HydroVane Servicing, Cleaning.

[Jaeger_S2k]

Have opened the HydroVane and would appreciate advice on cleaning some parts what to use and fluids recommended.

The oil that's come out looks in good clean (green, it's colour) condition no noticeable fragments or foreign bodies (need a filler plug, if anyone has one spare)?

There are a few pictures of the parts in the HydroVane album please have a look and let me know if there's anything looking damaged worn.
My inexperienced eye hasn't spotted anything that looks like danage or wear, but I've never seen a new one close up!

There's surface corrosion on some ally (I think) parts ...

What should I clean this with?

Some contact wear on this drive fin...

Is this a problem/issue?

What do you clean this with?

Here's the filter as it looked after draining the oil and breaking open, looks like the internals are not generating any floaters and he oil is running clean.

What other parts would you need to see?

I have an inverter and will be able to connect it up soon.

As always thanks in advance.

 

[Jaeger_S2k]

Would a general dowse with Meths, Petrol or Wht Spirits basically anything with high vaporous rate and a fine tooth brush or wire brush?

 

[Mikey D]

is the rubber 'spider' (cush drive) in good condition ,seeing as there is some wear on the aluminium part of the coupling >??

cheers mike

 

[Jaeger_S2k]

Hi Mikey,
Thanks for the response.

The Spider Crush Drive (I should have taken a pic of, so I just did) looks in tip top condition.

Side 1

Side 2

Profile

 

[Gary900r]

The parts in pics1-3 I would just knock the worst of the corrosion off with a wire brush.
Pics 4 & 5 use a degreaser to remove any oily muck then when the machine is rebuilt use a airgun to blow out any dry dust.
Unless you have a service kit and a top up kit dont undo any of the cap head screws in picture 6. They hold the main (wearing) parts together and there are various gaskets and seals which may split when the screws are undone. Is the drive spider still flexible.
There should not be any contact wear on the drive coupling as the metal parts should not touch. The spider cushions the coupling and is the only part of the drive that should wear.
The green oil is several years old. From time to time Hydrovane change the colour of their 2000hr oil.The green colour has not been around for quite a few years. Recently the oil has been a bright red colour but is now a orange/red colour.and branded as Compair Fluidforce 2000.

 

[Jaeger_S2k]

The parts in pics1-3 I would just knock the worst of the corrosion off with a wire brush.

Will do. Ta.

Pics 4 & 5 use a degreaser to remove any oily muck then when the machine is rebuilt use a airgun to blow out any dry dust.

Ok Dokay.

Unless you have a service kit and a top up kit dont undo any of the cap head screws in picture 6. They hold the main (wearing) parts together and there are various gaskets and seals which may split when the screws are undone.

Haven't got a service and top up kit, they are rather expensive. I know, I know but .....

Where is the part that was mentioned 'Fins that wear against casing' if they are worn you can turn the fins over as long as the casing isn't marked?

I suppose I should really open it up and check the wearing parts, if the oils that old then it's probably not been serviced, the kits cost more than the compressor did (well to me that is).
Thanks for that I'll get a litre of oil, any recommends where I can get a filler plug, it appears to be missing.
The spider is very flexible, it could do yoga. What are the 2 logs on every other pair of legs for? locators.

 

[Gary900r]

Where is the part that was mentioned 'Fins that wear against casing' if they are worn you can turn the fins over as long as the casing isn't marked?

They would be the rotor blades. They are deeper inside the machine. If you try to get to them you willprobably damage a gasket and 2 plastic shims.

What are the 2 logs on every other pair of legs for? locators.

All they do is limit the amount of the spider that touches the face of the coupling. The spider will only fit in one way.

I may have a filler plug, i'll let you know later. It will be a bsp thread and I have seen all sorts of plugs used.

I suppose I should really open it up and check the wearing parts, if the oils that old then it's probably not been serviced

Pic 6 shows the oil separator. It appears to be white. They discolour with use. Although the oil is old from your description of the colour it has not been inside for many running hours.
2000hr oil was introduced around 25 years ago. Before then a stright SAE40 oil was used with a 400 hour life.

I would put it back together and run the machine.
Check that it fills the receiver fairy quickly. Check the pump unit vents all its internal air within 2-4 minutes. Check the temperature after 1/2 to 1 hour running. It shoul be around 65c above ambient temperature. If possible check the ruiinig amps.

 

[Jaeger_S2k]

Thanks Gary,
I'll do that and if alls well I treat it to at least a KM51.
I'm sure I'll find a 'bung' for the filler

 

[Gary900r]

Let me know if you want a KM51 I'll do you one at a good price.
But all that is in the kit is the separator element. A air filter(the white foam), bonded seals(for all the variations from over the years) and 3 small o rings.