How Big a MIG on Single Phase?

[Grobes]

LOL you like that then ?

Its been done.

 

[madkayaker]

ive seen it done but thats an easy way to kill yourself or burn the place down

 

[Drains]

A pal of mine had a generator for when the mains dropped out in his middle of the boondocks house. His wiring method was novel - he put a plug on the end of the genny outlet, and plugged it into a house socket, once he'd thrown off the main breaker to the house.

Asking for it!

Mannybee - did you get brightsparks post re the cooker? The wiring will be more than 13A, but the squarepin socket at the cooker is, and will only ever be, 13A. You can fit a blue 16A wall-socket at the cooker, or hardwire a line out to where the welder is from there (your garage?) and fit a 16A MCB/RCD box there too.

Brightspark, MK, is that right?

 

[madkayaker]

you can wire from the cooker point and fit a RCD and 16A MCB. but as the cooker is in the kitchen (normally) the work falls under the remit of part P and the work would need to be done by a part P compitant persion to comply with building regs

 

[brightspark]

u can hard wire out from cooker point in 6.0mm cable to a rcd.mcb distribution board in garage then to a 16 amp plug . or wire out of cooker unit to garage in 2.5mm cable through a double pole rccd then into the socket and downrate the fuse in main fusebox to a 16 amp instead of a 30 i wouldnt wurry about being registered it makes no odds if u are doing it yourself as long as the jobs done correctly thats just to frighten people off . if u get a firm in thats not registered and there caught doing dodgy work there in 4 the highjump . but u can please yourself what u do in your own home and theres nothing anyone can do about it but i stress the job must be right and comply

 

[mannybee]

the socket on your cooker unit is 13 amp the sockets round your house are 13 amp they will both be fed of a 30 amp supply if the house sockets are on a ring main .if u intend just plugging in a 13 amp plug in to a socket the 30 amp fuse back at board is ok. if u intend to conect a 16 supply to welder socket back into the rear of cooker unit the board fuse needs down rating to 16 amp

Yeah cheers , that makes sense, ill stick to a welder thats rated up to 13A that way im going to be ok, ill never use it on max so should be cool. Cheers for the replies guys

 

[Drains]

Mannybee, there are plenty of weld sets of sub 200a output which officially need over 13a, but will happily run on 13a most of the day. I used to have a Clarke 185 (i think) which only occasionally blew a 13a fuse on full whack for more than a few minutes. A smaller machine would have been rubbish for the jobs I had.

 

[Grobes]

I bought my welder specifically because it runs on a 13a supply. Its a buttersuk weldwizard 180 and will comfortably weld on full power (decent amount of grunt too). Been welding 16mm bar to 5mm angle (approx 20 second bursts) with no problem, not sure how long it would weld continuously on this setting but dont want to purposely toast anything. Eats through 2mm all day and is really smooth.

Its a bit 'lightweight' in design so im building a trolley to slot it into and will sometime have a couple of strengthening panels fabricated. The unit itself is light enough to lift comfortably in and out of the car. Got a pub bottle full of argoshield and a standard euro torch from a mate (the small torch supplied is ok but im used to the industrial torches).

The only issue i had was it tripping my 16a garage mcb so electrician has swapped it for a 32a as it worked fine from the house ring. it tripped this new 32a initially so we tried it with an 8m extension lead and it doesnt skip a beat (garage cu is 30cm from the plug socket). Anybody else had this anomole ???.

 

[brightspark]

I bought my welder specifically because it runs on a 13a supply. Its a buttersuk weldwizard 180 and will comfortably weld on full power (decent amount of grunt too). Been welding 16mm bar to 5mm angle (approx 20 second bursts) with no problem, not sure how long it would weld continuously on this setting but dont want to purposely toast anything. Eats through 2mm all day and is really smooth.

Its a bit 'lightweight' in design so im building a trolley to slot it into and will sometime have a couple of strengthening panels fabricated. The unit itself is light enough to lift comfortably in and out of the car. Got a pub bottle full of argoshield and a standard euro torch from a mate (the small torch supplied is ok but im used to the industrial torches).

The only issue i had was it tripping my 16a garage mcb so electrician has swapped it for a 32a as it worked fine from the house ring. it tripped this new 32a initially so we tried it with an 8m extension lead and it doesnt skip a beat (garage cu is 30cm from the plug socket). Anybody else had this anomole ???.

it was probably a b type breaker should have changed it to a / d type 20 amp

 

[Grobes]

It is a type B (as is the new 32a) but i couldnt find any others for the cu. Its a volex one from screwfix with two mcb's and an rcd.

Does anywhere stock Type C/D mcb's for this unit ??

 

[brightspark]

It is a type B (as is the new 32a) but i couldnt find any others for the cu. Its a volex one from screwfix with two mcb's and an rcd.

Does anywhere stock Type C/D mcb's for this unit ??

probably sh i ,..,/.,/tty electrics
oops city electrics hager are the same fit as volex