Hydronave help needed ££££ happy to pay a engineer

[ByGonzo]

Hi
i'm new in to the form! i do have one hv2 Hydrovane, that i bought almost a year ago, and not sure what's wrong with it.
I did separated the pump from the motor to see if they run freely and they do but the fuse on the plug keep blowing, i use a 16am converter cable and up the fuse to 16 but now the fuse board switch trigged
is the 2.2kk (2200w % 240 = 9.16Amp ) ia a 13 amp fuse not sufficient ???? or how i can test the component or if there is a compressor mechanic or engineer in camberley area GU15 surrey i'm happy to pay for the service
Thanks

 

[sako243]

Do you have a slow blow / motor fuse in there or the usual fast ones?

Probably want a T rated slow blow if you're running it off a 13A plug because as the motor starts it'll pull a lot more than its normal operating current.

 

[ByGonzo]

Do you have a slow blow / motor fuse in there or the usual fast ones?

Probably want a T rated slow blow if you're running it off a 13A plug because as the motor starts it'll pull a lot more than its normal operating current.

im not 100% sure about that . im not familiar with the time of thermo-mechanic switches ,so no idea what to do lol . if anyone is local , happy to pay as long is not a million dollars

 

[Blobber]

I dont think you will start that on a 13A plug fuse, probably need a 20A supply at least with C curve breaker

 

[ByGonzo]

yes it is connected to a 16am breaker !!!! do i need to connectto a 20 + bracket ???

 

[eddie49]

Do you have a slow blow / motor fuse in there or the usual fast ones?

Probably want a T rated slow blow if you're running it off a 13A plug because as the motor starts it'll pull a lot more than its normal operating current.

This refers to the fuse or circuit breaker in your Consumer Unit ( domestic supply fuseboard ), not in the Hydrovane.

 

[sako243]

but the fuse on the plug keep blowing

I was referring to this. What plug are you on about? 16A and 32A commando plugs don't have the provision for fuses so that implies you're running it off a 13A 3 pin plug. Look at the motor plate and it says 12.3A at 230V. It's not clear if that's peak or RMS either way a small surge and you're over 13A fairly quickly.

Glass fuses like those in the plug also have slow and fast ratings, the ones you normally get are F (fast). If you've got an inductive load on like a motor on the end you can get T profile fuses that are slower blowing so handle start up surges better.

Regardless I think this should be going through a minimum of a B or C curve 16A breaker via a commando plug if you want (ideally C curve). With all the cheap knockoffs these days it wouldn't surprise me if a 13A 3 pin plug melts with 13A continuous in it even thought they're meant to handle much more.

 

[ByGonzo]

Thanks guys . ill get the right plug tomorrow and try it again ( big blue plug) i will wire it to a 20 am breaker and see it that works . i got this to power my pneumatic brake press but I've been using my small compressor so far
Cheers

 

[Pete.]

Thanks guys . ill get the right plug tomorrow and try it again ( big blue plug) i will wire it to a 20 am breaker and see it that works . i got this to power my pneumatic brake press but I've been using my small compressor so far
Cheers

The power of the breaker might not your issue. A type a or B will be too fast to react to the startup current. You will probably need a Type C or even a Type D (motor rated) breaker. These are more tolerant of startup currents so will be less prone to tripping.

However, are you sure that the compressor is not trying to start under load? Drain the tank fully down and see if it will start then.

 

[ByGonzo]

The power of the breaker might not your issue. A type a or B will be too fast to react to the startup current. You will probably need a Type C or even a Type D (motor rated) breaker. These are more tolerant of startup currents so will be less prone to tripping.

However, are you sure that the compressor is not trying to start under load? Drain the tank fully down and see if it will start then.

i think that the problem started long before me haven it . the fan for the oil cooler was touching the rear housing, i sort it out now and everything it morning freely , I've seen it working before being so it must be my breaker . i will do a bit more of investigation as i dint know you can get different type of brake , apart from mcb or rcbo .

 

[ByGonzo]

I found this info the idiot know ​

​

Basic applications of an MCB​

The essential distinction between Type B, C or D devices is based on their ability to handle surge currents without tripping. These are, typically, inrush currents associated with reactive loads such as lighting, or loads containing motors or battery charging equipment.

