Lathe Apron - Paint for inside

[Martin-Sy]

Can anyone suggest a paint for the inside of a lathe apron?
Needs to be oil proof and easy to apply in what is quite a small space with restricted access.
It was originally painted but some of that's come off in the cleaning process and possibly as a result of exposure to suds that found it's way in and made a mess of things

 

[grim_d]

No need, you don't see it.

No need to paint any of it. Make chips, not artwork.

 

[Agroshield]

Traditionally, Glyptal paint was used in engines. Still available from Frost, but pricey, so maybe a search on 'Glyptal alternative' would help.

I would also consider a water-based epoxy paint (e.g. from Resincoat).

 

[Hopefuldave]

I used smoothrite (white, so the blood would stand out clearly), takes at least a week to dry fully hard but after that it seems to have stood up to lubricants and cutting oil, splashed solvents - only 6 years in, so early days

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[frank horton]

aint no paint on mine....just plenty of oily suds....so need.....

 

[pressbrake1]

A good epoxy paint
It’s good and correct practice to paint the inside of castings to seal any foundry sand etc

 

[Martin-Sy]

Well after much swithering (good word, thanks @Rannsachair ) I have decided to go for Resincoat IFP043 Epoxy as suggested by @Agroshield.
It's a water based 2 part epoxy, primarily intended as a floor paint, but also suitable for metals.
As far as I can tell this stuff is not horribly toxic like the stuff for cars. I've always assumed that all 2 part paints are nasty and avoided them.
Can anyone confirm this stuff is OK to use without a force ventilated mask?

I did look at Glyptal but its £80 from Frost in a tin which would be a lot more than I'd need.
Even so the Resincoat should have two coats and only has a 40min working time so I'm intending to split each of the components into smaller quantities.
Resincoat didn't recommend this, but did give the weights for each of parts and said I must stir each component before splitting.
All in all a right faff!

 

[RichardM]

I used smoothrite (white, so the blood would stand out clearly), takes at least a week to dry fully hard but after that it seems to have stood up to lubricants and cutting oil, splashed solvents - only 6 years in, so early days

Dave H. (the other one)

Looks like you've decided which way to go, but another vote for Smootherite. Sprayed the XT engine with it and it doesn't come off when I spill petrol on it (pinching some for lawn mower) or stain with chain lube. I might even try some on the lathe cabinet soon.

 

[Agroshield]

Can anyone confirm this stuff is OK to use without a force ventilated mask?

MSDS here:

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A well-ventilated area should suffice. Epoxy can cause skin irritation, so surgical gloves are a good idea.

If you cool it down in the fridge, the pot life is extended, but the viscosity increases. Your strategy of splitting it is good. Keep more than one spare brush on hand - it is very sticky and on cheap brushes they can become bald unexpectedly and that is not the time to be running around looking for a replacement.

 

[Martin-Sy]

Thanks for the tips @Agroshield. I will do the apron sump (a separate casting) and any other small bits first to get a feel for the stuff.
The inside of the main casting will be a challenge as access is limited! Will report back in due course.

@Hopefuldave and @RichardM Smoothrite has held up well on my Bantam which I rebuilt about 30 years ago, but I didn't need to paint the insides of bits that are oil filled.
Also I'm not sure if the formulation of Smoothrite is the same as it was then.

 

[Martin-Sy]

Well I won't make that choice that again!
I know it's a water based epoxy but I hadn't expected this:

Once mixed you have 40 minutes working time, so I went at it fairly quickly and a bit slapdash.
After a few minutes the brown streaks started to appear. I can only assume this is rust.
The casting was very clean with no trace of oil.

I know that it's not seen but it looks a b****** mess. Perhaps a second coat?
Anyone else used this stuff on cast iron?

 

[brightspark]

any enamel smoothrite is good

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I did mine in techoid primer all over then Tractor top coat outside. Held up well.

 

[Brad93]

Just a machinery enamel for me

 

[brightspark]

I did mine in techoid primer all over then Tractor top coat outside. Held up well.

tractol smith and allen do it good machine paint fast drying ass well

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

tractol smith and allen do it good machine paint fast drying ass well

Aye. Bloody spell checkers

 

[brightspark]

smith and allen can match all paints and costs about 20 quid a tin cant match myford and paragon charge about 35 quid

 

[Dieselman 63]

Well I won't make that choice that again!
I know it's a water based epoxy but I hadn't expected this:

View attachment 346170

Once mixed you have 40 minutes working time, so I went at it fairly quickly and a bit slapdash.
After a few minutes the brown streaks started to appear. I can only assume this is rust.
The casting was very clean with no trace of oil.

I know that it's not seen but it looks a b****** mess. Perhaps a second coat?
Anyone else used this stuff on cast iron?

Was a primer used? I go oil based machine enamel always prime no matter what the tin says.

 

[brightspark]

always use acid etch on anything decent

 

[Martin-Sy]

Was a primer used? I go oil based machine enamel always prime no matter what the tin says.

No. I expect that would have prevented it.
We live & learn