Inline vs V twin compressor...?

[The Z'eer]

Imminently about to buy my first compressor. I've been advised that Wolfs 90 ltr Dakota is well worth the money. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-90-Lit...%3A2fecc5c315b0a60cf3eb5617fffe58aa%7Ciid%3A2

However this is sixty quid cheaper http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-Air-Co...%3A2ff49b7315b0a2ab923025c4fffe70e8%7Ciid%3A3 and seemingly the same spec, although a V twin configuration. I know very little about compressors.

Should I stick to the inline 90 ltr or better off with the V twin?

Thanks

 

[The Z'eer]

The compressor in that link isn't a v...

What made you think it was?

My mistake, edited.

 

[brightspark]

direct drive = crap

 

[Davek0974]

I have the dakota 90l compressor- its a great unit and pretty quiet.

Either get rid of the fitted regulator or pull the bung from the tank end and fit a good one there - the one supplied is crap.

 

[wristpin]

Belt drive and iron bore every time.

 

[Gritineye]

I have an earlier version of that Wolf, works fine but it's horrendously noisy!

 

[optima21]

noise is the biggest difference I had a 2.5 HP direct drive compressor and changed it for the belt drive compressor just because it is quieter. now you can only just hear the compressor running from outside my garage. the spec sheets won't show there is much difference in noise levels, but the belt drive compressor is lower pitched so doesnt appear to be as audible.

 

[pedrobedro]

I've had a SIP v twin direct drive 3hp for about 20 years now and apart from oil changes it has had no attention. When I bought it there were no comparable belt drive on offer. It fitted in the space I had and was reasonably priced so I have no complaints.

 

[james butler]

like wise have one of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/airmaster-tiger-16510-3hp-50-litre-air-compre/ for about 7 years now and its never let me down.
only changed the oil maybe 3/4 times

 

[The Z'eer]

The v style there is a direct drive - that's the real difference.

A belt drive v twin isn't really any different to a parallel twin, or a boxer - but belt vs direct there's no contest - belt every time.

Might I ask why and how is a belt drive compressor is superior to a direct drive unit? Is it simply the noise level?

 

[The Z'eer]

I have the dakota 90l compressor- its a great unit and pretty quiet.

Either get rid of the fitted regulator or pull the bung from the tank end and fit a good one there - the one supplied is crap.

Thanks for the advice there. What is the problem with the standard regulator? The world of compressors is an uncharted area for me, thus I know very little.

 

[WorkshopChris]

No, there's more to it.

For a start it means that the motor and pump don't share any bearings so they're more effectively isolated.

They're also thermally separate, so the heat from each unit doesn't compound.

It also means that the pump can spin slower so less wear - because of the reduction the pumps are usually bigger as well (more air from slower pump) which helps with heat too.

One more to add to that list with direct drive a motor failure will normally result in a scrap compressor with little chance of a easy repair.
Belt drive with a motor failure you just change the motor.

 

[Davek0974]

Thanks for the advice there. What is the problem with the standard regulator? The world of compressors is an uncharted area for me, thus I know very little.

The tiny cheap reg they fit has air passages tighter than a ducks ****. I use mine on a CNC plasma cutter that uses a lot of flow and the little reg failed miserably. I took the bung out of the tank end and fitted a 1/2" (IIRC) filter-reg then off to my air-dryer and the plasma.

For small stuff like nailers it will work ok but air tools forget it, for a few quid its night-and-day.

Also i recently changed all my airline connectors to PCL-XF - these things can flow a sick amount of air - great for air tools.

 

[The Z'eer]

No, there's more to it.

For a start it means that the motor and pump don't share any bearings so they're more effectively isolated.

They're also thermally separate, so the heat from each unit doesn't compound.

It also means that the pump can spin slower so less wear - because of the reduction the pumps are usually bigger as well (more air from slower pump) which helps with heat too.

Wonderful! thank you for the knowledge. I'll opt for a the belt driven Dakota and keep to that choice.

 

[The Z'eer]

One more to add to that list with direct drive a motor failure will normally result in a scrap compressor with little chance of a easy repair.
Belt drive with a motor failure you just change the motor.

...another plus point for the belt drive thank you!

 

[The Z'eer]

The tiny cheap reg they fit has air passages tighter than a ducks ****. I use mine on a CNC plasma cutter that uses a lot of flow and the little reg failed miserably. I took the bung out of the tank end and fitted a 1/2" (IIRC) filter-reg then off to my air-dryer and the plasma.

For small stuff like nailers it will work ok but air tools forget it, for a few quid its night-and-day.

Also i recently changed all my airline connectors to PCL-XF - these things can flow a sick amount of air - great for air tools.

Well, the main intention for the Dakota is for operating spray guns and considering this a large air flow really will be necessary. I'll ditch the standard regulator as you recommend. I've still yet to purchase the compressor and it'll be my first, meaning I'm not really familiar with the lay out or exactly what does what, though I'm sure I'll learn.

Are PCL-XF considered the best connectors available for a compressor?

 

[Davek0974]

You may well be ok for spraying, if its just a few CFM of air used, try it first.

The compressor comes with a "euro" connector as fitted IIRC - again these are ok for lower flow use but i found they would not run my air sander or other tools so fitted the PCL-XF ones instead - just personal preference.