If you know what your doing (painting)

[rkde]

Hello everyone,

I have read and watch tutorials all over the place and I think I understand how to paint with 2pack and I understand the mixing (I think)

What I would like to do is see it done for real so I can ask the questions. If anyone is going to spray their car and your near the Midlands please can you let me know. This would really help me.

If anyone wants to earn a few bob then I would be willing to contribute to their drinking/car fund - I can't buy experience so this is the next best thing

Thanks.

 

[jaykay]

at this time of year,(cold) not many will be spraying with out a heated booth.
you might try to get a local spray shop to let you watch a job going thru.

 

[Chickenjohn]

If you are using 2-pack, you will need to use a booth anyway and an air fed mask as the isocyanates in 2-pack paint are very poisonous!

If you want to learn how to paint the nest thing to do is enrol on a course, either for painting or a night school in vehicle restoration.

 

[rkde]

Cheers, I have sprayed a car before in cellulose.

I understand the issues with 2 pack and already have a good air fed mask. I am building the spray booth but I will be putting the correct filters in place including a water induced filtering system.

I will talk to the local spray shops though last time most told me where to go I will have a look to see if there are any short courses etc in my area, but if anyone does do any spraying please let me know.

I just want to make sure that I am doing it right when I get to it

 

[Chipper]

If you've got the right kit and heat, grab a spare panel or two and pile in, start colouring in. Strip and go again, etc. This way you can do the whole cycle i.e. strip, primer, flat, colour, polish etc and learn a whole lot more than by watching someone.

edit -posted same time... ignore strip/sand etc if done it before, but still, trying on spare is dirt cheap and a good way to go

 

[brightspark]

if u have sprayed before with celly and had good results spraying 2k is more forgiving and easier to coat . just try a few coats on some scrap material or on 5 gallon drums if anyones thrown any out .there ideal as there allready coated ready for a top coat if im spraying i test spray 1st on the can then when happy with the mix transfer to the job in hand

 

[langy]

When you buy your paint ask for the Data sheet, If they cant supply you the data sheet shop elsewhere.

 

[jaykay]

agree,langy,they have to be able to supply sheets by law.

 

[Chickenjohn]

Spraying 2-pack is simmilar to cellulose, except if you are used to cellulose then you might get more problems with 2K if the booth is not filtered, the air is not warmed (25C) and does not include a bake cycle etc. Cellulose dries very quickly on a warm day and 2K takes longet to set, hence more chance of dust problems, and runs etc on 2K due to the slower hardening time as 2K hardens by a chemical reaction and cellulose by solvent evaporation.

I prefer cellulose for those reasons. The trade likes 2K because it is quick, you need 1/2 or 1/3 of the coats to get the same build for primer and top coat, and an acceptable (to some) gun finish. But a good sprayer using a dark colour could also get a good gun finish in cellulose as well.

 

[the snooper]

2k is just as easy to apply as cellulose and you can spray without heat but its better with it, if you are going to spray without heat get a fast activator.
2k goes tacky in no time at all

if you are building a booth most booths have a whopping 8 to 10 thousand cfm air flow which i doubt you will acheive the reason for this is to pull the paint overspray to the filters.
as well as filters to catch the paint there are also filters for air entering the booth.
if you are going to devise some heating system make sure its outside the booth and only fed by clean air ie no thinners or paint go through the heating process or you may go bang

heated booths are used to speed up the painting process without them a bodyshop wouldnt be able to do enough work each day.

 

[eil]

Spraying 2-pack is simmilar to cellulose, except if you are used to cellulose then you might get more problems with 2K if the booth is not filtered, the air is not warmed (25C) and does not include a bake cycle etc. Cellulose dries very quickly on a warm day and 2K takes longer to set, hence more chance of dust problems, and runs etc on 2K due to the slower hardening time as 2K hardens by a chemical reaction and cellulose by solvent evaporation.

I prefer cellulose for those reasons. The trade likes 2K because it is quick, you need 1/2 or 1/3 of the coats to get the same build for primer and top coat, and an acceptable (to some) gun finish. But a good sprayer using a dark colour could also get a good gun finish in cellulose as well.

