making some kayak roof bar mounts (J hooks)

[6ply]

I bought a couple of used kayaks and after a sketchy drive home with them strapped to the car trailer I would like to weld up some J hooks.

They don't need to look anything like the example shown below. A single pipe with two bends would be adequate, welded to a steel plate. I'd probably weld loops on each end to secure the straps.
My preferred option is to use whatever steel stock I have to hand and wrap in pipe lagging.

I happen to have a few lengths of mild steel tube that could do with getting used up, but how will I get decent looking bends without crushing the tube? I have a propane torch and no. 5 fly press. No hydraulic tube bender. We have a stand-type bender (for conduit?) at work.

 

[Redsailor]

If your tubing is the same diameter and wall thickness as conduit then the bender would do the job. Your tube wall thickness looks to be a little too much for a conduit bender to cope with though. Otherwise the usual trick is to weld a capping piece on one end of the steel tube fill with sand and firm it down and then weld up the open end. The tube should be longer than the finished item, so you have enough to hold and pull the bend. Heat up to a nice red colour and bend it by hand round a former of suitable radius. For a one off job you might get away with a timber former if nothing else is available. Then cut off the ends to the length required.

I am just about to make a luggage rack for my new motorbike using the above method. Have a look on you tube, there are videos showing the technique and tricks involved.

 

[Blobber]

A very very long time ago we used a block of wood with a shaped hole through it to bend conduit, that may be an option to make something like that, dont ask me for pictures or details it was years ago!

 

[bigegg]

That tube is _way_ overkill for the application. It will be a pig to bend and 3x more weight than it needs to be.

For the price of 20mm galv conduit, I'd buy a couple of lengths of that.

If you _must_ use this pipe, use a cut 'n' bend technique, or miter it?

 

[6ply]

If your tubing is the same diameter and wall thickness as conduit then the bender would do the job. Your tube wall thickness looks to be a little too much for a conduit bender to cope with though. Otherwise the usual trick is to weld a capping piece on one end of the steel tube fill with sand and firm it down and then weld up the open end. The tube should be longer than the finished item, so you have enough to hold and pull the bend. Heat up to a nice red colour and bend it by hand round a former of suitable radius. For a one off job you might get away with a timber former if nothing else is available. Then cut off the ends to the length required.

I am just about to make a luggage rack for my new motorbike using the above method. Have a look on you tube, there are videos showing the technique and tricks involved.

Agree with your comment on too much for a conduit bender. I hadn't considered making a wooden former. I know a steel former would be better, but it's a lot of work for what should be a quick job. Thanks.

 

[6ply]

That tube is _way_ overkill for the application. It will be a pig to bend and 3x more weight than it needs to be.

For the price of 20mm galv conduit, I'd buy a couple of lengths of that.

If you _must_ use this pipe, use a cut 'n' bend technique, or miter it?

What thickness is the conduit? I'm assuming it's quite thin. I'm limited to arc welding only and can grind the galv off.

 

[6ply]

That tube is _way_ overkill for the application. It will be a pig to bend and 3x more weight than it needs to be.

For the price of 20mm galv conduit, I'd buy a couple of lengths of that.

If you _must_ use this pipe, use a cut 'n' bend technique, or miter it?

Overkill, yes. It's just what I happen to have in my odds rack. I'd rather use it up on something.

 

[bigegg]

What thickness is the conduit? I'm assuming it's quite thin. I'm limited to arc welding only and can grind the galv off.

It's about ?1mm?

I can stick weld it without too much difficulty.

 

[bigegg]

If I'm using conduit for welding projects, I prefer to pickle it in brick acid to remove the zinc - removes from the inside as well.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

Putting my "longtime canoeist and former kayaking coach and raft guide until I trashed my shoulder muscles" hat on:

Do you actually need J-bars?

Palm Equipment have a neat little post on securing kayaks to the roof, if you're new to it.

With the exception of fragile composite sea-kayaks (what J-bars are made for) or Marathon/Sprint racing kayaks (use V-bars with extensions) it's generally easier, more secure, and generates less force on the roof rack and boat during driving to secure kayaks using normal uprights...

Also, using uprights you can secure two boats to one side leaving the other free for bikes, or a narrow roof box.

Or fit more boats on, like a pro:

There's at least one spare set of uprights in the shed you could have for the cost of postage.

 

[6ply]

Putting my "longtime canoeist and former kayaking coach and raft guide until I trashed my shoulder muscles" hat on:

Do you actually need J-bars?

Palm Equipment have a neat little post on securing kayaks to the roof, if you're new to it.

With the exception of fragile composite sea-kayaks (what J-bars are made for) or Marathon/Sprint racing kayaks (use V-bars with extensions) it's generally easier, more secure, and generates less force on the roof rack and boat during driving to secure kayaks using normal uprights...

View attachment 470930

Also, using uprights you can secure two boats to one side leaving the other free for bikes, or a narrow roof box.

Or fit more boats on, like a pro:
View attachment 470929

There's at least one spare set of uprights in the shed you could have for the cost of postage.

That's a very helpful post, thanks.

I can knock up a vertical upright easily enough. To be continued, when I get around to it...