Types B, C & D are recognised within BS 7671 and can be broadly categorised as follows:

• Type B devices are generally suitable for domestic applications. They may also be used in light commercial applications where switching surges are low or non-existent.
• Type C devices are the normal choice for commercial and industrial applications where some degree of electrical inrush is expected.
• Type D devices have more limited applications, normally in industrial use where high inrush currents may be expected. Examples include large battery charging systems, motors, transformers, X-ray machines and some types of lighting.

The classification of Types B, C or D is based on the fault current rating at which instantaneous operation occurs (typically less than 100ms) to protect against short-circuits. It is important that equipment having high inrush currents should not cause the circuit-breaker to trip unnecessarily, and yet the device should trip in the event of a short-circuit current that could damage the circuit cables.

Tripping characteristics:

• Type B devices are designed to trip at fault currents of 3-5 times rated current (In). For example a 10A device will trip at 30-50A.
• Type C devices are designed to trip at 5-10 times In (50-100A for a 10A device).
• Type D devices are designed to trip at 10-20 times In (100-200A for a 10A device).

Normal cable ratings relate to continuous service under specified installation conditions. Cables will, of course, carry higher currents for a short time without suffering permanent damage.

As well as protecting cables against the effects of overloads and short circuits, MCBs can also be legitimately used to provide protection against earth faults and protect against the effects of electric shock, on both fixed and portable equipment. However, the earthing arrangement and total earth loop impedance (Zs) value of the circuit will dictate whether an MCB is able to provide a suitable disconnection time.

 

[Hopefuldave]

I have a type D in the Shed Of Danger consumer unit, the feed to my phase converter goes into a big old oil-cooled welder rewound as isolating transformer to get it up to 415v for the big toys, monstrous inrush current - the trip current listed above is the instantaneous magnetic trip (usually happens at switch-on), not the "average" current, which is still going to be e.g. 20A but trips thermally and has a delay while it heats (second or less, IIRC). My compressor's a bit less hungry and runs on a C.
I'm in Camberley too, Hi Neighbour!
CEF off Frimley Road (near the dump) will probably have the breaker you need, if poss let them know what make the board it's in is, as the busbars don't always line up if you swap makers! The existing breaker should have maker's name on it, in a perfect world get one from the same and you'll know the busbar/breaker connection's right.

 

[brightspark]

The power of the breaker might not your issue. A type a or B will be too fast to react to the startup current. You will probably need a Type C or even a Type D (motor rated) breaker. These are more tolerant of startup currents so will be less prone to tripping.

However, are you sure that the compressor is not trying to start under load? Drain the tank fully down and see if it will start then.

dont use a d type use maximum c type it will be sufficient . d type trip at 10 to 14 times the maximum current of motor a 3hp motor runs around 12 amp flc.i clocked mine starting current at 55 amps

 

[ByGonzo]

I have a type D in the Shed Of Danger consumer unit, the feed to my phase converter goes into a big old oil-cooled welder rewound as isolating transformer to get it up to 415v for the big toys, monstrous inrush current - the trip current listed above is the instantaneous magnetic trip (usually happens at switch-on), not the "average" current, which is still going to be e.g. 20A but trips thermally and has a delay while it heats (second or less, IIRC). My compressor's a bit less hungry and runs on a C.
I'm in Camberley too, Hi Neighbour!
CEF off Frimley Road (near the dump) will probably have the breaker you need, if poss let them know what make the board it's in is, as the busbars don't always line up if you swap makers! The existing breaker should have maker's name on it, in a perfect world get one from the same and you'll know the busbar/breaker connection's right.

COOL!!!!!! i fabricate BBQ and Grills Argentine style on weekends and week days i run a computer repair in camberley High street - (apple-bay )

 

[ByGonzo]

dont use a d type use maximum c type it will be sufficient . d type trip at 10 to 14 times the maximum current of motor a 3hp motor runs around 12 amp flc.i clocked mine starting current at 55 amps

wow 55 that's hungry for power on star

 

[brightspark]

wow 55 that's hungry for power on star

pretty much standard starting current on a single phase 3 hp motor