hi i have a sip 150 turbo which a friend of mine owned, it is about 10years old some of the wires have been undone from the transformer and the voltage control switch, there are a couple of black wires off also. has anyone got a picture of the inside of this welder to make it easier for me to copy many thanks
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Hi Sam
Ive got a couple of sip 150's that are 10+ years old , a 150 autoplus and a 150DP .
I think they are pretty similar inside, mine have a wire speed control dial and push buttons for amps - 3 white and a black . black for min/max and white one's for min/med/hi
If that sounds familiar i can get some images up tomorrow.
Ive got a couple of sip 150's that are 10+ years old , a 150 autoplus and a 150DP .
I think they are pretty similar inside, mine have a wire speed control dial and push buttons for amps - 3 white and a black . black for min/max and white one's for min/med/hi
If that sounds familiar i can get some images up tomorrow.
)
hi bash 25 enclosed thanks for posting pics. i have enclosed a picture of mig it is a bit different. the wires i am now not sure of are, from the base of the transformer there is a black wire does this go to the t on the pcb.? and also on the 6 current dial i have a terminal marked R/L1 do the green and the blue wire go to the same place. also i have found out that it just packed up with no notice if the pcb has gone does anyone know is there a simple way of testing this
sam3
I dont recall seeing a black wire from the base of the tranformer - pretty much all the wires in the machine are red .. with a couple of blue and green chucked in for good measure ..
Ill have another look now i have a idea what you need to know , but im no electrician and with mine having push buttons and yours a dial - i might not be able to help much.
I dont recall seeing a black wire from the base of the tranformer - pretty much all the wires in the machine are red .. with a couple of blue and green chucked in for good measure ..
Ill have another look now i have a idea what you need to know , but im no electrician and with mine having push buttons and yours a dial - i might not be able to help much.
chevyman_de
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Sam, I can't see any voltage control switch at all; just a hole in the front panel! Without the switch no wiring diagramm in the world will bring your welder back to life. I guess the switch failed and a replacement was either too expensive (compared to the price of the complete welder) or no longer available.
Whenever a unit is cannibalized it's usually for a reason. So don't expect an easy or economical repair. Sorry.
Whenever a unit is cannibalized it's usually for a reason. So don't expect an easy or economical repair. Sorry.
hi enclosed photo of rotary switch, one side has current control wires and on the other side there is only one terminal marked R/L1 it looks like the two wires go to this terminal but i am not sure. also i took the pcb board off and i can see there is burning in the pcb on the mains side. any one got any info as to where i can get another board. the welder is complete and i have been told it has been very reliable until it just stoped working. the chap took the transformer out to have it tested hence the wires off, he has bought new welder but this one is to good to dump especially if it is the pcb control board
Sip 150
I have a unit that looks identical to yours and could take the covers of and take some pics in the next couple of days. I also recollect that when I first got it I drew up the circuit diagram as an aid if it ever went wrong, but where I put it for safe keeping is illuding me at the moment. I will search. Let me know if you would like me to proceed.
Cheers
Vicg
I have a unit that looks identical to yours and could take the covers of and take some pics in the next couple of days. I also recollect that when I first got it I drew up the circuit diagram as an aid if it ever went wrong, but where I put it for safe keeping is illuding me at the moment. I will search. Let me know if you would like me to proceed.
Cheers
Vicg
chevyman_de
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Well, on a basic MIG welder without any bells and whistles (no spot welding timer, no burn back adjustment...) the PCB will only adjust wire drive speed. So basically any PCB from a welder with a wire drive of similar voltage and amperage could do the job. If I read it correctly, the motor is 24 volts. Before investing time or/and money in a new PCB you should check the wire drive. Is the motor running smoothly? A check with 12 volts from a car battery or its charger will be ok. Without any load (read wire to feed) the motor should turn smoothly, even at half its voltage. Let it run for a minute, the motor shouldn't get hot during this little test.
If it does not pass with flying colors, chances are the motor/gearbox is the reason for the burned PCB and in this case I would most likely cancel the repair. A new wire drive and a new PCB is not economical.
Btw, the motor looks pretty decent. I don't really expect a faulty one, just as a precaution...
If it does not pass with flying colors, chances are the motor/gearbox is the reason for the burned PCB and in this case I would most likely cancel the repair. A new wire drive and a new PCB is not economical.
Btw, the motor looks pretty decent. I don't really expect a faulty one, just as a precaution...
Hi Sam
Well I got out and took some pics today which I will try to attach! I have also drawn up the connection diagram for the currrent switch but this is a .pdf file and the system won't let me attach that! However photo 7 shows most of this. There is a bundle of brown wires coming from the bottom of the main transformer, six of them should have little labels on them numbered 1 to 6. The pic shows the connections for 1, 2 and 3 4 is the wire visible below 3, 6 is below 2 and 5 is below 1. The remaining wire in this bundle goes to the bottom blade connector on the pcb. Hope this is clear enough.
The pcb contains the relay which controls the supply to the main transformer and, I suspect, this is the item which has burnt out - it appears to be a common problem - the bigger TopMigs use a separate relay mounted down by the transformer. I can't read the details of my relay without getting the pcb out of the case but probably could do that if you want the info.
Cheers
Vic
Well I got out and took some pics today which I will try to attach! I have also drawn up the connection diagram for the currrent switch but this is a .pdf file and the system won't let me attach that! However photo 7 shows most of this. There is a bundle of brown wires coming from the bottom of the main transformer, six of them should have little labels on them numbered 1 to 6. The pic shows the connections for 1, 2 and 3 4 is the wire visible below 3, 6 is below 2 and 5 is below 1. The remaining wire in this bundle goes to the bottom blade connector on the pcb. Hope this is clear enough.
The pcb contains the relay which controls the supply to the main transformer and, I suspect, this is the item which has burnt out - it appears to be a common problem - the bigger TopMigs use a separate relay mounted down by the transformer. I can't read the details of my relay without getting the pcb out of the case but probably could do that if you want the info.
Cheers
Vic
