I'm done with bodging... what are my options for re-roofing my garage?

[hooblah]

I have a very old garage with single pitch corrugated cement/asbestos roof. I've had damp problems for many years. I tried to seal the exterior with cromapol two or three years ago, but it still leaks a bit. I was going to give it another coat this week as it seems like I either didnt do a good enough job of painting it on, or spread it too thinly.
On inspection today, the cromapol seems to be separating/lifting off in areas, and has flaked in other areas, leaving pinholes. Unless I can scrape off all the loose bits, giving it another coat doesn't seem like the best option. I considered fibreglassing the whole thing, but I've been told it will eventually start peeling away. The only way I see forward now is to fit an entirely new roof.

Being tight means I want to do it on the cheap. But having an appreciation for aesthetics means that I know cheap will not equal pretty. What I don't want is to have it looking like an industrial building. What are my options?
The garage dims are roughly 5mx3m.

20210421_183756

 

[gaz1]

post 186

How best to re-roof this

this that hole must be filled otherwise blowback will affect it would you cover that with lead or flashband or foam and sealant? best way please.

www.mig-welding.co.uk

all depends on whats under your roof already though

 

[frank horton]

get some used metal INSULATED profile sheeting.....u and a mate could take of the old and fit the new in ONE day...
depending on security and orientation to the sun u could fit 1 see thru panel on the roof.....
hopefully whats holding up the orig roof is in good condition.....
even the worst it could be done in a week end......
Me and a lad can lift 7.5m x 40mm insu roof panels by hand....and I'm a skinney 72 year old....
then to smarten the whole job render the outside walls..."Weber" Germany, do a ready mixed and coloured render in 25kg bags...
even I can slop that on.......there two kinds hand float or blown on.....then u got something nice to look at and will stop the walls acting like a sponge....

 

[SierraV6]

If it is asbestos you don’t want to disturb it and paying to have it removed professionally would cost big bucks!

I would try a liquid bitumen product paint it on there nice and thick!

Wickes Bitumen Damp Proof Membrane Liquid - 5L | Wickes.co.uk

Wickes Bitumen Damp Proof Membrane Liquid - 5L

www.wickes.co.uk

It depends of course on your definition of “big bucks” but it isn’t actually that expensive to get asbestos cement sheets removed. If you’re careful you can remove them yourself as long as you dispose of them properly. Whilst they contain asbestos (remember that!) they’re nowhere near as dangerous as say crocidolite insulation which you don’t want to be handling yourself!

 

[mtt.tr]

If it's white cementious asbestos it's fine to remove just follow hse guidance


https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/a14.pdf


I'm an advocate for rubber, it's simple and if properly laid well lasting

 

[Keith 66]

A simple roof like that shouldnt take long, You could take the asbestos sheets off yourself as i did but in hindsight it would have been easier to just get them removed & taken away in one hit.
Insulated steel sheets are good, nice & warm in winter, cool in summer. No condensation, no rusty tools!

 

[pedrobedro]

One of the corrugated sheets on a friend's garage had cracked and I found a second hand metal one. I undid the J bolts, put the metal one on top and bolted it back down.

 

[not done it yet]

One of the corrugated sheets on a friend's garage had cracked and I found a second hand metal one. I undid the J bolts, put the metal one on top and bolted it back down.

Hooblah has already stated an appreciation of aesthetics?

 

[Matchless]

you can get tile effect metal roof sheets, I have a mate in Kent, Meopham, who would take away any full sheets of asbestos foc, he has many sheds in a conservation area and when he extends them he does not want it to show up on google sat view,

 

[gaz1]

i just took mine off and refitted them just becareful when you do

also fitting a 3x2 so that i could fasten down to them in doing so when i could afford i could then drill through with new bolts

 

[Parm]

Once AC starts going it will only progressively get worse

Its best to replace the whole lot. AC is non licensable works, meaning you can do it it yourself, but a a degree of knowledge is required to have the correct controls in place.

once you’ve had a read of the guidance and your confident its a fairly straightforward job. Cut bolts from below with bolt croppers then remove sheets whole. Keep the whole lot damp with a pump up sprayer and don’t break the sheets. Wrap in 1000 gauge poly for disposal.

Then arrange disposal. This can be troublesome and expensive

Alternatively find a licensed contractor to do the job. It can work out cheaper for them to do the job and take away the waste in one go, rather than just paying for disposal alone

Always best to be careful with anything asbestos. Typically AC contains mostly Chrysotile often with Amosite contamination. It has also been known to contain crocidolite too.

Best not to take chances by guessing what it may or may not contain.

 

[Ton-up]

Remove sheets, fix on OSB, cover using epdm rubber membrane. Put trim on edges. Done. Easy to do.

 

[angellonewolf]

as above been mucking around with my roof for a few years fix here and there cost a few quid but never fixed

im now in to a repair up to the tone of £500 cost of a few tools resin fiber roof flashing and lead

its a last and hope final fix

id go with fiber glass roof myself but the rubber seams to be as good but just dont last as long i belive

 

[hooblah]

Thanks for the great advice.

One issue I should mention that I have with installation of a new roof is the proximity of the adjacent garage to mine (refer to pic above). Approximately half of my garage is in close proximity with next door's. There may be enough room to get your hand down the gap between them, but certainly not enough to use any tools down there were fixings required to be put into the side. This may dictate what materials/methods can be used.

The only thing that concerns me about metal panels is that they look a bit industrial, which is a look I'm trying to avoid. If that look can be avoided then great, otherwise that suggestion can go near the bottom of the list.
I imagine sips panels will have the same look, just with bonded foam insulation on the underside.

