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matt1978
www.lorch.eu
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Main difference is...
settings like AC Balance and Frequency are available on the front screen menu. On the BasicPlus they are available but within a sub menu.
controlpro has modulated AC (A mix arc which switches between AC and DC)
ControlPro has a memory function to save up to 100 personalised settings
BasicPlus offers pretty much everything anyone would ever want to change such as AC Balance, Freq, Pulse etc etc but these are accessed via a simple 2 button press sub menu
settings like AC Balance and Frequency are available on the front screen menu. On the BasicPlus they are available but within a sub menu.
controlpro has modulated AC (A mix arc which switches between AC and DC)
ControlPro has a memory function to save up to 100 personalised settings
BasicPlus offers pretty much everything anyone would ever want to change such as AC Balance, Freq, Pulse etc etc but these are accessed via a simple 2 button press sub menu
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Based on my evaluations when i bought my Handy TIG 200, I'd say there's not much difference, but it depends what you NEED.
HT200 vs T220 basicplus - you get 20 extra amps, and a slightly nicer graphic control panel.
HT200 vs T220 controlpro - you get 20 extra amps, a much nicer control panel, plus 100 job memory.
So if you know you'll be working with 6mm alloy quite a bit, then the extra amps would be highly desirable, although you CAN do it with 200 amps on the HT200. Lorch amps are hotter than some brands' amps
Or, if you know you'll be using the job memories - TBH this is what I'd like, as the HT200 only has 2 memory slots in TIG mode, and I'd probably have around 10 presets for the work that I do.
Some of these guys swear that the HT200 has a nicer AC arc than the T series, I've never tried it so not sure.
HT200 vs T220 basicplus - you get 20 extra amps, and a slightly nicer graphic control panel.
HT200 vs T220 controlpro - you get 20 extra amps, a much nicer control panel, plus 100 job memory.
So if you know you'll be working with 6mm alloy quite a bit, then the extra amps would be highly desirable, although you CAN do it with 200 amps on the HT200. Lorch amps are hotter than some brands' amps
Or, if you know you'll be using the job memories - TBH this is what I'd like, as the HT200 only has 2 memory slots in TIG mode, and I'd probably have around 10 presets for the work that I do.
Some of these guys swear that the HT200 has a nicer AC arc than the T series, I've never tried it so not sure.
So far I've mainly been welding 2mm aluminium with an ewm 300 comfort in work, but I want to do this from the house, there's plenty of work for it but it's the old bigger is better turning over in my head thing, I suppose with the t220 it opens up more possibilities
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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I used to think I needed 250 amps + too.
Well, after having an Esab Aristotig 250amp set for 7-8 years and using for all general farm projects/repair work, I "downgraded" to the Handy TIG 200, based on the reality that I never needed more than 200 amps for any job I did, and also that the Lorch amps were "hotter" than the Esab amps.
There's always ways to get around welding thicker alloy anyways, like a liberal pre-heat with a blowtorch, or using helium mix. I've not needed to resort to any of that yet, in fact I have no desire to faff around with that. Anything very heavy can be done with 400amp pulse MIG instead.
Your EWM set will be barely trying on 2mm alloy
welding 3mm alloy butt joints on the Lorch with around 90-100 amps max.
Well, after having an Esab Aristotig 250amp set for 7-8 years and using for all general farm projects/repair work, I "downgraded" to the Handy TIG 200, based on the reality that I never needed more than 200 amps for any job I did, and also that the Lorch amps were "hotter" than the Esab amps.
There's always ways to get around welding thicker alloy anyways, like a liberal pre-heat with a blowtorch, or using helium mix. I've not needed to resort to any of that yet, in fact I have no desire to faff around with that. Anything very heavy can be done with 400amp pulse MIG instead.
Your EWM set will be barely trying on 2mm alloy
welding 3mm alloy butt joints on the Lorch with around 90-100 amps max.
Brad93
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It’s a very difficult choice between a EWM and Lorch TIG, both German, both high quality, both weld lovely.
But for me Lorch service, the simplicity of the interface and the people at Lorch turn the tide.
I, like @Munkul have a HandyTig 200. Personally I find the AC arc is softer on the HandyTig 200 to the T220, which I prefer.
