Making shaft collar smaller? Easy on a lathe?

[Submariner1]

I want to reduce the current O.D. Of a bright steel shaft collar from 80mm to 73mm i.e. 7 mm less diameter
It really only needs to be slimmed down 6mm out of the total 20mm thickness. To miss these 2 pins that are raised about 3mm high.
(Making a sleeve to remove bearings).
Q1 Is it easy for a machinist to skim that 3.5mm deep x 6mm up the collar off? i.e. they would have to hold it in the lathe jaws over just less than 14mm, is that enough?
Q2. Would the grub screw hole, be a problem i.e. damage the cutter, sort of snag it?
(as you can guess I have never used a lathe).

Q3. Any idea what ££ one would have to pay to have this done?

Q4. I have an M12 course pitch, A2 Stainless Steel 100mm Bolt and an M12 A2 Long Nut 36mm x M12 - would that be strong enough to pull out and pull in these 47mm OD x 14mm thick bearings? Are you supposed to oil the steel bearing housing before pulling in a bearing to stop it rusting in?
(Note its on a Lawnmower that gets jet washed around the blade say every 2 weeks).

Obviously if its expensive to machine, I could just grind off an indentation with an angle grinder. Prefer not to go that way, incase it rotates and I blindly crush the raised pin.

Photo Standard bearing Shaft Collar I.D. 50mm O.D. 80mm thickness 20mm . - with grub screw.

 

[Hood]

Would just take minutes to do on a lathe especially if they have a small chuck so they could grip internally. As for cost, if you were near me I would do it for free but think you are a wee bit too far away and cost of post both ways would be more than someone local would likely be to do it.
Regarding the oil, wouldn't harm but likely wouldn't help either.
M12 would be plenty strong to pull the bearing out.

 

[Bsmith]

As Hood says, I could do it no problem, but carriage and waiting? You would only need a step off the outside to avoid the pins or I could reduce whole outer edge if preferred.
Think if I couldn't get someone local to do it I would be looking at something else like a slice of pipe and thick washer or big socket etc to act as a spacer?

 

[Dilkris]

I am not the brightest bear in the woods so I'm a bit confused here. Am I right in thinking that you simply wish to change the 47mm OD bearings and in doing so intend to buy, and then modify, by machining on a lathe, a standard bearing shaft collar (I.D. 50mm, O.D. 80mm, thickness 20mm, which has a grub screw), to simply assist in removing the bearings?

If so, I think you are over thinking it and I am on "Bsmith's team", I don't believe you need to buy or machine anything. Can you post another picture of the other side of the assembly holding the bearing? (This looks like part of a clutch assembly or the pullcord mechanism - is it??)

Post a couple of more pictures and just ask "how do I remove and replace this bearing....?" - you will be flooded with solutions.

PS: Jet washing around bearings is not cool.....

 

[bricol]

Are you reusing the bearings? If not, turn it over and smack 'em out - or if you want to do it slowly, press them out in a vice - small socket against the inner, pushing the outer into a bigger socket.

If you want to reuse them, don't use force on the inner race!

 

[Submariner1]

Would just take minutes to do on a lathe especially if they have a small chuck so they could grip internally. As for cost, if you were near me I would do it for free but think you are a wee bit too far away and cost of post both ways would be more than someone local would likely be to do it.
Regarding the oil, wouldn't harm but likely wouldn't help either.
M12 would be plenty strong to pull the bearing out.

Many thanks for your advice and very kind offer.
The collar arrived today and a local guy said he could skim it for a tenner..

 

[Submariner1]

As Hood says, I could do it no problem, but carriage and waiting? You would only need a step off the outside to avoid the pins or I could reduce whole outer edge if preferred.
Think if I couldn't get someone local to do it I would be looking at something else like a slice of pipe and thick washer or big socket etc to act as a spacer?

Thanks,
the collar arrived and with a skim would do both bearings nicely. (works for both plates)
Appreciate the kind offer but have a local eng. co who will do it for £10. So as you say return postage etc. ...

 

[Submariner1]

I am not the brightest bear in the woods so I'm a bit confused here. Am I right in thinking that you simply wish to change the 47mm OD bearings and in doing so intend to buy, and then modify, by machining on a lathe, a standard bearing shaft collar (I.D. 50mm, O.D. 80mm, thickness 20mm, which has a grub screw), to simply assist in removing the bearings?

If so, I think you are over thinking it and I am on "Bsmith's team", I don't believe you need to buy or machine anything. Can you post another picture of the other side of the assembly holding the bearing? (This looks like part of a clutch assembly or the pullcord mechanism - is it??)

Post a couple of more pictures and just ask "how do I remove and replace this bearing....?" - you will be flooded with solutions.

PS: Jet washing around bearings is not cool.....