Fortunately, I already have insulation on the underside of the roof. I have created a 'cold roof' by installing multifoil insulation, with a vented cavity between it and the roof. Cutting any fixings would have to be from the top, as there's no way I'm ripping any of the insulation down to access it.

I'm also quite aware of asbestos. Although I'm no expert, I have had plenty of training in my job, and I am in fact project managing a few large asbestos cleans/removals jobs as we speak. These roof sheets do not concern me in the slightest.

I like the idea of a single ply roof.
This also means fibreglass is an option.
How long would each of these options last?

Another thing I want to avoid is a black roof. I think that rules out EPDM?
That also rules out bitumen.

@Matchless that's good to know, thanks.

What are people's thoughts on a tiled roof?
Are there any alternatives to standard roof tiles, such as cheaper, faster, longer lasting, nicer looking, more hard-wearing etc?

 

[gaz1]

One issue I should mention that I have with installation of a new roof is the proximity of the adjacent garage to mine (refer to pic above). Approximately half of my garage is in close proximity with next door's. There may be enough room to get your hand down the gap between them, but certainly not enough to use any tools down there were fixings required to be put into the side. This may dictate what materials/methods can be used.

The only thing that concerns me about metal panels is that they look a bit industrial, which is a look I'm trying to avoid. If that look can be avoided then great, otherwise that suggestion can go near the bottom of the list.

I like the idea of a single ply roof.
This also means fibreglass is an option.
How long would each of these options last?

What are people's thoughts on a tiled roof?
Are there any alternatives to standard roof tiles, such as cheaper, faster, longer lasting, nicer looking, more hard-wearing etc?

1, makes no difference if you cant get down it you fasten a different way instead to hold it

2, your being picky on materials used vs being skin flint
3, more weight more cost and youve spoken that your a skin flint

so its either box profile and have to fit wood so that you can fasten it down
same issue with any profile roofing no matter which one you choose

same problem with single ply you need to fasten it down

any material discolours over years and sunlight

thats why ive used 3x2 under the sheets something to fasten down too also why i suggested it here as well

Another roofing question.

If that was mine I'd be inclined to do away with the steel completely. Internal 2x4 studwork all the way around. Insulated and boarded and will support the josts. Joists across the short run and firrings for a fall

www.mig-welding.co.uk

so pick your punishment and cost you state dont want to bodge put your money where your mouth is

 

[hooblah]

I said I'm tight, not poor

 

[RWD3M]

Hi Hooblah,

With respect, regardless of what you do with that roof, if that is a single skin concrete block wall, it's always going to be damp in there. Condensation will form unless you can heat/ventilate/insulate it.

In my opinion. Hope I'm wrong.

 

[hooblah]

Thanks. It's insulated and vented. The issue I have is that the roof has deteriorated to the point that it lets water in. I've alleviated the problem somewhat with the measures I have taken, but it wasn't good enough, and is slowly getting worse.
The points where the fixings go through the sheets into the wall plate are an area where water gets in. The wood beneath holds the moisture and adds to condensation. I did try to seal the bolt holes up with gutter sealant, but this has also deteriorated over time.

I don't want to spend major money on this roof as the garage doesn't warrant it. Ideally it needs to be knocked down and rebuilt (bigger). So for now, I'm happy to apply a solution that will give me a 10 year life span rather than 50 years.
If torch on felt or fibreglass can accomplish this, then great. But everything I've bee told says it won't last long at all.

Hence I'm looking for a solution that doesn't look like an eyesore, lasts 10 years, yet doesn't cost as much as doing it 'properly'. If it turns out that it can't be done, THEN I'll spend the money on a proper job. But I'd like to explore the options before doing so.

 

[gaz1]

Thanks. It's insulated and vented. The issue I have is that the roof has deteriorated to the point that it lets water in. I've alleviated the problem somewhat with the measures I have taken, but it wasn't good enough, and is slowly getting worse.
The points where the fixings go through the sheets into the wall plate are an area where water gets in. The wood beneath holds the moisture and adds to condensation. I did try to seal the bolt holes up with gutter sealant, but this has also deteriorated over time.

I don't want to spend major money on this roof as the garage doesn't warrant it. Ideally it needs to be knocked down and rebuilt (bigger). So for now, I'm happy to apply a solution that will give me a 10 year life span rather than 50 years.
If torch on felt or fibreglass can accomplish this, then great. But everything I've bee told says it won't last long at all.

Hence I'm looking for a solution that doesn't look like an eyesore, lasts 10 years, yet doesn't cost as much as doing it 'properly'. If it turns out that it can't be done, THEN I'll spend the money on a proper job. But I'd like to explore the options before doing so.

its still a skinflint option

or better known another bodge again to make it last longer

just buy bituman blocks and melt it in

 

[RWD3M]

Thanks. It's insulated and vented. The issue I have is that the roof has deteriorated to the point that it lets water in. I've alleviated the problem somewhat with the measures I have taken, but it wasn't good enough, and is slowly getting worse.
The points where the fixings go through the sheets into the wall plate are an area where water gets in. The wood beneath holds the moisture and adds to condensation. I did try to seal the bolt holes up with gutter sealant, but this has also deteriorated over time.

I don't want to spend major money on this roof as the garage doesn't warrant it. Ideally it needs to be knocked down and rebuilt (bigger). So for now, I'm happy to apply a solution that will give me a 10 year life span rather than 50 years.
If torch on felt or fibreglass can accomplish this, then great. But everything I've bee told says it won't last long at all.

Hence I'm looking for a solution that doesn't look like an eyesore, lasts 10 years, yet doesn't cost as much as doing it 'properly'. If it turns out that it can't be done, THEN I'll spend the money on a proper job. But I'd like to explore the options before doing so.

Then I think the bitumen paint option may be your best. provided you have no gaping holes or spilts then a couple of good thick coats should take care of it.