EV Charging Point

[Onoff]

Looking at a bit of future proofing, that I'll need to learn sometimes and some landscaping here and how I thus might install an EV point some distance from the house. Starting from a zero knowledge point but picking it up I think.

I've got to decide on the likely run from the house cu and do my volt drop calcs before looking at buying ducting, cable etc. Digger man lined up as and when! Then to include enough slack in the cable and allow for that in the calcs as later I'll be moving the cu from it's present position in the porch about 3m inside the house and at an accessible height.

As a first point of call I dived into the TLC website, always good for technical downloads!

Reading the first EV charger bumpf that came up. Call me picky but "We recommend the use of a Type B curve circuit breakers"? It's not plural, it should be "breaker" or drop the "a". One must have standards!

Then this. Read literally it would suggest they want you to break into the incoming split con cable to find the live! Anyway, shouldn't it be "line" now? It's the seperate tails after the head fuse and before the meter I guess? The current clamp prevents you popping the 63/80/100A incomer I believe.

Not the worst Chinglish I've come across but it worries me a little what else they've "missed".

My immediate question please is what is the purpose of the Cat-5 cable that's run with the SWA and how does it connect both ends?

Cheers

 

[Onoff]

Ref the Cat-5, I presume there's no issue running normal SWA then an additional Cat-5?

I'll probably run a 50mm or bigger duct for the SWA with a 20mm inside that for the Cat-5.

Don't like the idea of taking the Cat-5 into the consumer unit tbh, that seems mad. You'd then have to bring it out of the consumer unit via a gland to wherever it then goes.

 

[daedalusminos]

The Cat-5 is for the charger (technically it's an EVSE) to communicate to the current clamp/meter or whatever other shenanigans you have in the house. Use the EV Ultra cable with integrated Cat-5, it's going to making going into the EVSE housing much neater and weatherproof.

 

[daedalusminos]

Don't like the idea of taking the Cat-5 into the consumer unit tbh, that seems mad. You'd then have to bring it out of the consumer unit via a gland to wherever it then goes.

Your current clamp is usually in the CU - in fact the CT clamp itself could be in the CU.

 

[daedalusminos]

Typically you will need 1 to 4 ways spare in the CU...
BASIC (1 way): MCB for the EVSE
BETTER (2 ways): above + CT
BEST (3 ways): above + surge protection
NOT REALLY BETTER (4 ways): Your surge protector may need it's own MCB

 

[Onoff]

All ways in my cu are used already, well the one spare is destined to be used by something else, (an 8.5kW body dryer).

https://flic.kr/p/2pWjJkd

It'll have to be a seperate cu for the EV point With Henleys to split the tails. As I see it any current clamp needs to go on the Line tail before the tails are split.

Not a lot of space, the cu will get moved at some time.

 

[addjunkie]

Before you buy cable….you can buy 3 core swa with internal data cores, saves dicking about with two cables. If I remember correctly your supposed to get DNO to check your installation first.

Your bills will be much lower if you put the henlys in the blue and brown!

 

[Kayos]

You only need the CT if you need to reduce charging current

My charger is the same brand, likely just the older model, and I don't use the CT as I want it to run at 7kw all the time. I have no need to limit the supply

I also have it in dumb mode, found letting the car decide when to charge is much more reliable

 

[8ob]

I would install a 4” duct and string it up, worry about cable requirements as and when you need them.

Bob

 

[Onoff]

Thanks all. Broadly speaking, if I wanted two charging leads, one on the pillar by the pug front nearside, then another 6m to the right, on the other pillar then how's that done. (House to the left).

Not two chargers per se but two charging leads.

https://flic.kr/p/2m9xMRC

I assume volt drop calcs are the same as for any other load?

Voltage Drop = ( mV/A/m ) x L x Ib / 1000

So mV/A/m from the cable maker.

Where lb is derived from the circa 7.4kW at 230V rating of the charger? So +32A hence the 40A breaker.

 

[Red'n'Black]

You only need the CT if you need to reduce charging current

My charger is the same brand, likely just the older model, and I don't use the CT as I want it to run at 7kw all the time. I have no need to limit the supply

I also have it in dumb mode, found letting the car decide when to charge is much more reliable

Dumb question - I know very little about EV chargers - why does it need a remote current measurement?

Or to put it another way, if the charge current throttling is an optional extra, why can't the measurement be done adjacent to, or inside, the charger?

 

[Kayos]

Dumb question - I know very little about EV chargers - why does it need a remote current measurement?

