How to get this out of this?

[julianf]

So, I have asked on some landrover places but not really got much of a solution other than "whack it", which I've done.

Photo -

So this (above) is the issue.

You're supposed to knock them round and then gradually lever them out. This one isn't moving at all.

Here is the part -

So the rim on the other end to the cog is the bit I've been destroying in the first photo.

It's basically a steel cylinder stuck into an alloy hole.

I'm currently wondering about tig'ing a bit of box across the top and trying to spin it like that. My prior experience is that the weld heat normally breaks the corrosion joint anyway, and I'd choose Tig rather than a blow torch as its way more directed.

But I figured I'd ask in case anyone has a better idea?

Can't really get to the other side properly. It's a drive coming in at right angles to a shaft I the center of a casting. So to knock it out from the back you would kind of have to go in and round, which isn't exactly convenient.

Speedo drive on an lt230 if that makes any difference, but for the sake of this post, it's just a lump of steel stuck in a lump of alloy.

Thank you.

 

[knighty]

I'd cut/grind/bash the cable connection in the middle down a bit, jam a big bit of threaded bar into it and then weld that in

what way you get the heat into then can screw a nut down the bar against a stop to pull it out


if you tig a big of box to it you won't have much surface to tig too, so something round is much better

I mig that stuff (can't tig anyway) and make as big of a weld pool as possible, to get plenty of heat into it.... normally weld on a really big nut, or an old knackered ring spanner (but I think threaded rod will be better for you here)

 

[zzr1200]

I'd weld a length of studding inline with the speedo drive then find a heavy weight to slide over the studding, put a nut on it, then you have a slide hammer, plus heat the case around the drive unit with a blowlamp, every little bit helps...

 

[Guzrik]

I'd weld a length of studding inline with the speedo drive then find a heavy weight to slide over the studding, put a nut on it, then you have a slide hammer, plus heat the case around the drive unit with a blowlamp, every little bit helps...

+1
And I would start off with a week of penetrating oil.

 

[bricol]

My first attempt would be to heat the casing all around it - the aluminium will expand much more than the steel - do that a few times, maybe applying penetrating fluid (not WD40!) as soon as it will stay there without burning.

 

[addjunkie]

Weld the stud bar on as described, make jack, put under tension, then heat the ali casting around the outside. As the ali will expand quicker than the steel, it should break the bond. Jackout

 

[Dcal]

I'd plug weld a washer that's bigger than the outside of the drive, to the drive.
MIG, TIG, ARC, I don't think it will matter that much
Let it cool then weld a bolt or a studbar for a slide hammer to the washer and drive.
Let it cool a bit (so there is still some heat in the alloy) and slide hammer it out.

 

[sako243]

Is this a strip down and rebuild?

Can't you remove the output shaft and handbrake housing to gain access to the inside?

If you wanted heat I'd be applying it to the casing not the drive gear anyway to try and get that to expand a little. I've had decent success with on similar with applying heat, that makes a tiny gap through which duck oil or some similar penetrating fluid can get in then leave for a bit, rinse and repeat.

What if anything do you want to keep?

Rather than a flat bar how a out welding a 1/2" socket to it that way you're not going to get stuck as you start and rotate it, you could put an impact onto it as well then.

 

[Brad93]

Studding for a slide hammer as said above.

 

[julianf]

A couple of points -

I want to keep as much of the rest of it as I can. I need to use the casting and the stuff inside it. The speedo drive and it's "holder" (the steel bit that in dealing with) are waste.

I've been applying penetrating for some time now.

The "standard" way to remove these seems to be to rotate them to free them before they lift. They're not threaded. Maybe a slide hammer would do just as well though.

So far as I'm aware, access to the rear isn't especially useful.

 

[James1979]

50/50 acetone and ATF mix. Pour it in. Put it in a plastic bag. Let it fester.

Repeat till you run out of time.

Slide hammer it out as above.

Unless you have a hollow ram on an enerpac then use that

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Take the output housing off and get it on the bench. Mine was a pig to get out too. Remember to replace it before filling with oil otherwise you end up with a puddle. Don’t ask me how I know

 

[Mikes]

Weld a bolt head downwards onto it. make a strong, suitably sized 'bridge' to place over it and wind it out on a nut.

 

[Neilj]

I know this is a welding forum but if the middle bit is sacrificial, then how about drilling out the central hollow shaft and enlarging the hole in the cylinder bit so you can tap it. Then screw in a length of threaded rod / bolt and use that with a socket / big washer and nut to pull it out? After much soaking with your chosen penetrating oil of course.

 

[James1979]

Found this. There’s no special tool unfortunately. ‘Just’ lever it out, it says.

Might be useful to you though….

https://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender-90-110-workshop-manual-3.pdf

 

[reb78]

@julianf I think your original suggestion of welding a bar on to get some leverage to twist it will work - afterall, you only need to wiggle it back and forth to break any corrosion holding it in place to be able to ease it out carefully. If you welded some 10mm hollow box section on (or similar), the inside of the box could also give you something to stick a bar up for some leverage against the case. They are a snug fit from memory - last one i put in a transfer box needed to be tapped into place gently.

 

[julianf]

Amazingly -

Ive actually been going at it the best part of a week now but maybe i was just more persuasive this morning?

(you can see a fair bit of the rim is now gone!)


Im not sure, but it almost looks like the tooth angle is different on the one removed than the one im sticking back in there -

Im hoping its just the photo (i didnt spot it when i was with the actual parts)

The black one is a discovery, and the green/blue one is a defender one.

Im not too fussed about what the speedo actually reads, as you get used to them and your brain applies the offset, but i just want the cable to meet up with the drive (disco and defender square sockets on the end of the drive are slightly different diameters, hence swapping them over)


Thanks to all - didnt even need to get the sparkler on it in the end!

 

[reb78]

Amazingly -

View attachment 391880


Ive actually been going at it the best part of a week now but maybe i was just more persuasive this morning?

(you can see a fair bit of the rim is now gone!)


Im not sure, but it almost looks like the tooth angle is different on the one removed than the one im sticking back in there -

View attachment 391884

Im hoping its just the photo (i didnt spot it when i was with the actual parts)

The black one is a discovery, and the green/blue one is a defender one.

Im not too fussed about what the speedo actually reads, as you get used to them and your brain applies the offset, but i just want the cable to meet up with the drive (disco and defender square sockets on the end of the drive are slightly different diameters, hence swapping them over)


Thanks to all - didnt even need to get the sparkler on it in the end!

if its a 1.2 box just use the black one in the other housing perhaps? Should read roughly right then?

 

[julianf]

if its a 1.2 box just use the black one in the other housing perhaps? Should read roughly right then?

The black one is the one out of the disco. Disco uses an electronic thing strapped to the top of the black shaft, and then electronic speedo.

The square hole on the top of the disco one (that the electronic thing slots into) is slightly smaller than the defender drive cable.

So you cant use it with a defender cable.... which was my whole motivation for swapping them over.

Im not bothered by the reading being perfect, but i wanted "a" reading! : )

 

[Neilj]

The black one has more teeth that the green/blue one. You'll probably find the mating gear has a different tooth count as well, so they're unlikely to be interchangeable. Common thing where different final drive ratios / tyre sizes are concerned.