- Thread starter delta66
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Richard.
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On the settings you quote above both those units are exactly the same. It’s just how they are laid out is different
Ac balance 10-90%
Ac frequency 30-200 hz
Slopes max out at 20sec iirc
Pulse 0.1-2000 hz
Gas pre flow Up to 10sec
Post flow I believe 25sec but operates on % depending of current if that makes sense. You can set it to where you like. Both power sources are completely programmable and adjustable.
Where the T220 is different is the other settings it offers.
Job mode, 2 ac wave shapes, mixed arc ac/dc, obviously 20 amps more and the panel is completely open to the settings where the HT the settings are in the menu.
Personally I say the HT200 is a great little machine because it does everything you could ever need and more.
If you don’t need the extra 20 amps offered by the T then the HT200 is going to be perfect for you.
I’m surprised more forum members don’t go for it because it’s quite a way off the price of other high end AC/DC tigs but it is a high end European built bit of kit.
I work for Lorch UK so if you want to ask me anything about these sets fire away.
Richard.
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The two pedals are just different in design and materials. They both work exactly the same. The red metal one is narrower and sits higher. It’s made of folded aluminium chequer plate so it’s a bit harder wearing. The black one is a hard moulded plastic. It’s much like the ssc pedal in design It’s very low and wide which I personally like a lot. It’s not as hard wearing as the metal one but unless you plan on drop kicking it about it’s plenty heavy duty enough for industrial purposes. Both pedals have very high quality potentiometers and smooth operating travel. They both plug straight into either machine and just work straight away. No settings changes etc.
I've got a HandyTig with the black FR32 pedal. I like this pedal over the FR35 because it's not as bulky and has a much lower profile so it more comfortable to use when sitting down. Don't make the mistake I made when I first got it and panic that it's the wrong pedal because the plug doesn't fit the socket on the front of the machine - there is a dedicated pedal socket at the back of the machine so that you can leave both the pedal and torch connected.
So far, on mild steel and aluminium, I've not really altered many of the parameters in the sub-menu because the pre-set percentages and time settings work well enough. I've had a play a few times but I've had more to gain by improving my technique than playing with machine settings. This has been a bonus for me in comparison to manual machines with lots of individual settings because it can be confusing to remember what settings are needed individually when changing material.
So far, on mild steel and aluminium, I've not really altered many of the parameters in the sub-menu because the pre-set percentages and time settings work well enough. I've had a play a few times but I've had more to gain by improving my technique than playing with machine settings. This has been a bonus for me in comparison to manual machines with lots of individual settings because it can be confusing to remember what settings are needed individually when changing material.
Richard.
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That’s exactly the point behind that panel. All the settings are still available to play with but they are in the sub menu out the way.
All you need to really do is plug in and weld. Cracking little sets for the money
Brad93
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Had my handytig 200 for about three years.
FR32 pedal is a beautiful pedal. Stable, comfortable to use all day. The aluminium pedal I think would sit too high and make my ankle/knee uncorftable after a while.
If you’re doing more aluminium, go for the T220 because that extra 20A is the difference between welding 5mm aluminium easily and not.
FR32 pedal is a beautiful pedal. Stable, comfortable to use all day. The aluminium pedal I think would sit too high and make my ankle/knee uncorftable after a while.
If you’re doing more aluminium, go for the T220 because that extra 20A is the difference between welding 5mm aluminium easily and not.
Brad93
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A few of the parts/pieces done with my HandyTig 200.
Machine probably gets 10-20 hours arc time a week, depending how much tig work I have on.
Never had an issue with it.
Machine probably gets 10-20 hours arc time a week, depending how much tig work I have on.
Never had an issue with it.
