Karcher Power washer Motor help-Electricians?

[ford34/2]

Karcher Power washer,Model 3.960-1636356 1.7 Kw

Very short burst of power washing Friday am,, motor sounded dead lumpy similar to when a drill armature gives up the Ghost, lasted about 10 seconds and stopped.There are no bearings binding or anything feeling rough, pump is all free, I can spin and turn whole armature by hand, switch and electrics through the switch seem to be all present, 30 microfarad condenser ok, tried a 50 no different. No cracks in pump and it has not been frost damaged-It gets drained using the pump.

Switch it on -Totally DEAD, not even if you spin the fan.

I have an analogue and a digital meter-- not sure what you do with them, however readings across the three terminal are as below. Checked all 3 terminals to earth all clear. And we have 240 coming out of the switch.

Any one any ideas, I had half hoped for an open circuit on two of the three terminals?.
Dare I connect a Live and neutral direct to the motor, It may just hum with out the condensor?? But may prove something, not sure what?-- Oh no smells either.

Thanks lads, Stan

 

[xmetal]

Can you get the black cover or alloy casing off to inspect the windings? I see you have already done the 'sniff test'.

 

[ford34/2]

I could separate the motor, the black shroud is just the fan cover and directs the air over the motor. My problem is I`m not too sure what the gasket is, it seems very like a Silicone. and nothing on Manufacturers parts list.

Stan

 

[xmetal]

Not certain if it's a brushless motor or not but I'm guessing it's either brushes or a burnt out winding.

 

[ford34/2]

Windings was my gut feeling.

Second puzzle, My son has an almost identical machine, KB 3030 looks the same inside, although 1.6KW- slightly smaller, the readings on his motor:
Left/middle 7 Ohms
Two outsides 19.7
Middle/right 13.1
so sort of similar to the Louises machine, reading 3.8, 13, 9.6

Doesnt mean much to me though.

Stan

 

[the snooper]

Are you getting power upto the motor both live and neutral ? Is the pressure operated switch working

 

[WorkshopChris]

Are you getting power upto the motor both live and neutral ? Is the pressure operated switch working

Good point switch contacts could be arcing that might explain,

motor sounded dead lumpy similar to when a drill armature gives up the Ghost, lasted about 10 seconds and stopped

 

[Appyasme1]

Sounds like it is dead,time to buy a new one

 

[ford34/2]

The meter is reading both continuity and 240 Volts on the male spade terminals on the out let of the switch, so thats from the pins on the 3 pin plug to the pins on the switch. The switches are very prone to overheating, burning contacts, etc, and the red Momentary make switch is only sold in a whole switch housing--about £35.00

I also connected my sons switch as a whole assembley with his capacitor onto Louises Machine, sort of eliminates the switch, the 3 pin plug, cable and motor connection pins.

as I said I wondered if I connect 240 on to Live and neutral on the motor, would it try to start, just humming and trying to start like a failed capacitor.??

Stan

 

[ford34/2]

Sounds like it is dead,time to buy a new one

Bother-- she will not be happy, its done nothing in the way of work.

Stan

 

[the snooper]

Sounds like it is dead,time to buy a new one

Buy a new one, how long have you been on this forum ? We don't want any of that foul language

 

[ford34/2]

post deleted, not applicable to the thread.
Stan

 

[the snooper]

Buy a new one, how long have you been on this forum ? We don't want any of that foul language


I've removed the offending word. I have been a member for a considerable number of years. The forum has an excellent record of Moderation, done sympathetically and with fairness, I'm sure if this offended or overstepped the line then It would be removed or a warning issued. Like many of the forums members who contribute and offer favours, goods, materials etc, then I'm no different. I try and research my replies spending time gathering accurate and relative information applicable to the thread,

In this case I can but offer my apologies for the office caused.

Stan

Stan you got the wrong end of the stick the offending word was buy

I quoted appys post not yours

 

[ford34/2]

Buy a new one, how long have you been on this forum ? We don't want any of that foul language

Stan you got the wrong end of the stick the offending word was buy

I quoted appys post not yours

No problem, I appreciate yours and every one elses contributions. Just me jumping the gun before it went bang-- sorry.
My post that was above has been deleted as it was not applicable to the thread and the reply posted from "the snooper"

Now I hate buying anything to replace something that might be repairable, I was not brought up in the dissposable world many younger people live in today, Even if its broken it would be nice to see why, so it may well be motor in half to have a look, the sound and performance pointed me to Motor, theres nowt else in there to go wrong.

Stan

 

[the snooper]

the seal that i have arrowed doesnt lead to an internal pressure switch does it ?

 

[mike 109444]

There should be at the very least a pressure switch that operates once the machine gets up to pressure. Mine (a karcher as well) will run the pump if I don't turn on the water supply, then once water is on it will build up the pressure till it's reached then TURN OFF the motor much as Snooper is referring to. Not sure if that pressure switch is in the switch assembly you tried ?

 

[WorkshopChris]

Can you post a picture of the wet end, has to be a pressure switch somewhere.

 

[ford34/2]

The pic is a little confusing and gives an impression of being part of the motor casing. These pics might explain it better. Mike109444 is completely right, the machine pumps pressured water, for as long as its switched on and the lance wand trigger is pulled on, when you release this trigger, pressurised water stops, pressure immediately builds up in the black head and stops the motor running. As soon as trigger is pressed for pressurised water then the machine cuts in automatically. Given the quick test I done just now, there is this plunger thing at the end of the washing liquid inlet, it locates directly onto the rocker switch inside the white switch housing casing, I cant get the plunger to move maybe it doesn't?? but it can possibly make contact with the rocker inside, now a quick try just with the two bits loosely hand assembled seems to indicate a possible intermittent problem on the neutral, so I need to attach some fly leads to the motor plug and socket then reassemble the pump and test the supply is getting to the motor on both the Positive and neutral, just using the meter on Ohms, testing from the 3 pin plug terminals to the male female jointer on the motor. You can maybe see the red rocker switch just inside the black hole in the first and third pic. Theres no blow up diagrams of this head and maybe this "pin" is fixed, however the wee bit of red switch is visable when in the on position it dissapeers in the off position maybe this forms part of the pressure switch,
Sunday is not a good day, pencilled in for plastering on my daughters house. -- but i get a free dinner.!!!

Standby for further updates !!!!! might well be Monday.

 

[eil]

Looks like the middle pin is the common terminal, middle/left terminal your run winding, middle/right start winding. Where was the cap connected to. Just connecting live and neutral to one winding will do nothing at all.

 

[carbon]

The plunger should move but the pressure required to operate it is approx 100 bar (depending on output pressure of machine). I can be removed, the detergent nipple needs to be rotated until it aligns with the slot in the steel casing. Once the casing has been removed the detergent nipple can then be removed and the plunger pushd out from the back. Detergent nipple is just a press fit with an 'o' ring seal