mark roberts
Member
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- durham uk
I saw this on facebook, it was too far to view it but I took a chance anyway. It came out of gems sensors in basingstoke. It has loads of collets and chucks. Dont know if I did good but it was £750
- Thread starter mark roberts
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dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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You did really well except originally is was up for £500 !
pressbrake1
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You stole it! I’m jealous as I want one to rebuild
If it is worn I can regrind and scrape it to as new tolerance and it will then be worth quite a lot as super precision manual lathes are still used in aerospace , nuclear and medical
If it is worn I can regrind and scrape it to as new tolerance and it will then be worth quite a lot as super precision manual lathes are still used in aerospace , nuclear and medical
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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When I was last at Slideway Services, someone was finishing the wiring to a toolroom Hardinge. He said the rebuild was over 10k. It was gleaming
pressbrake1
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Zmt in Devon would charge £40k for a proper factory rebuild, which would mean no original wear parts like bearings or screws.
I’d periphery grind the bed to give oe finish and accuracy
mark roberts
Member
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- durham uk
They had two of them one was £500 and then this one which had more accessories
Pete.
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You probably got the better deal then because the bits and bobs are daft money.
mark roberts
Member
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- durham uk
Had a bit play today, that is some boy control panel. I'm running this from a static converter so it took a bit fiddling to get the correct sequence for the legs. Got it going and its humming in low speed, I maybe had the static set too high. The high speed was quiet. The variable speed worked well. The carriage feed didn't work, not sure if its powered by the leadscrew or the motor bolted to it.
Started degreasing it a bit and lubing it, the carriage gets tight past halfway of the bed. I then went to start it again and nadda, the main contacter is pulling in and when you select a speed its pulling that contacter but no spinny of motor. Can of worms time.
On a brighter note theres plenty of collets and chucks and jacobs chucks
Started degreasing it a bit and lubing it, the carriage gets tight past halfway of the bed. I then went to start it again and nadda, the main contacter is pulling in and when you select a speed its pulling that contacter but no spinny of motor. Can of worms time.
On a brighter note theres plenty of collets and chucks and jacobs chucks
Erie Fred
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But there is also another very much longer one. It's for parts that are too long to set only inside the collet, need more room out the back.
I made my own, using rubber washers to squeeze out into the drawtube to hold it in place, and then a threaded rod for fine tuning the actual stop position.
mark roberts
Member
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- 135
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- durham uk
I think the hardinge was a bit upset at the quality of my 3 phase, I tried it again but this time left another machine idling and it worked.
The feed still does not. Anyone clued up on such things, its way above my pay grade and comprehension.
The feed still does not. Anyone clued up on such things, its way above my pay grade and comprehension.
Agroshield
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I do not know if it would be any use, but there is a Hardinge group at groups.io
groups.io
You can browse the old messages without joining the group, so it might give you a flavour of whether it would be helpful to you.
There is also a Hardinge sub-forum at Practical Machinist.
There is also lots of Hardinge info. at vintagemachinery.org
Edit:
Quickly reading around the issue, I think the feed motor is DC. Eight out of the nine things on the circuit board you show are diodes, so that might be some kind of rectumfrier and the circular part a rheostat.
Topics
groups.io
You can browse the old messages without joining the group, so it might give you a flavour of whether it would be helpful to you.
There is also a Hardinge sub-forum at Practical Machinist.
Bridgeport / Hardinge and USA Light Iron
Discuss Bridgeport, Hardinge machines plus other 'light' USA manual machines >> moderator 4GSR
www.practicalmachinist.com
There is also lots of Hardinge info. at vintagemachinery.org
Edit:
Quickly reading around the issue, I think the feed motor is DC. Eight out of the nine things on the circuit board you show are diodes, so that might be some kind of rectumfrier and the circular part a rheostat.
Pete.
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- Kent, UK
The circular thing is a variac it does the speed control. the 8 diodes are bridge rectifiers for field and armature DC.
This is a circuit diagram by Bill Todd from Practical Machinist:
And this is how I wired mine up which does not have a fast/slow switch nor braking.
This is a circuit diagram by Bill Todd from Practical Machinist:
And this is how I wired mine up which does not have a fast/slow switch nor braking.
mark roberts
Member
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- 135
- Location
- durham uk
Many thanks for that Pete, I opened it up to see if there was anything obvious that looked blown. Other than that I'm clueless. I also took the motor off the saddle. It doesn't turn by hand if that has any bearing on things.
Pete.
Member
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- Kent, UK
The motor will not turn by hand it's on a high-reduction worm.
Start by checking if there is power comng from the cabinet to your control box. It's mains power so use a tester and go careful.
And put up a high-res square-on photo of the cabinet. It'll help us to help you with your diagnostics.
BTW the problem with it not liking your 3 phase out of the converter might be due to having the control gear fed from the wild leg. Running another machine probably evens out the voltages to a tolerable level. You might be able to fix this by tracing the incoming phases and making sure the wild leg is only going to the motor.
Start by checking if there is power comng from the cabinet to your control box. It's mains power so use a tester and go careful.
And put up a high-res square-on photo of the cabinet. It'll help us to help you with your diagnostics.
BTW the problem with it not liking your 3 phase out of the converter might be due to having the control gear fed from the wild leg. Running another machine probably evens out the voltages to a tolerable level. You might be able to fix this by tracing the incoming phases and making sure the wild leg is only going to the motor.
