metallic cellulose paint

[natboy]

Hi Folks
Im going to start welding and painting my cortina over the summer but im unsure of how to apply metallic cellulose paint.Do i do 3 coats of base and then apply the clear coat and then a thinned down coat of clear coat and then cut and polish? Any advise would be great. cheers

 

[ford34/2]

Metallic cellulose does what it says on the can, so primer, undercoat, flat, on with the top coat or coats, cut and polish if you cant get a good finish off the gun, pretty old fashioned paint by modern day standards. What Mk Cortina ???
I think you got base/clear mixed up with cellulose

Stan

 

[the snooper]

If you are using lacquer you don't want to br using cellulose metallic you need polyester base coat

 

[steveo3002]

and if youre planning to use single pack laquer you might as well stop there , its rubbish and you will be sanding it off once its gone yellow and cracked all over the place

 

[jimmyspeed]

if you do go ahead with the cellulose i can recommended HMG paints - if you log in to their website you can select about 50000 colours for mixing theres all the big and small manufacturers. I bought mine from a dealer in andover but there are cheaper suppliers online like colourweld and i think Doncaster paint supplies.

 

[gulf]

Use a celly base and clear with 2pack for a lastingshine(once youre happy with the metallic base youve applied).Celly lacquer needs alot of time consuming coats built up to give a shine anywhere as nice as a couple of coats in 2k gives.

 

[richie00boy]

I'll try and clarify a few things

Cellulose colour - this is intended to be a single stage product, you don't lacquer over it.

Base coat + 1k lacquer (clear coat) - the base coat is polyester and you apply a lacquer (clear coat) over it. Both of these products are single pack and so can sometimes be wrongly referred to as cellulose.

Base coat + 2k lacquer (clear coat) - the base coat is the same as above, but the lacquer is a 2 pack product. The 2 pack product is more durable, but can be less forgiving to the novice and has more hazardous ingredients.

2k colour - this is intended to be a single stage product. Basically similar properties to the 2k lacquer, but it's coloured.

Now, you mention cellulose metallic. I have seen a couple of sellers touting this on ebay. I would not recommend it at all as it is almost impossible to correct any flaws. If you try to flat it you reveal metallic particles and it goes blotchy. It would be OK for a quick repair on a beat up old car, but not a restoration. Even if you were to lacquer over it, it's not really designed for that and you would be better off buying proper basecoat and lacquer.

 

[richie00boy]

Use an epoxy primer to cover your repaired panel as it will seal against the different substrates and you won't then need to apply loads of base coat to get even coverage. Apply 2 or 3 coats of base then 3 lacquer if 1k. If using 2k you need to follow the specific coating method the manufacturer recommends or you might get problems.

Remember to get a good mask! Moldex do an ABEK1 rated half mask that should see you safe for the epoxy primer.

I recommend U-Pol 1k Acrylic Smart Clear lacquer if you don't want to use 2k lacquer. Cellulose lacquer has a bad name, but this u-pol acrylic lacquer is better.

 

[Flapdisk]

I have recently sprayed my Toyota Carina with Silver metallic cellulose as that was what was on the car. Epoxy primer first especially if there are any bare metal repairs or you have sanded through, finish with Upol single component clear.