Installing Euro Socket to SIP Autoplus 130 (now with 100% more added pictures!)

[eSCHEn]

As per the previous thread (www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/converting-sip-autoplus-130-to-euro-fitting.50569/) I've fitted a Euro torch to fix some intermittent feed and arc issues and thought I'd stick some pictures up in case it's helpful for someone else in the future.

I'm going to do a post per picture as my connection's not fantastic and that's what's easiest for me.

 

[rtbcomp]

Please don't do a post-per-picture, they will get deleted - it will be an horrendous job to follow the topic.

 

[eSCHEn]

Please don't do a post-per-picture, they will get deleted - it will be an horrendous job to follow the topic.

No problems shall do (or not in this case).

 

[eSCHEn]

Lowest hanging fruit first. The earth lead was missing so I installed a 35/50 dinse socket on the front panel. I gas soldered a metal lug onto the end of the original earth wire. The tape's just there to hold the self-amalgamating tape in place whilst it sets.



Here's the feed mechanism as it originally was installed. I'm lucky that this machine is an older model and comes with a really nice geared motor (not shown as it's on the other side) and not the usual teeny motor. Still the wire feeds dreadfully when it does. It doesn't really move no matter how tight the adjuster is or the speed on the dial.



The new Euro socket comes with two wires but the original only has one. I figured the return path must be the main power feed. Here's the multimeter hooked up in the circuit. The meter's a bit cheap so the reading here means infinite resistance.



Pressing the trigger on the torch drops the reading down showing the circuit's been made.



Old mechanism stripped out.



Spoke to @weldequip who recommended the Parweld SB150 torch, here it is unpacked. Feels very well made and is really comfortable in the hand.



I tried the new Euro socket in for fitment. That feed is going to need trimming down. I've removed the drive wheel from the feed mechanism so I can get the feed through unobstructed. The two hex keys are just to eye up so the feed sits straight and true.



Normally there's a small bracket to hold the inner tube in the correct position but no such luck here. As everything's brass so I gas soldered half a 30A terminal block to the end of the main feed so I can stop the inner tube where I need to.

 

[eSCHEn]

The two wires coming from the Euro socket have their terminals attached.



Here's the terminals fitted - one in the old switch socket and the other attached to the main feed.



Only thing left to do on the Euro socket now is to route the new Argon hose in place and fix it to the solenoid valve. You can see the motor and gearbox for the feed mechanism in the top-left of the picture.




The feed tube from the reel had melted when I was testing the machine initially. I need to make a new one and didn't have any nice plastic tubes to hand so made one out of brass tube I had spare. Again using terminal blocks to hold the tube in place. I know it's a bodge but I only need to test the new socket's working and then I can figure something better out.



I flared the end with a screwdriver, allen key and an electric drill to make for easier feeding.



Okay ready for some testing now. Plug it in and gingerly turn on. No bangs, yay! Blow into the gas hose and press the trigger - the relay's switching and air's flowing, looks like job done

But no. No such luck. Still have the same intermittent fault on the feed, gah!

So I've replaced the torch, the hose and the socket. Hmm. I'm thinking now a) failed component on PCB or b) dry joint on PCB.

I stripped the PCB off and nope, no dry joints or obviously failed components. Curses!

Right, move on to c) a bad connection or failed wire. I ran the unit until it failed; I can provoke this by articulating the switches on the front panel that control the power level. Now with the trigger on the torch held down and nothing happening I jiggle some wires with my VDE driver. I get lucky and the main common live feed to the switches seems to be the problem. I power the unit down and attach test leads to either end. Yep I'm getting zero continuity but a wee wiggle of the wire and it works again. I remove the connections on the actual switch bank and each switch tests perfectly. I conclude it's a broken wire.

As there's naff all space to work in I decided to just use piggy back terminals to replace the lead. Here's the main power switch end.



Here's the switch block with its piggy back connections.

 

[eSCHEn]

So, fire up the welder and try again. This time I can't trigger the fault no matter how hard I try, success!



Wire stopped feeding nicely after I finished signing my handle. The torch was still live and the feed motor was turning but nothing coming out the end. Look inside and greeted by this lovely mess I guess a new wire holder's in order and some replacement drive and guide wheels but that's the next chapter which I haven't done yet

 

[skotl]

Good work well done!

 

[Richard.]

So, fire up the welder and try again. This time I can't trigger the fault no matter how hard I try, success!
View attachment 48529


Wire stopped feeding nicely after I finished signing my handle. The torch was still live and the feed motor was turning but nothing coming out the end. Look inside and greeted by this lovely mess I guess a new wire holder's in order and some replacement drive and guide wheels but that's the next chapter which I haven't done yet
View attachment 48530

Nice job good fault finding.

 

[eSCHEn]

Thanks both. Appreciate the feedback

 

[500e]

Some one stole the rest of the innards
Nice to see you have it working is the reel running to free usually find the nest between the drive rollers & the out feed tube

 

[eSCHEn]

The spool holder's tensioning is all to cock. I knocked up a quick bodge but did expect problems with it. I'm going to get one of these www.weldequip.com/spool-holder.htm, looks like it should be a better piece of kit.

I'm going to get a new roller like this www.weldequip.com/clarke-wire-feed-rollers.htm. It's cheap enough and I think it should be reversible from 0.6mm to 0.8mm, need to check first though.

 

[Flapdisk]

Nice one mate, well don. That wire drive looks like a windscreen wiper motor

 

[eSCHEn]

Thanks very much, it's always pleasing to bring something back to life.

The motor seems to be an official thing as far as I can tell. It's pretty beefy and has a nice gearbox. You can still buy a replacement unit here www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121471059980 - £115 yoinks!