I have a 47 Kg Flo-Gas propane tank for conversion to an air receiver, at the moment it's just got a tap on it, would the hole in the tap be smaller or hopefully larger than 1/4 pipe thread normally provide I believe that 1/4 BSP connectors are a restriction for a cut off tool.
- Thread starter caprinut
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zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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I've removed those valves before, carefully cut the shroud off at the top of it's legs (just above the welds), find a bar and weld it across the base ring, ratchet strap the cylinder down to something solid, then use a big pair of stillsons and a scaffold tube.
Its a long winded process, they are in there right tight.
Its a long winded process, they are in there right tight.
Don't want cut the shroud off, I intend to turn it upside down in a frame the shroud provides a firm level base to weld to. If the valve is 1/2BSP then I can just step it down to 15mm copper pipe with drain cock up to the regulator complex without having to try get the tap out. One youtuber has it ratchet strapped to a tree and still had trouble.
Bert
Bert
Morrisman
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Could you drill and tap onto the side of it, and screw a decent sized fitting in, but leave the valve at the bottom for a condensate drain?
I'd imagine there is enough thickness to get some thread into. Or maybe certain areas are thicker.
I'd imagine there is enough thickness to get some thread into. Or maybe certain areas are thicker.
CompoSimmonite
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I'd leave the tap on and buy / make an adapter that screws straight in.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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That's how I've done it in the past.
that's what I was thinking... stick it upside down drill and then weld a female thread into the top (that was the bottom) leave the old tap as a drain... even better if you leave the tap open, fit an extension so it's easy to get to and then put a tap on the end of that :-)
Kram
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Best not welding directly to pressure vessels, particually when they may still contain gas.
On mine, the wall thickness of the end dome and sides is not enough to take a thread, about 3mm wall, its why they weld in a thick chunk about 5/8" thick on the valve end.
For the use as an air reciever Id want to be flushing it out with water a couple times to get residual gas out. Gas + hot compressed air = boom.
On mine, the wall thickness of the end dome and sides is not enough to take a thread, about 3mm wall, its why they weld in a thick chunk about 5/8" thick on the valve end.
For the use as an air reciever Id want to be flushing it out with water a couple times to get residual gas out. Gas + hot compressed air = boom.
Opened the tap on the top and gas came whooshing for about 5 minutes before it started to diminish left it open for 2 nights then turned it upside down, about 3/4 of a liter of water came out left it open for another 2 nights knowing that propane is heavier than air and should vacate. Can't smell anywhere near the strength as when I first opened it, if at all, so I think I can assume the gas has gone, not too worried about water having been in there, the gas would have broken down very slowly with any air in the tank and prevented rust, but I have got to take the tap off to inspect it with a camera.
Bert
Bert
This is easy once the valve is out - just stick a hose in it.
premmington
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Caution: How much pressure are you putting it ~"the air reciever made for fluid at a lower stored pressure"
brightspark
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just get a length of solid bar and put it through the shroud up against the side of the threaded brass outlet and give it 3 good bats with a decent size hammer and it will just unscrew. ist i did was with stilsons and hammer it was a pig but second with bar was instant
I have the tap off, took the table halves of a workmate dropped the cylinder on that with it tightened just locate the cylinder two rachet straps wound around it and the workmate, had my oppo stand on the step, put a 16" adjustable wrench with 5' long pipe on the square nut and heaved.
Bert
Bert
