoxy paint you have used one of the best ?

What car is it BTW ?

Thanks for the kind words i know i could of done a better job with more preperation but the bodyshop will do most of it.

That is the colour of the epoxy primer, It is available in different colours i wanted black thats all, I had other braces on the car when i welded it, just me being lazy and not taken the brace off yet to coat the top of the mounts.
Winter grade hardener will let you paint in temperatures of up to -5 so great for spraying in winter which is when most people potter about in thier garages.

I used Jotun as there seems to be good reviews on various forums, and prices are not too bad either, There might be better stuff out there im not sure but i would use this stuff all day it sprays on nice for a novice like me.

The car is a 1988 M3 evolution II

Leigh

 

[piman]

Hello Weldinator,

"You could have made a weld in strut brace, they make a better difference in getting the stiffness and better at preventing the wing flex than bolt on ones."

I doubt it would make any difference on a 'brace bar' that is bent as the effectiveness of the bar is severely compromised. I know they are bent to clear the engine but it is not good engineering.

Alec

 

[Grrrmachine]

Very nice to see an E30 treated with such care, and I like the "jacking-point" delete and strengthening. Did the car have any of the other traditional rust spots?

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Rust

 

[bigbird76]

Very nice to see an E30 treated with such care, and I like the "jacking-point" delete and strengthening. Did the car have any of the other traditional rust spots?

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Rust

Yes all the usual areas up as far as the A pillars/scuttle. Thankfully the roof is ok.

New panels replaced were:-

Front slam panel
Front inner wings both sides
New Chassis leg offside
Both Front bumper hangers
New bulkhead/battery panels under the scuttle
New scuttle
Repaired A pillars from donar 320
Both Outer sills
Inner rear wing offside (comes in 2 parts)
Rear Panel
Handbrake pipes

Lots of cut out and repairs to floor area but i did small parts at a time, some brackets are No longer available so i had to fabricate new parts and cut some parts from a donar 320. The jacking point which is actually a strengheneing point as you say is also no longer available so i had some dimensions from another M3 owner and decided to add the hole.

Cheers
Leigh

 

[Sidney Rough-Diamond]

Please don't jack on what been called the jacking point/strengheneing point. It is not a jacking, it was only there so the bare shell in the factory could be moved around on them There is no strength there to jack a built-up car. It will flex the floor pan. buckle it, crack the underseal and then just cause the rust to start over.
I have often thought them best left off a restored car to stop anyone jacking there, and to save it from being a water/rust trap. but most go for the original look and keep them.

Nice job on the repairs though, really coming together to look like a 'new' factory shell.

 

[Grrrmachine]

yeah, that's why I put them in quote. I've just finished repairing my floor and sills after the previous owner used those pads to jack the car; unfortunately, the proper points on the sills were rusted too.

The repairs to this M3 shell are great though; good patches on the inside and new panels where it really matters! Keep up the good work!

 

[M@tt]

cracking effort!!!