Or to put it another way, if the charge current throttling is an optional extra, why can't the measurement be done adjacent to, or inside, the charger?

They measure the total energy consumption of the property to make sure the charger doesn't push it over the edge

Useful if your supply is marginal during the day but allows full power over night

 

[Onoff]

Dumb question - I know very little about EV chargers - why does it need a remote current measurement?

Or to put it another way, if the charge current throttling is an optional extra, why can't the measurement be done adjacent to, or inside, the charger?

Seeing as the EV charger puts quite a draw on the incoming supply, I believe it prevents the EV charging if the rest of the house demand is high. I you had say leccy shower, hob/oven, (welder ) all drawing at once, then tried to charge the EV at 7.4kW the worry is popping the incomer head fuse.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I started this thread to be schooled!

 

[MetalMonkey]

A duct would be sensible to give you options, chargers are fast changing technology.

This is the sort of cable you want to use:

https://www.superlecdirect.com/evultra3x6-electric-vehicle-charging-cat5e-cable-6mm-black

 

[jimbo84]

Seeing as the EV charger puts quite a draw on the incoming supply, I believe it prevents the EV charging if the rest of the house demand is high. I you had say leccy shower, hob/oven, (welder ) all drawing at once, then tried to charge the EV at 7.4kW the worry is popping the incomer head fuse.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I started this thread to be schooled!

They don’t prevent charging but the charger will throttle back if there’s too much load on the house, or at least that’s what mine was programmed to do, it was never actually required to throttle back though.

Strictly speaking you should notify the DNO of the install, self notify if it’s below x amount, or there’s a different procedure if it’s above x amount, I can’t remember the figures.

You’ll also need an EVSE adapter for your MFT to carry out the required install tests. I hired an adapter when I installed mine.

I believe they all have to be smart chargers now, you can’t buy or install the old dumb types. (Who’s going to slap your wrists anyway so you could source a used one from ebay and do what you want at your own property).

Did away with the electric van to go back to a dino juice car so mine’s just an expensive ornament sat on the wall now.

 

[addjunkie]

Thanks all. Broadly speaking, if I wanted two charging leads, one on the pillar by the pug front nearside, then another 6m to the right, on the other pillar then how's that done. (House to the left).

Not two chargers per se but two charging leads.

https://flic.kr/p/2m9xMRC

I assume volt drop calcs are the same as for any other load?

Voltage Drop = ( mV/A/m ) x L x Ib / 1000

So mV/A/m from the cable maker.

Where lb is derived from the circa 7.4kW at 230V rating of the charger? So +32A hence the 40A breaker.

You can get double chargers so two sockets. Then just buy the longer charge leads. They come in a selection of lengths. A neighbour fitted one with an integral lead. It got damaged…and he needed a new charger.

Type 2 charging cable | Voldt | Free shipping – V0LDT

We supply the right charging cable type 2 for your EV or PHEV at the highest quality in stock. Enjoy free shipping and a 2 years full warranty at Voldt!

voldt.co.uk

 

[J1nx]

Installed mine last week, i phoned the DNO, they emailed me a form which I completed and returned, had approval within 48hrs, no issues. A lot of the form doesn’t need filling in as it includes V2G applications and heat pump installs. All very simple.

The approval letter came with a link to do the form online, not sure why they didn’t give me it in the first place but here it is…
EV application

I went with a tethered lead on the Hypervolt but it would be a five minute job to change out if required. Keep a cable in the car and have home point tethered is my recommendation.

 

[not done it yet]

Don’t forget the earth rod if your supply is PME.

Don’t forget to ensure your incoming mains supply is not on a ‘looped’ circuit.

DNO will need to know about any 7kW EV charger being installed.

 

[Onoff]

Don’t forget the earth rod if your supply is PME.

Don’t forget to ensure your incoming mains supply is not on a ‘looped’ circuit.

DNO will need to know about any 7kW EV charger being installed.

The incoming supply is PME but my install is connected TT with a couple of rods and a plate in series.

A few years ago they "upgraded" the overhead lines with periodic earth rods so as to be able to offer PME to new builds etc.

The only problem is that the lowlifes come along with a cordless grinder now and then and cut the copper off the runs down the pole, as high as they can reach standing in the back of their pickup.

Sticking with my rods.

 

[not done it yet]

The reason they are insisting on an earth rod close to the vehicle is, I think, due to the possibility of connecting between phases with another vehicle charging from a different phase, in a similar situation. I think there has been some consternation re street chargers not being sufficiently ground protected?