Metal or plastic euro torch liner?

[Trevorleach]

Problems with welder juddering, so ordered new torch liner and a plastic one turned up, went to change it and the one I removed is metal like a bowden cable outer.
Will the plastic one do the same job?

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

If it's a PTFE liner (white, kinda greasy feeling to the touch), they're generally preferred for wire that doesn't feed smoothly (as well as preventing contamination).

I have never heard of other plastics being used as liners only metal or PTFE

 

[hotponyshoes]

Liners have size ranges so make sure it's suitable for the wire size you are using.
A plastic liner will be fine to check the feed issues.
If you are using steel wire then a steel liner will last longer than a plastic one.

I have never heard of other plastics being used as liners only metal or PTFE

There are a few types of 'plastic' liner apart from ptfe like polyamide, carbon, etc.
There does not seem to be any standard for the color coding either!

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

There are a few types of 'plastic' liner apart from ptfe like polyamide, carbon, etc.
There does not seem to be any standard for the color coding either!

That makes sense, but I hadn't come across them.

Yes the colour coding is actively worse than useless with the lack of consistency between liner manufacturers.

 

[minimutly]

My 30 yr old mig is still on the steel liner it had when I bought it. Occasionally I flush out the rusty contents with carb cleaner, good as new for another few years. I wouldn't use plastic of any kind, personally.

 

[Memmeddu]

My 30 yr old mig is still on the steel liner it had when I bought it. Occasionally I flush out the rusty contents with carb cleaner, good as new for another few years. I wouldn't use plastic of any kind, personally.

On aluminum you have to use PTFE

 

[Trevorleach]

Thanks for the replies, fitted the new liner, thing still judders sometimes, so tried my own good spare euro torch and still the same results.
Also getting burnback and the odd melted tip.
It is almost like you pull the trigger and the wire takes a second to get up to speed.
Seems okayish on the bench, but as soon as you are out of position the troubles start.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Check the wire drum. Make sure the wire is coiled properly and you don't have a coil laying over the bit that's feeding out.

Check the drum rotates freely by hand. Leave the wire in place but lift the feed rollers and see if you can spin the drum and feed wire ok manually.

If the above are ok then pull the trigger while the roller(s) are still lifted and see if the drive is running smoothly.

Depending where the drive power comes from in your welder it might also be worth checking the power connector to the rear of the Euro socket and the earth connection as well

 

[Morris]

What @hotponyshoes said. Just had the same with my welder, the drum was jammed almost solid due to Sealey's rubbish tension control.

 

[Trevorleach]

Just having a butty then will check all things mentioned.
Just welded on some gate runner track to the bottom of an electric gate, again easy to get at welds okay ish though not pretty, underside weldsjuddery with burnback, and loads of slag sticking to the tip and shroud, driving me nuts!

 

[Trevorleach]

We have sussed it, had it all stripped out, checked wire feed as suggested above, worked fine but seemed to grunt harder when you swung the tension device into place, wheels/gears bit corroded, clean and lube the bushes/spindles and it seemed to run much smoother, then my workmate noticed the brass guide than runs from the last roller was rubbing the drive wheel, and when I screwed the torch in it pushed the brass guide further into the drive wheels which made the motor grunt even more, remove guide hack off 6mm refit and it is way way better, hells bells I can actually weld with it, then they tell me the titbit of info that when they bought it, it had a much larger torch (mb36?) on it and they fitted the MB25 one onto it, and every mechanic/welder before me over the last 5 plus years has said what a crap welder!

Pics of welder, pic of said drive roller with the 6mm cut off, and pic of my current job, which they have stolen off me to paint the cab, so, now I have a poxy clutch to do next, and it has a bloody retarder, which by the way is leaking and needs resealing when the box is off.