But obviously the HandyTig has a few less amps and features. For what I do the HandyTig covers 95%.
If I have to weld thick alloy I use the S3 MIG, which is a whole different kettle of fish, not much touches the Saprom range for simplicity, welding quality and features. You’d have to go to a very expensive Fronius with a fancy torch to get a better result on aluminium. Stainless and Mild Steel the Speedpulse XT range is the clear leader.
I tried a T300Pro the other week, really, really nice machine. Interface is so simple and intuitive.
Our work will hopefully be buying a V30 soon so will be able to report on that at some point.
But for me Lorch service, the simplicity of the interface and the people at Lorch turn the tide.
I, like @Munkul have a HandyTig 200. Personally I find the AC arc is softer on the HandyTig 200 to the T220, which I prefer.
But obviously the HandyTig has a few less amps and features. For what I do the HandyTig covers 95%.
If I have to weld thick alloy I use the S3 MIG, which is a whole different kettle of fish, not much touches the Saprom range for simplicity, welding quality and features. You’d have to go to a very expensive Fronius with a fancy torch to get a better result on aluminium. Stainless and Mild Steel the Speedpulse XT range is the clear leader.
I tried a T300Pro the other week, really, really nice machine. Interface is so simple and intuitive.
Our work will hopefully be buying a V30 soon so will be able to report on that at some point.
The lorch has started paying for itself, 80 of these to do in my garage, I had 20 large frames to weld last week struggled a little last week with settings ect, changed tungsten type, only ever welded aluminium rarely in work with a tig we have pulsed migs which serve a purpose some small changes can make a noticeable difference,
Brad93
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With the aluminium, there is a setting in the background menu, I forget what it’s called now. Possibly 11P.
What this does is changes the amount of DCEP on start up that is meant to automatically ball the tungsten.
Not so useful on outside corners but if you turn it down to about 50, it keeps a sharp tungsten with a tiny little ball on the tip.
Really useful on inside corners.
What this does is changes the amount of DCEP on start up that is meant to automatically ball the tungsten.
Not so useful on outside corners but if you turn it down to about 50, it keeps a sharp tungsten with a tiny little ball on the tip.
Really useful on inside corners.
Pigeon traps brad, as far as the tungsten goes I was using thoriated that we use all the time in work but we mainly weld in dc, this site is full of information, I got a pack of zirconiated given to me by my local suppliers along with 2 gold tip and 2 purple that I have yet to try as soon as I said they were for me he gave me them top guy
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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That's useful to know! Mine's still on factory setting of 100% and no complaints, maybe balls to 1mm diameter, but now you've got me wanting to experiment a bit with it.
Got to say I've been getting some hours done with my new Lorch and after a day yesterday using the works te175 thermal arc I forgot just how bad it was, main gripe so far with the Lorch is the back round amps if that's what you call it is on a second switch, I prefer the ewm and prweld version of it all on one switch
When I eventually get round to going with a cooler can this be operated from a single switch
When I eventually get round to going with a cooler can this be operated from a single switch
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
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That’s our torch design, not the machine. If you put “A” other torch on you can wire it to work how you like but on single button I2 which is the current your taking about is only there for if your using Pulse as I2 is where you set the pulse background value.
On a single button torch I don’t think you can access the secondary current but I imagine that to be the same on anyone’s machine.
what don’t you like about the I2 on a separate button? The idea behind it is that you can pre set a welding value to access in 4T mode for example if you’ve ran out of wire but you have some close at hand so you click the 2nd button it accesses the lower I2 value to allow you to get the other wire without stopping and without welding at full amps (of course only relevant without a foot switch)
If it’s a case that your finding that your are catching it by mistake and it’s annoying then just set I2 value to 100% and there won’t be any diff to the main welding current
On a single button torch I don’t think you can access the secondary current but I imagine that to be the same on anyone’s machine.
what don’t you like about the I2 on a separate button? The idea behind it is that you can pre set a welding value to access in 4T mode for example if you’ve ran out of wire but you have some close at hand so you click the 2nd button it accesses the lower I2 value to allow you to get the other wire without stopping and without welding at full amps (of course only relevant without a foot switch)
If it’s a case that your finding that your are catching it by mistake and it’s annoying then just set I2 value to 100% and there won’t be any diff to the main welding current