Yes thats the job, but with a little tiny mod this collar will do all the bearings in 3 different plates ( very funny shapes )
Its the Rotostop ... clutch and brake combined.
4 unusual shaped plates, different on every side, requiring different sizes, in order bear down on a flat surface, and miss bumps and pins and welds etc.
This collar once modded, will do all of them In conjunction with a bearing and seal kit I have.
at £6 its cheaper than big sockets (that I do not have), and would not work well on the curved raised surface on 2 of the plates.
These plates are like £115, £85, £79 etc ... - one could buy a reasonable cheapo mower for less than this blade brake and combined clutch In parts.
This way I can safely, and gently pull out and pull in these bearings for £6, and £9.

 

[Submariner1]

Are you reusing the bearings? If not, turn it over and smack 'em out - or if you want to do it slowly, press them out in a vice - small socket against the inner, pushing the outer into a bigger socket.

If you want to reuse them, don't use force on the inner race!noisey

Hi
I am not re-using the bearings, one is starting to be graunching, the other a little noisy spun by hand, but in idle mode sounds horrible. Shipped both are £19 incl. posting, so the work to get to them, and clean it down etc tbh even if they sounded ok I would change em, while you are there.
Both of the main bearing‘s outer races are totally concealed, so its either bash them out on the inner race, or pull on it. So in my opinion unless one just slid out ... they are not reusable once pressed only on the inner race.
Sods law every big ish socket I have is either too small, or hits some protruding part of the plates.
And > 50mm sockets are a lot more than a £6 Collar.
I normally waxyol the underdeck inclu the sides of the plates in spring, and jet wash under the deck every other week. But by the nature of a semi-watered lawn, weed and feed (evil stuff on kit) .. etc. I am gobsmacked they lasted 14 years! And the plates are in OKish condition for its age.
If I had known about waxyol for the first 11 years .. the whole lot would look like new!

I know one shouldnt jet wash around this area, but unwashed the plates look like this, mud, grass juice and weed and feed.
waxyoled they just rinse off pretty instantly.
Obviously I make sure to avoid direct spray or even reflected spray going near the gap that leads to the lower engine bearing seal area.

The lower crankshaft still looks in reasonable condition. Well not too rusty.
And sprayin oil seems to have stopped the weed and feed turning the base of the engine into that white oxide mess.

 

[Dilkris]

Many thanks for your advice and very kind offer.
The collar arrived today and a local guy said he could skim it for a tenner

Then you are home and dry !! Let us know how it goes. How easily the bearings come out will be an indication of how much effort will be required to fit the new ones - interesting and effective use of wax oil

 

[Agroshield]

Just as a suggestion for future generations: once you have the bearing out, file two semi-circular notches in the cup that retains the bearing (maybe 5mm diameter). This will allow the next person to get a drift onto the outer race of the bearing to remove it.

 

[Dilkris]

Totally agree with Agroshield - if you don't like filing, drill a couple of holes that are big enough to get a pin punch in.

 

[Submariner1]

Then you are home and dry !! Let us know how it goes. How easily the bearings come out will be an indication of how much effort will be required to fit the new ones - interesting and effective use of wax oil

Local engineering Co. skimmed a tad off while I waited , 4 mins
works perfectly both bearing came out smoothly and straight ( with the home made puller) with no effort.
i did squirt penetrating oil on them while ai waited for the collar.

Just waiting for new parts and I am back in business.

 

[Submariner1]

My adaptable home made bearing puller.

Really just a set of bearing drifts a M12 A4 - 70 110mm bolts and a Long nut 36mm x M12.
Worth it for the future plus I have 8 wheel bearings to do, and 2 on the drive shaft.
These discs cover pretty much any bearing on this lawnmower.
It worth it for me, working in nice weather means you dont have to wait for buts to do the job and can get it back working before the grass grows like mad.

 

[Submariner1]

Just as a suggestion for future generations: once you have the bearing out, file two semi-circular notches in the cup that retains the bearing (maybe 5mm diameter). This will allow the next person to get a drift onto the outer race of the bearing to remove it.

No need now, the home made bearing puller, pulls the bearings in and out like butter, and by packing either side with the right size discs it centers the bearing on both sides, seems to work a treat.

 

[Hood]

No need now, the home made bearing puller, pulls the bearings in and out like butter, and by packing either side with the right size discs it centers the bearing on both sides, seems to work a treat.

One thing to consider however is if the bearing breaks up, you will then not have the inner race to pull on and having holes to allow a punch in to act on the outer race would be handy. Then again this is a welding forum so if that did happen then a quick run round the inside of the outer race with a weld will have it falling out once the weld contracts

 

[James1979]

Glad you found a solution.

you probably know but stainless likes to heat seize. if you oil the threads a touch then you will lessen the risk of that creating you another problem

 

[Screwdriver]

You should buy a lathe.