- Thread starter Fishyboy
- Start date
Anyone with a lathe and the time, or the right money for their time. But, beware, to do this right needs a mandrel to suit and a lathe big enough to hold it and the drum. Even then it’s not easy, due to the flexing of the drums. Are you sure you want to do this? Also you should somehow measure the thickness, just to be sure they are viable.
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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- Crete, Greece
I have one of these.....
made for the job....not officialy imported from the States....
Oh, I'm another 1000klm further south than Hants....but I would do em for free tho......
it's not the best job on a norm metal lathe, lots of probs with vibration and harmonic's messing up the surface finish...
I think Laycock or someone makes a disc brake skimmer, both of and on the car but never heard of a drum skimmer other than the AMMCO....
I bought my machine coz I work on a lot of vintage cars m/cycles and tractors where replacement drums are not available....
made for the job....not officialy imported from the States....
Oh, I'm another 1000klm further south than Hants....but I would do em for free tho......
it's not the best job on a norm metal lathe, lots of probs with vibration and harmonic's messing up the surface finish...
I think Laycock or someone makes a disc brake skimmer, both of and on the car but never heard of a drum skimmer other than the AMMCO....
I bought my machine coz I work on a lot of vintage cars m/cycles and tractors where replacement drums are not available....
Nomad
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- North Devon (for how long?)
Are they out of true or just worn?
I drive a lot of cars from the 70s and the drums often have a lip (the unworn part of the drum where the pad doesn't make contact) making it difficult to get the drums off over the shoes.
I've had good results using a flapwheel on an angle grinder to lightly remove the lip. It won't reskim the drums or fix out-of-true problems but it makes it a lot easier to get the drums off for servicing !
I drive a lot of cars from the 70s and the drums often have a lip (the unworn part of the drum where the pad doesn't make contact) making it difficult to get the drums off over the shoes.
I've had good results using a flapwheel on an angle grinder to lightly remove the lip. It won't reskim the drums or fix out-of-true problems but it makes it a lot easier to get the drums off for servicing !
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70s cars ,,, lol , Im doing that on 2000+ cars ,, now granted its usually just the handbrake drum on a combined disc drum set up , but it makes life a lot easier .Are they out of true or just worn?
I drive a lot of cars from the 70s and the drums often have a lip (the unworn part of the drum where the pad doesn't make contact) making it difficult to get the drums off over the shoes.
I've had good results using an angle grinder to lightly remove the lip. It won't reskim the drums or fix out-of-true problems but it makes it a lot easier to get the drums off for servicing !
Hi all,
I'm based in Hampshire. Before Xmas I had a drum break in two (see photo) and had complete failure. Since then I've managed to find four lightly used drums (two of which came off an Austin Atlantic) which really need the braking face cleaned up. I'm not sure how true the wheels are so I was hoping to find a machinist who could check the trueness and clean up/skim the drums. there is enough "meat" left on the drums which should allow a decent skim. I am just struggling to find some one to do the work.
Phil
I'm based in Hampshire. Before Xmas I had a drum break in two (see photo) and had complete failure. Since then I've managed to find four lightly used drums (two of which came off an Austin Atlantic) which really need the braking face cleaned up. I'm not sure how true the wheels are so I was hoping to find a machinist who could check the trueness and clean up/skim the drums. there is enough "meat" left on the drums which should allow a decent skim. I am just struggling to find some one to do the work.
Phil
Looks like a toy car..
@frank horton is correct of course, they can flex all over the place whilst trying to cut through the glazing. I’ve used a mounted die grinder in the past, but it’s a slow job. In fact, i’d Go as far as to say by the time you’ve made and skimmed the mandrel, and fitted a suitable clamp, and then skimmed/ground 4 of them you’ll be a day down (with dirty dust all over you and the machine), so I would say they need to be priced such that it’s worth the effort?
Gareth J
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Is there much point? Surely if there are grooves worn in, the pads will soon conform to those grooves. I had an old motorbike that had a really worn drum which only just allowed fairly recent brake shoes to bite. Then, you'd use them for a bit and have to ditch them as they'd be too far out of adjustment to work nicely. In the end, I carved it out and pushed/welded a ring in to bring it back into to tolerance so, unadjusted, new shoes just fitted in. Different machine. Long story short, I wouldn't remove material unless you really have to!
