mig for car work?

[sup]

Hi folks,
For years I have been welding my old classics I drive with an old Clarke turbo gas/no gas using flux cored 0.8mm SIP wire from Halfords.
I have a classic mini project that will require lots of welding so I want to make the job easier and have less grinding.
I always struggle to get good welds and find puddle welds the most messy, they never seem to work well, I end up having to grind lots.
I only work on cars so I don't need something to weld heavy steel. Most of the welders seem to be way over the top for my needs with welding from 1mm-5-10mm, I just need enough to do car work I think the max would be 3mm but mostly 1mm work.
I am considering the sealey supermig 180 but it really is much more than I think I need, it is certainly a big bit of kit to lug around my garage. I have looked at inverter welders but not convinced about the durability.
My crappy welds are a combo of me and old equipment, I don't have anywhere to go test another welder so I really can't judge what to get.
What would you folks recommend?
Cheers

 

[Craig-SM]

Look at the lower amp settings for what you need in doing panel work. As you say it won't be often that you are doing the thicker material. I would also be looking at gas instead of gasless to get consistent welds. Using Argon/CO2 provides a better result that just CO2 at lower amps.

I would still be looking up to 180 amps in machine but making sure you have budgeted for gas too. I also find a longer torch lead useful too as you're not moving the welder around as much. Some sellers like Rtech if you call them will allow you to swap and change leads to suit your requirements without changing the cost too much.

 

[mdr]

Welcome!


The debate over "which MIG?" will never end. The short two cent answer (based on the inverter MIG idea) I can give is:

• Clarke gas welder that has amps that go as low as possible. Cheap and has some recommendations on here. You can get parts. It's popular so troubleshooting and support here is available.
• Middle of the road MIG like a Thermal Arc 181. Multi process so handy if you need that.
• Top end is Kemppi MinarcMig Evo 200 that offers automatic and manual modes - try what it suggests or fiddle yourself.

Pros and cons to all. You can go cheap, or venture into the middle ground to bag a bargain. Or pay more with the total aim of never needing to fight the machine and just get on welding.

Remember: If you get a brand name and it does not work out, as long as you keep it clean and dry, you'll have a good chance of selling it on. For example the Kemppi MinarcMig Evo 200 is just over a grand new. However, second hand you could sell it for £600-£700 after a year (clean, minty version at least). Hence if you can get a few hundred pounds out of it in a year or two it's sort of not cost a lot.

 

[Nick DV]

Hi & welcome

I recently sold a Sealey s/mig 150 and it was great for thin stuff, so if you go to the 180 amp, it will give you a bit more punch if you ever go thicker. I've now sold that and purchased an Oxford 240 amp mig, and that goes as low as 20 amps which will make it great for thin car work. Oxfords's a great mig, transformer and they have great resale value.

If you're looking for a 180 mig then have a look at https://www.weldingsuppliesdirect.c...-phase-compact-migmaker-180-1-mig-welder.html and or contact @Tom Orrow L on this forum. it comes with regulator and a decent torch, so only gas and wire required

 

[sup]

Thanks folks,
Appreciate the advice, just so many choices out there.
A longer cable would save me having to drag a welder to the other side of the car.
How much difference does a binzel torch make?

 

[Nick DV]

I'm a mere novice compared to most people on the forum, but I've got the 4m Evo Pro torch that WSD supplied with the mig, and it's a massive improvement over the Sealey one (I never had a problem with it), it feels so well made and it's just so nice to use

 

[a111r]

Clarkes are good for car work and they last a long time.
Why not just refurbish it, mainly the torch (there are various option here).
Then use gas, not flux core. Specifically an Argon/CO2 mix e.g. Hobbyweld 5.

 

[Burdekin]

Turn it up.

Tig or Oxy if you want less grinding, but ideally you need to be able to planish the weld after to remove any distortion.

 

[Rrobson]

I use a Clarke 160en turbo with gas option, with 0.8mm wire and 5% co2 / argon mix. Setting 1 min or 1 max depending.

produces half reasonable welds when the winds not blowing all the gas away! Here’s a shot of my current project

 

[eddie49]

I always struggle to get good welds and find puddle welds the most messy, they never seem to work well.

What size hole are you drilling/punching for the plug ( puddle ) welds? I would suggest 8mm. Photos of these and other welds would help us to offer the correct advice.

 

[Mr Roo]

I run a heap of different welders.

when it comes to car bodywork like you’re planning to do, i’d recommend a GYS smartmig 142. Buy yourself a decent torch and a heap of consumables, and get a longer earth lead before even looking at welding anything.

have used those wee GYS machines for loads of car jobs over the years: well worth their weight and i’d say they beat the Clarkes hands down.

 

[a111r]

I run a heap of different welders.

when it comes to car bodywork like you’re planning to do, i’d recommend a GYS smartmig 142. Buy yourself a decent torch and a heap of consumables, and get a longer earth lead before even looking at welding anything. have used those wee GYS machines for loads of car jobs over the years: well worth their weight and i’d say they beat the Clarkes hands down.

I also have a GYS, the Smartmig 3P which does MMA 140 Amps and MIG 170 Amps. Not used it much yet but both process run very nicely.