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welder Paul
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hi there, the best advice i can give you is to measure everything twice and note it down before you start cutting. Also make sure all the areas to be welded are clean and solid enough to take the weld. Oh and don't rush, take your time and do it once.
Some butt outriggers in, usually see them lapped on. So long as the reference points for the ends are there so you can position them, it should be Ok either way.
For patches make panels, mark around, cut, weld panels in. Cut back to good steel. Might well find it's been waxed inside the rails so a good clean needed round the weld area, that stuff burns pretty well...
If the chassis' really bad don't be cutting lots out at once
Rear x-member, again you could butt pieces in. Chassis would be 2.64mm originally on a Series I think, but pattern x-members are often thinner, it might've been replaced already.
If replacing the x-member a jig is needed so you get it in the right position.
For patches make panels, mark around, cut, weld panels in. Cut back to good steel. Might well find it's been waxed inside the rails so a good clean needed round the weld area, that stuff burns pretty well...
If the chassis' really bad don't be cutting lots out at once
Rear x-member, again you could butt pieces in. Chassis would be 2.64mm originally on a Series I think, but pattern x-members are often thinner, it might've been replaced already.
If replacing the x-member a jig is needed so you get it in the right position.
cutandshut
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I always think that repairing a Land Rover chassis is much like a game of Poker...........
The secret is knowing what to keep and what to throw away!!!
The secret is knowing what to keep and what to throw away!!!
pedrobedro
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Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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. And if it's like any hand I've ever had. The lot.Personally if the tin worn has the better of a LR Chassis then it's time for a new one.
The biggest problem is, the amount of strengtheners in side the chassis, holding dirt and water. As the dirty water gets into the chassis the water runs out but the dirt stops behind, holding damp, waiting for the next lot of water to soak up. And the cycle continues....
So if the rear cross member has rotted, then the drop down from it will also have begun to rot, so will the Outriggers, and the dumb irons. The inside of the chassis where the gearbox mount is another area ripe for rot.
So unless you intend on selling this soon after you have managed to get it through the next MOT. I wouldn't bother. If keeping it, this will turn into a yearly excise.
Don't believe me? Crawl underneath with an old screwdriver and stab the living daylights out of it. You'll soon find out how much the tin worn has eaten.
If the thought of striping a LR is above you, just think of it as the biggest Mecano going, everything is bolted.
Good luck
Last edited:
feathers
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That sounds like good advice, but unfortunately I cant play poker!!
I've learnt the hard way about the merits of "measure twice, cut once", and always measure at less three times now.
My concern was that I would have to take the rear tub off etc. but sounds like I can get away with leaving it on
I will be keeping it, invested in a roll cage amongst various other parts now. But I am thinking of going down the galvanised chassis route at some point in the future, prob 18months time.
Will check out the land rover forums, cheers.
octo0072000
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landy
you will have more room to weld with the tub off
don't attempt to take the seat frame bolts out or the floor ones etc
just cut them off with a cutting disc and replace them
if removing tub to do cross member make up a jig for the bolt holes for cross member Blanchards are near York you might get a ex military one from them
you will have more room to weld with the tub off
don't attempt to take the seat frame bolts out or the floor ones etc
just cut them off with a cutting disc and replace them
if removing tub to do cross member make up a jig for the bolt holes for cross member Blanchards are near York you might get a ex military one from them
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Save yourself some grief and splash out on the galvanised chassis now, you can get them from about £1200, possibly less if you go with pound notes like my mate did. His series 2a is done and now has a 200tdi fitted to save some money on fuel costs.
darran sandwich
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I would say for the time it takes you may as well have the rear tub off. Remember the rear light loom goes through the cassis, its probably worth replacing that as they love to go any maybe fit a rear 1/4 chassis instead of justa x member, that way it takes most of the low lying areas out. tub off gives you a good chance to clean and check the back half too.
my choice go for galv if you can afford it. 2nd is ex mil, have bought probably 14 over the years all were good except one lwb was bent. supplier did change but was a bit of a drag. Have also replaced 1/2 chassis, ie, from rear xmember to front edge of fuel tank without removing tub, did it on a 4post hoist by supporting the tub, release spring hangers, cut chassis locations and drag out rearwards, and run loom outside of chassis though may need to renew due to verdigris ingress from rear usually about a metre or so. The first ex-mil I changed was in 1983 and chassis is still mot'd ok in March.
Did notice that after market xmembers varied in material thickness, the better ones were manufactured by a co. in Sketchly Lane ind. estate in Hinckley.( sorry can't remember the name, poss John ?)
Did notice that after market xmembers varied in material thickness, the better ones were manufactured by a co. in Sketchly Lane ind. estate in Hinckley.( sorry can't remember the name, poss John ?)
I have reached the point of chopping the rot out of my land rover chassis, mainly rear crossmember, front outriggers. As I have never done this before I wondered if anyone has a step by step guide? Or any advice from their own experiences. Cheers
Hi Feathers,
Here's pictures of mine that I did a few years back. Kept the tub on took about a day from start to finish. I cut the loom and pushed it back inside with a wire pull cord (coat hanger) to pull it back later. Soldered wires back together with glue soaked heatshrink.
feathers
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Ideally I would get a Galvanised chassis, but I cant justify spending that amount of money when I've got a wedding to pay for next year too!
I've heard about the differing standards with crossmembers. Blanchards is just down the road from me, what are the differences if any with a military to normal? Any manufacturers/suppliers to avoid?
I've heard about the differing standards with crossmembers. Blanchards is just down the road from me, what are the differences if any with a military to normal? Any manufacturers/suppliers to avoid?
octo0072000
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cross-member
military is normally a heavy duty chassis from original manufacturer might just be cross member only no extensions give them a ring or go down and see what they have
military is normally a heavy duty chassis from original manufacturer might just be cross member only no extensions give them a ring or go down and see what they have