Could you explain why you might get more problems with 2K as opposed to cellulose if your booth is not adequately filtered, aside from chucking out iso fumes all over the place does that mean using cellulose you wouldn't need as clean an air intake and exhaust filtration system, also if it isn't 25C you cant spray 2K, but cellulose would be no problem.

 

[Nicolasticity]

Spraying 2-pack is simmilar to cellulose, except if you are used to cellulose then you might get more problems with 2K if the booth is not filtered, the air is not warmed (25C) and does not include a bake cycle etc. Cellulose dries very quickly on a warm day and 2K takes longet to set, hence more chance of dust problems, and runs etc on 2K due to the slower hardening time as 2K hardens by a chemical reaction and cellulose by solvent evaporation.

I prefer cellulose for those reasons. The trade likes 2K because it is quick, you need 1/2 or 1/3 of the coats to get the same build for primer and top coat, and an acceptable (to some) gun finish. But a good sprayer using a dark colour could also get a good gun finish in cellulose as well.

I have been advised to use 2K in fact the guy I spoke with is going to do the job.. but the points I brought up about cellulose were always batted back - such as you can accelerate curing of 2 pack, its more forgiving (as long as you dont get carried away) etc etc. The isocyanate was addressed via the mask and the advice of not having the compressor near the spray area.

 

[jaykay]

cellulose has done a good job for years now(ask henry ford)and it will be dry enough to handle,with over night drying.
2k wins by being able to low bake drying.and it does shine up well.

 

[langy]

There are fast hardeners and extra fast hardeners or in extreme cases Rocket

Spraying 2-pack is simmilar to cellulose, except if you are used to cellulose then you might get more problems with 2K if the booth is not filtered, the air is not warmed (25C) and does not include a bake cycle etc. Cellulose dries very quickly on a warm day and 2K takes longet to set, hence more chance of dust problems, and runs etc on 2K due to the slower hardening time as 2K hardens by a chemical reaction and cellulose by solvent evaporation.

I prefer cellulose for those reasons. The trade likes 2K because it is quick, you need 1/2 or 1/3 of the coats to get the same build for primer and top coat, and an acceptable (to some) gun finish. But a good sprayer using a dark colour could also get a good gun finish in cellulose as well.

 

[rkde]

Thank you for this information. I will work out what CFM I can achieve when I build the booth.

My Main concern is me and ensure I get air, I used to spray acetone without a mask and it brought back my childhood asthma so I know not to be so stupid again, just glad its gone but know that I need to be really careful with 2P.

I think more than spraying technique its the harder which confuses me. The guy in the nearest unit to me sprays 2P openly with no filters or mask (crazy) but he does get an excellent finish with no heat.

Is this the stages for 2P to get a very shiny finish

* high build primer
* base coat
* clear
* wet sand and polish

You don't sand between primer, base, clear on 2P where on cellulose you sand between each coat?

 

[the snooper]

the final product all depends on your prep get the prep right and your there
you will know if your prep is right as there will be no need at all for wet sanding just polish.
the last time you will flat is the primer after that you dont touch anything until it has dried

the mixing ratio for paint & activator is 2 to 1 ie 1 litre of paint / laquer 500ml of activator

 

[rkde]

Thank you.

I only want to do it once, when I sprayed the last car I didn't do too well until I had sprayed it a few times... I will get some spare panels and have it reckless till I get it right

 

[langy]

Yes you sand the primer with a guidecoat, use 600 if solid colour or 800 if clear over base.
Dust the first base coat on and then a couple of good coats, then when base is dry on with the clear, Don't leave the base too long before clearing, some bases have a 24hr window but not all, I usually get it on within 45mins - 1hr

Once dry you can flat and polish if you need too.

Thank you for this information. I will work out what CFM I can achieve when I build the booth.

My Main concern is me and ensure I get air, I used to spray acetone without a mask and it brought back my childhood asthma so I know not to be so stupid again, just glad its gone but know that I need to be really careful with 2P.

I think more than spraying technique its the harder which confuses me. The guy in the nearest unit to me sprays 2P openly with no filters or mask (crazy) but he does get an excellent finish with no heat.

Is this the stages for 2P to get a very shiny finish

* high build primer
* base coat
* clear
* wet sand and polish

You don't sand between primer, base, clear on 2P where on cellulose you sand between each coat?