Loader repair

[English Steve]

I recently bought an old front end loader to fit on my tractor. The main arms are approx 30x200 pressed steel channel approx 6thk. When fitted, the 200 dimension is vertical. One of these arms is cracked across the top 30mm flange and approx half way down the side. My intention is to drill the end of the crack then Vee it out. Fully weld the Vee then dress back flush on the side and put a 6thk plate over which extends approx 100 each side of the crack and fully weld all round. I will also probably dress back the weld on the flange and plate this also.
I have an Inverter Fusion 160MA and usually use a 3.2mm general purpose rod for repairs around the farm. My question is, is there a more suitable rod for this type of repair, and is there a better repair method?
The loader is strictly for my own use, and will only be used occasionally to shift muck, hay, straw etc so will not be excessively loaded, but I want to do it right for the obvious safety reasons.

Regards

Steve

 

[snowcat]

Ok just to cover myself and not to patronize you Steve I would in no way ever touch lifting gear in any shape or form, I have not got Mil Loyd's insurance and am not coded with the correct BS code to do so......

OK with that said as its for your own use etc etc, Where are you talking when you say flange bottom pivot??? I'm guessing by the size of steal its a small loader probably without quick release frame... So around 1/2 ton lift??...

a 70 series rod would be my preferred rod depending on positioning.... A picture of the loader would be ideal, showing the cracks..... failing that a bit more info....

 

[English Steve]

Hi Snowcat, thanks for the reply.
Accept what you say about lifting gear and insurance etc. Your assumption is correct, it is a small loader and I would guess that 1/2 ton capacity may be about right based on the dimensions etc., and in any case my application will never get to that weight. There are no rating plates or anything left on it, and so far I have not been able to definately identify the make or model. No it's not on a quick release frame.
The crack is about 8" forward of the forward lifting ram mount, running from top downwards (the ram mount is on the bottom flange of the channel). There is no obvious distortion in the beam and the crack is not opened up. I have not been able to find any other cracks, which suprises me as most of the others I have looked at had cracks everywhere. The loader itself can be partially dismantled and laid on it's side to make the prep and welding easier - all horizontal.
Sorry, I don't have any photos at the moment, and won't be able to get any until the weekend, which is when I am hoping to do the repair.
If it goes OK I'll post some next week

Steve

 

[Drains]

Don't forget the preheat.

You agree Snowy?

 

[snowcat]

Don't forget the preheat.

You agree Snowy?

314 It mate, you dont need any then see T/As left you a mesage...

 

[snowcat]

In all serious Steve, 7018s with pre heat would be your best route, You wouldn't need to go mad with the preheat just take the chill off 200C is my new favorite figure......

V prep although it will probably end up more of a grove as your doing a crack but do your best to get 60degrees and open the toe width, widest point to around 10 mm, root in then grind and de slag, and build in multiple passes with a woven cap on the last, then bang your plate on should be fairly straight forward if you can get it all in the 1G...

 

[English Steve]

Thanks for the advice chaps, I'll give it a go and let you know what happens.