John Deere 2450 brake change

[reb78]

Following this thread - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/john-deere-2450-steering-unit-overhaul.137649/ it appears my brakes need an overhaul and not the steering unit. I think most predicted that so thanks for the guidance there.

It looks a relatively simple job to be honest albeit with some really bulky stuff:
- remove final drive housing one side at a time
- change friction plate
- put back together
- refill with hydraulic oil
- bleed brakes

Do I need to do anything other than changing the friction plates whilst in there? (provided the other components look in good condition?) Would you touch seals on the piston or retraction pin assemblies etc or keep it simple and just leave everything else alone? Other than a fair bit of friction material in the hydraulic oil (see end of thread above), everything appeared to be working fine.

 

[8ob]

Are these paper plates on this?

Bob

 

[reb78]

Are these paper plates on this?

Bob

Pretty sure they are. I need to take it apart to see exactly what is in there as the parts books seems to list 12 and 15 spline friction plates but this one seems to commonly come up and they are all similar:

Friction disc ø 305mm - z=15 for John Deere 40 / 50 series (AL65871)

Ø 305 MM - Z=15

www.malpasdirect.co.uk

 

[8ob]

Pretty sure they are. I need to take it apart to see exactly what is in there as the parts books seems to list 12 and 15 spline friction plates but this one seems to commonly come up and they are all similar:

Friction disc ø 305mm - z=15 for John Deere 40 / 50 series (AL65871)

Ø 305 MM - Z=15

www.malpasdirect.co.uk

In which case leave them soaking in uto prior to installing and make sure it’s the correct grade, not all of them are suitable for wet brake/clutch packs.

Bob

 

[reb78]

Thanks.

Is my simple summary of the process above ok? Or should I be replacing other components whilst in there? My thought is to leave the seals, actuator assembly/discs all alone unless something springs out as wrong while its apart?

 

[reb78]

Brakes were fooked.

 

[Bornfree]

You will need to change the hydraulic filter several times because all that missing friction material will be in the housing.

 

[reb78]

You will need to change the hydraulic filter several times because all that missing friction material will be in the housing.

Yep. I thought that. What a pain as it also seems to clog the pickup filter and that appears to be a full drain down to clean at about 150£ of oil a time!

 

[8ob]

Yep. I thought that. What a pain as it also seems to clog the pickup filter and that appears to be a full drain down to clean at about 150£ of oil a time!

Pay to drain out the oil and flush through the trans/axle case with diesel. Like all these hydraulic systems they only filter the return, the pick up pipe will only have a strainer at best so all the crap laying about in the case will go through the pump before it returns through a filter.

Bob

 

[reb78]

It's currently got no oil in it. Flush as in fill and drain OR fill, run and drain?

 

[8ob]

It's currently got no oil in it. Flush as in fill and drain OR fill, run and drain?

Its a bit of a chore, unless you are prepared to take a side plate off the side of the transmission all you can do is fill and flush a few times.

Used to get the same grief with the wet clutch packs.

 

[reb78]

Its a bit of a chore, unless you are prepared to take a side plate off the side of the transmission all you can do is fill and flush a few times.

Used to get the same grief with the wet clutch packs.

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How much work is removing a side plate? Can you get in there with a garden sprayer with diesel in it and get the worst out then?!

 

[Bornfree]

Yep. I thought that. What a pain as it also seems to clog the pickup filter and that appears to be a full drain down to clean at about 150£ of oil a time!

No need to lose the oil. Make up a hydraulic hose and pump the oil into drums using the spool valves. You won't get it all, but probably 3/4s of it.