IR Type 30 Tech Info...

[GRW]

OK,....so I acquired the Ingersoll Rand Type 30, model 234 today that I was asking about before.
I think it's about 150 Litre, and while originally 3ph, was fitted with a 1.5kw, 1350rpm, East German made electric motor about 30-years-ago (when it was already 20-years-old).
Can anyone direct me to where I might get a Manual and Specs, and details of correct Compressor Oil and quantity, and how the motor pressure switch triggers work please?
(I've found as I posted in the "today I aquired" thread), that this one runs up when started and cuts out itself when up to pressure, but does not restart when pressure drops.
I think the switch unit has failed as its had the cover cut open and the on/off triggered manually (except it cuts off on full pressure automatically and the manual over-pressure valve also seems operable).

I need to understand how it works so I can service and fix this 1972 Compressor so it can do another 50-years and see me out

Any assistance or steers gratefully received!

Cheers, G.

 

[Seadog]

Is it a Danfoss unit?

 

[mtt.tr]

Your pressure switch accepts the tank pressure

Inside the switch you will have an adjustment for max pressure and another the differential which sets the drop off when it kicks back in

Any reciprocating piston oil will do though the IR stuff isn't to expensive.
Oil level is to the top of the filler plug

You can also still get the felt air filters

 

[Bornfree]

I use ISO 68 on stop start compressor's and ISO 100 on continuous running compressor's.

 

[GRW]

Your pressure switch accepts the tank pressure

Inside the switch you will have an adjustment for max pressure and another the differential which sets the drop off when it kicks back in

Any reciprocating piston oil will do though the IR stuff isn't to expensive.
Oil level is to the top of the filler plug

You can also still get the felt air filters

By piston oil do you mean specific compressor oil please? (I've seen that some old pumps have a plate stating SAE20 oil.... but I don't know if that's monograde engine oil they mean, or a specific weight dedicated compressor oil....

I figured the theory of the pressure switch was as you describe.... but I've never seen one or had chance to see how one physically/electrically does its thing or is adjusted.... but I will get poking about in mine soon (so some prior info/data would help lol).

 

[mtt.tr]

By piston oil do you mean specific compressor oil please? (I've seen that some old pumps have a plate stating SAE20 oil.... but I don't know if that's monograde engine oil they mean, or a specific weight dedicated compressor oil....

I figured the theory of the pressure switch was as you describe.... but I've never seen one or had chance to see how one physically/electrically does its thing or is adjusted.... but I will get poking about in mine soon (so some prior info/data would help lol).

Here is one from earlier, this is a danfoss so will be a bit different to yours but functionally pretty much the same, it just cuts the live to the motor




not that it matters this one is on a refrigeration dryer.


Just reciprocating piston compressor oil

 

[GRW]

Here is one from earlier, this is a danfoss so will be a bit different to yours but functionally pretty much the same, it just cuts the live to the motor



View attachment 328132
not that it matters this one is on a refrigeration dryer.


Just reciprocating piston compressor oil

Thanks!

 

[wristpin]

May be of interest

Air Compressor Oils & Lubricants | Ingersoll Rand

Ingersoll Rand offer a wide range of approved, genuine OEM oils and lubricants, that are specifically designed to suit your particular model of air compressor, resulting in an efficient & reliable match made in heaven.

www.ingersollrand.com

morris-what-oil

Machine Mart Power Tools and Machinery: Clarke, Dewalt, Makita, Ryobi, Bosch - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

 

[Wildefalcon]

I bought a new modern switch unit, they're about a tenner, for mine. The original was doing as you describe and I ran out of time to get it right. Does the job.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The unloader valve thing on the cylinder head was also a bit wrecked, so the modern switch handles all that as well.

 

[frank horton]

I get my on/off auto switches from China.....about a tenner.....as I have a few comps so I but the higher amperage switch so one spare covers my range of comps....
I just use D engine oil in all my comps as I have loads in stock....
One of my comp piston pumps would cost about £1500 to replace the pump !!!! but this oil is just fine any doubpt I would'nt use it....
Change the felt filters asap or better still use a modified car air filter ....loads to see on uTube....etc...
I'd also be moving the KNEE Knocker outlet.....all mine are always on top.....
lastley make sure the drain tap is free and easy to work.......
then it will last another 50 years......good luck....

 

[Wildefalcon]

I recommend an automatic drain valve. Cheap for what it is.

 

[GRW]

I recommend an automatic drain valve. Cheap for what it is.

Didn't know they existed.... I'll look into that

 

[graffian]

I have older looking AEI switches.
When they played up it was down to wear in a link, the wear messed the geometry of the spring that pulls
the contacts on. So it never turned back on. I rebuilt the worn bit with weld and have put another 40 years use on it.
Is there a screw missing from that hole in the flappy bit in the switch, adjustment screw for switch back on maybe?

I was searching for a magneto related patent and I found the patent that covers my switch, with nice drawings of the switch.

 

[500e]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automatic-Electronic-Compressor-Condensate-Management/dp/B076BHDQ38

There are a lot of others

 

[GRW]

I spent today tinkering.
Drained the oil and it was black and goopy at the bottom. Luckily there was enough in the pump that wasn't gloomy so I think all is OK.
I fixed the wobbly pulley and aligned the pulleys, and then straightened up the rather squished wire guard some, so it's now functional.
Then I removed the drain plug and nothing came out at all - so I poked around with a bit if welding wire and it was blocked.... and there was a LOT of water in there! Weirdly though it was absolutely clean & clear - when I was anticipating rusty orange disgustingness. No idea why.
I checked the pressure switch and the contactor- all was OK.
With it reassembled with clean oil I ran it up and used the pressure to force out remaining water vapour (I had to do this several times).
Then I ran it up and set up the off setting so the motor cut out just before the safety blow-off valve starts to hiss (10 Bar according to the gauge which does now read from 0 - 145, when the Relief valve goes off at 150psi on the gauge... suggesting it's reasonably accurate).
I then fiddled with the cut-in screw.... and found it had been wound all the way in and this was why the low pressure motor start didn't cut in.
It's currently set up and tested so it's cuts in at just under 100psi, and off at 145psi (I'm not sure what should be set at....but at least it works
The compressor seems to run nicely, doesn't take long to build pressure, is a quiet, relaxed sort of noise when it runs.
I've not had the chance to actually use it to run anything yet.... but so far I'm pretty chuffed.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I fitted the same type filter as the one on my Clarke compressor. Same thread, same paper filter. I don't use it professionally, so filters will be changed as and when I remember.

I also fitted an extended drain to the bung, as access was poor.

 

[Wildefalcon]

And, as it's in a separate room, and I forget to turn it off, I and fitting a "compressor on" indicator.

 

[GRW]

I'll hunt around for an air filter

I've got the Danfoss unit working great and it's easy to adjust, so I'll keep that for the time being.

The only bit that's kaput is the manual On/Off switch..... but I'll get a 240v rated toggle switch and put it in Series with the Neutral - then I've the option to manually override the run cycle without having to switch off at the plug as it is ATM.

I like this Compressor a lot... and it's lovely and quiet running so its neighbour-friendly too (unlike the small Clarke 50L Direct Drive thing I've got, which makes an awful racket.

 

[daleyd]

I’ve never heard of a compressor air filter being oiled - especially if it’s going to be used for spraying. Usually clean and dry is what’s needed