puffernutter
Puffernutter
- Messages
- 1,852
- Location
- Wiltshire
Like all my projects, it seemed a good idea at the time. I'd just bought a laser cutter/engraver, found out it needed a water chiller and was advised by a few not to touch the Chinese ones you find on eBay. This one appeared at a place not too far away and was a good price, so I bought it. The fact my laser is 50W, possibly needs around 500W to achieve that and the chiller was good for 20kW didn't flag any warning signs!
So, I have now had a good look internally and have a bit of a plan. Firstly this motor/pump will have to go, apart from the fact it has a 13A starting current and 7A running, I worry that the pressure it probably runs at will damage the water jacket in the laser.
Whilst the pipework is sized enough to cool a nuclear reactor, it appears to be standard threads, so my plan is to replace this behemoth with a central heating pump. It may seem a massive step down, but a central heating pump is sill 80l/minute and the chillers on eBay are only 12l/min, so it's still more than required, but I have one available, so why not use it and there are normally three speed settings on the pump.
Next step is to understand the plumbing! It' getting clearer. As was pointed out in an earlier thread, this requires a cold water In and OUT, so a personal lake is required (or deep pockets for the water bill)
The valve (yellow handle) I think is a bypass to the temperature control which is the grey knob at the top of the picture on the left and measures the temperature in the white tank. The white tank is the circulating water for the laser.
I am guessing the grey plumbing fitting to bottom of the right hand picture is a one way valve as if I have worked out the connection correctly the connection has the filter, the outlet from the pump (to the laser) and the return from the laser!
With regards to my personal lake, I have a small car radiator (ex mini I think) and I plan to make a second pumped cooling circuit for the Water In/Water Out again with a small pump and install the radiator outside on the roof of the garage. This will again be a closed circuit, so if needs be I can use anti-freeze with little worry.
Finally, anybody recognise this sort of connector? It seems to be an electrical connection from the control box and I am guessing the on/off switch relates to it.
I'll keep you informed as this bodge progresses!
Cheers
Peter
So, I have now had a good look internally and have a bit of a plan. Firstly this motor/pump will have to go, apart from the fact it has a 13A starting current and 7A running, I worry that the pressure it probably runs at will damage the water jacket in the laser.
Whilst the pipework is sized enough to cool a nuclear reactor, it appears to be standard threads, so my plan is to replace this behemoth with a central heating pump. It may seem a massive step down, but a central heating pump is sill 80l/minute and the chillers on eBay are only 12l/min, so it's still more than required, but I have one available, so why not use it and there are normally three speed settings on the pump.
Next step is to understand the plumbing! It' getting clearer. As was pointed out in an earlier thread, this requires a cold water In and OUT, so a personal lake is required (or deep pockets for the water bill)
The valve (yellow handle) I think is a bypass to the temperature control which is the grey knob at the top of the picture on the left and measures the temperature in the white tank. The white tank is the circulating water for the laser.
I am guessing the grey plumbing fitting to bottom of the right hand picture is a one way valve as if I have worked out the connection correctly the connection has the filter, the outlet from the pump (to the laser) and the return from the laser!
With regards to my personal lake, I have a small car radiator (ex mini I think) and I plan to make a second pumped cooling circuit for the Water In/Water Out again with a small pump and install the radiator outside on the roof of the garage. This will again be a closed circuit, so if needs be I can use anti-freeze with little worry.
Finally, anybody recognise this sort of connector? It seems to be an electrical connection from the control box and I am guessing the on/off switch relates to it.
I'll keep you informed as this bodge progresses!
Cheers
Peter
