BoatBuilderDave
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- Ireland
I thought I'd post some photos of my results with the WWS 6013 rods.
I'm using a second hand Picotech 140 inverter.
Again, I'm new to this, so I presume some who knows what they are doing would get (much) better results.
Lap Joints, 3 mm steel, 2.5mm 6013, from bottom to top. The slag peeled off easily on the second 2.
These are convex, not concave, I THINK I should be running hotter and moving along more quickly, any thoughts on that?
I also tried at 80 amps (no pic, sorry), I could run the bead faster, so it was concave, as it should be, rather than convex as these are, but I was undercutting, and the slag was hard to remove. I did not really feel in control at the higher speed. More practice needed.
Fillet joint in flat position.
3 mm steel, 2.5mm 6013, I think 75 amps, ignore the edge of the bead on the right, that was part of a previous lap joint. The slag lifted quite easily. As you see from the inclusion at the start, I made the classic mistake of moving off too fast when the metal was still cold. Opps
You can see them in more detail here https://picasaweb.google.com/117541...&authkey=Gv1sRgCPW75cjCn-nQfw&feat=directlink
Some comments:
I was surprised how much difference even +/- 5 amps made to how easy it was to weld. I guess it's about 7% so maybe I should not have been so surprised.
On a flat plate, I found that drawing chalk lines to practice beads along made a big difference. It forced me to make the bead go where I wanted, not to just to follow where the bead wanted to go.
Burning the rod for 3-4 seconds on scrap before the start of the weld helps a lot. Much less inclusions at the start.
I LOVE My automatic helmet.
I watched a LOT of Youtube.
And I got this book
=> How to Weld: Techniques and Tips for Beginners and Pros (Motorbooks Workshop) by Todd Bridigum
I'm using a second hand Picotech 140 inverter.
Again, I'm new to this, so I presume some who knows what they are doing would get (much) better results.
Lap Joints, 3 mm steel, 2.5mm 6013, from bottom to top. The slag peeled off easily on the second 2.
- 65 amps, current to low, abysmal.
- 70 amps, shaky hand
- 70 amps, better attempt
These are convex, not concave, I THINK I should be running hotter and moving along more quickly, any thoughts on that?
I also tried at 80 amps (no pic, sorry), I could run the bead faster, so it was concave, as it should be, rather than convex as these are, but I was undercutting, and the slag was hard to remove. I did not really feel in control at the higher speed. More practice needed.
Fillet joint in flat position.
3 mm steel, 2.5mm 6013, I think 75 amps, ignore the edge of the bead on the right, that was part of a previous lap joint. The slag lifted quite easily. As you see from the inclusion at the start, I made the classic mistake of moving off too fast when the metal was still cold. Opps
You can see them in more detail here https://picasaweb.google.com/117541...&authkey=Gv1sRgCPW75cjCn-nQfw&feat=directlink
Some comments:
I was surprised how much difference even +/- 5 amps made to how easy it was to weld. I guess it's about 7% so maybe I should not have been so surprised.
On a flat plate, I found that drawing chalk lines to practice beads along made a big difference. It forced me to make the bead go where I wanted, not to just to follow where the bead wanted to go.
Burning the rod for 3-4 seconds on scrap before the start of the weld helps a lot. Much less inclusions at the start.
I LOVE My automatic helmet.
I watched a LOT of Youtube.
And I got this book
=> How to Weld: Techniques and Tips for Beginners and Pros (Motorbooks Workshop) by Todd Bridigum
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