First real project : Overhead storage

[ChrisBailey]

My garage is not very big and I have quite a few big pieces of equipment to store including a project car.

The big bits I need to store are an engine hoist, an engine stand, a roll cabinet, a small blasting cabinet, a 200ltr compressor and a tecarc mig welder.

I intend on putting stuff that moves into a shed in my garden, thats next years project.
Im going to put the compressor underneath a workbench. Everything that is fairly light weight such as hand power tools etc will be going onto some overhead sheving I am currently building.

So, I had some 20x20x3mm by 18m angle steel and 1mx2m 1.2mm sheet delivered to make some shelving.

I also got 40x40x5mm by 18m of angle steel and 1mx2m 4mm plate steel for the workbench. Thats project number 2.

So far I have made a frame 3.5m by 0.5m for the base of the shelf. Im going to make some triangular supports so it can be mounted to the wall.
Then put the sheet metal down in the base to complete the shelf.

This is going to be fixed to the brick wall and mounted above head height so i can walk under it.

Im not sure how much weight this could take and I dont intend on finding its breaking point. Ill only put light weight stuff on it, but I would imagine it will still be fairly heavy.
Not sure the best way to fix to the wall yet either.
Im thinking anchor bolts, maybe m10s and quite a few of them.
I also need to use some wooden battons to stand the shelf off the wall to allow the garage wiring to sit behind it.

Ill put some pictures up tomorrow.

 

[James1979]

If it’s brick it doesn’t like anchor bolts. Get a bit enthusiastic tightening them and the brick explodes. What about chemfix and thread bar?

 

[ChrisBailey]

The frame base.

Its going to replace the rubbish wooden shelf, but be longer and higher.

Some welds. I bevelled every edge and welded both sides.

 

[gaz1]

i went with 2mm box section and done the same



ive also fasten it to the rafters for extra support theres more weight on that than you think but i can only store so much above head height

box section was much better to use more for its design basis than using angle iron

 

[ChrisBailey]

What did you use to fix it to the wall?

I went for angle steel to keep the weight down. Its also really cheap at about £1.50 per meter.

 

[Wallace]

I put my compressor in a plastic garden store outside, depends on your neighbours though.

 

[gaz1]

What did you use to fix it to the wall?

I went for angle steel to keep the weight down. Its also really cheap at about £1.50 per meter.

you went less weight 3mm angle iron but less strength compared to box section over a given length

angle iron will bow when 4ft 2" compared to box section over the same distance

i used 40mm box i think 2mm thick

and also welded 5mm 2" 8" long plates so could seperate the bolts over a distance one above and one below

1st pic shows this

 

[badabec]

ChrisBailey, what car is your avatar?

 

[bricol]

I'm going with Eagle SS . . .

 

[bricol]

I'd simply attach the back of the frame to the wall, and run some verticals up to the rafters - bolt though as close to the top of the rafter as possible. Could even use a 10mm rawl pug and suitable coach bolt into the wall as it will only be taking a verical load, not a pulling load,.

 

[ChrisBailey]

The car is a VW Beetle based Eagle SS.

Im tempted to go with M8 chemical resin bolts into the brickwork. They seem like they offer the most in load bearing ability and mean the bricks wont crumble.

If its starts to get scary, Ill run some supports up to the rafters too. I was going to fix it this way from the start but the rafters are not accurately evenly spaced.
Theres more than 20mm difference between pairs of rafters.

Never done chem fix before, doesnt seem that difficult though.

 

[James1979]

It's easy. Just make sure you've got a clean hole, as it were!! Airline it out and use a bottle brush to get all the dust out. They supply one with some resins. I always degrease the studs but not sure that's absolutely necessary.

Other than that it's straightforward enough

 

[Brad93]

You could opt for the smash type resin capsules, saves buying a bunch of spare nozzles And the dedicated gun.

You put a vial of resin in the hole and when you put the stud in it bursts.


The resin goes off really quick so do all your holes in quick succession or the nozzle will go off.

 

[Dcal]

If you use a pure epoxy like Hilti RE500 or equivalent (I use Buffalo PU500 because I can get it cheap locally) it takes a while to go off so you don't waste loads of nozzles and the final bond is brilliant.
Also pure epoxies are not as fussy about cleaning, but cleaning is always good.

 

[Brad93]

If you use a pure epoxy like Hilti RE500 or equivalent (I use Buffalo PU500 because I can get it cheap locally) it takes a while to go off so you don't waste loads of nozzles and the final bond is brilliant.
Also pure epoxies are not as fussy about cleaning, but cleaning is always good.

Never used the slow cure stuff, normally need to get brackets etc up and move on. Useful to know though. Fischer I normally use. Have the Fischer gun, blower and a set of brushes.

 

[James1979]

Hilti HIT use to be good. Dunno if you can still get it. I last used the Screwfix own brand when I was working near one and need it there and then. Was alright for the money to be honest. Did all the holes, then kind of write the rest of the tube off as it blocks up

 

[Feet 'n Inches]

The frame base.

Its going to replace the rubbish wooden shelf, but be longer and higher.

Some welds. I bevelled every edge and welded both sides.

Did you use an angle grinder or burning gear to back-cut your cross pieces? Often tricky to weld those joints with stick successfully and make them look good, and when building conveyors, I had plenty of practice!

 

[ChrisBailey]

I used a 1mm disc on an angle grinder. I migged the frame together.

Can you not use a regular caulking gun for the resin cartridges?

 

[James1979]

Some are a twin cartridge affair that mixes in the nozzle. Like a double barrelled caulk gun.

The single cartridge versions also mix in the nozzle but they are fatter and won't go in a regular gun. Need a bit more grunt to get it flowing too. I modified a regular gun the first time I tried and the handle folded on first pull

 

[Dcal]

Never used the slow cure stuff, normally need to get brackets etc up and move on. Useful to know though. Fischer I normally use. Have the Fischer gun, blower and a set of brushes.

Fisher have one as well it's great stuff.
Same slow cure which isn’t ideal if you need to get something finished but it has its uses

Another advantage with the pure epoxies is they don't mind the wet and will stick to wet diamond cut holes.
I've used Hilti RE500 with diamond cored holes underwater with divers. Doesn’t help the guns but sometimes it's the only way.


Hilti hit goes from RE150 to RE500 and get stronger and more expensive as you go up the numbers.
It's expensive but Hilti has brilliant technical support and even have an app of sizing and estimating the amount you need.

Everyone just uses the Hlti software and then buys something else, unless it safety critical then stick with what the structural engineer says which will probably be Hilti because they do most of the work for them.

Any of the chemical anchors will be stronger than brick or block work and most are stronger than normal concrete.