Hi. Very new here. I have a mig master 130 (auto jack). A couple of months ago I had issues with the circuit board. Long story short. Got a replacement, but now can't recall where all the wires go. One of the members (jmh474) posted some pictures which solved some - thanks!. Can I please ask for pictures showing the connections on the on/off button. At the minute I got a few leads I'm not sure where these go - fan leads, the 2 red cables from the circuit board. One is thicker than the other. Any help will be most appreciated. Thanks.
- Thread starter Squire
- Start date
Hello and welcome !
The OP on the thread that you referred to has not been on the Forum for over a year.
With it's fully-variable power control, the AutoJack is an interesting MIG welder. I have not seen any postings on here from other owners of this machine. If you post photos of the area where you need to locate the connections, we may be able to make some suggestions.
The OP on the thread that you referred to has not been on the Forum for over a year.
With it's fully-variable power control, the AutoJack is an interesting MIG welder. I have not seen any postings on here from other owners of this machine. If you post photos of the area where you need to locate the connections, we may be able to make some suggestions.
Hi Guys. ok.... I hope I make sense. The cables with the green and blue dots come from the pc. The cable marked with the green dot is a little smaller in diameter.
The cable with the yellow dot comes from the transformer. All these I believe are connected to the on/off switch marked in pink.
The other side of the transformer (also marked in yellow) I connected it to the pc board.
I connected the cable (plug) from the flux wire feeder to the point marked with the red arrow and the hand held trigger to the yellow arrow.
Any help will be appreciated. Cheers.
The cable with the yellow dot comes from the transformer. All these I believe are connected to the on/off switch marked in pink.
The other side of the transformer (also marked in yellow) I connected it to the pc board.
I connected the cable (plug) from the flux wire feeder to the point marked with the red arrow and the hand held trigger to the yellow arrow.
Any help will be appreciated. Cheers.
First the easy bit: your arrangement of the white multi-pin plugs is correct. It corresponds to the layout in photo 3 of post #8 in the earlier "AutoJack 130" welder thread:
I guess those plugs will only fit one way anyway.
The mains input cable is Brown = Live, Blue = Neutral, and White = Earth. Live and Neutral go to the input side of the double-pole On/Off switch. The output side of the switch has two each of Live and Neutral outputs, the pairs of pins are connected together with push-on flat metal plates. Nearest the camera, the first Live output pin has a spade tag with a thin black wire connected. There is also a spade tag with a thin black wire near to the corresponding first Neutral output pin, but that spade tag does not appear to be pushed on yet? Or are there three output pins in a column at the Neutral side of the switch? Or maybe that female spade tag has a male piggyback pin ?
( Where do these two thin black wires go? Perhaps it is to a fan? If so, and the fan is marked 230v, it would be right that they go to L and N at the switch.)
My guess is that the thick Blue-dot wire goes to Live ( brown feed at the switch, nearest to the camera ), the thin Green-dot wire goes to Neutral ( blue feed, further in ), and the Yellow-dot wire from the transformer goes to the Neutral as well.
I think this is correct. To confirm, I have invited the other owner of an AutoJack Migmaster 130 - @Jmh474 - to assist us in a private message, you are also copied in the conversation.
Flux core welder modification plus a big hello
So this is a little bit of two post's into one, I'm new to the forum so a big hello to every one, quite new to welding done some in the past but is been a few years. I'm a sparky by trade, was in the game for over 10 years but been in the building trade all my life, but after the loss of my...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
The mains input cable is Brown = Live, Blue = Neutral, and White = Earth. Live and Neutral go to the input side of the double-pole On/Off switch. The output side of the switch has two each of Live and Neutral outputs, the pairs of pins are connected together with push-on flat metal plates. Nearest the camera, the first Live output pin has a spade tag with a thin black wire connected. There is also a spade tag with a thin black wire near to the corresponding first Neutral output pin, but that spade tag does not appear to be pushed on yet? Or are there three output pins in a column at the Neutral side of the switch? Or maybe that female spade tag has a male piggyback pin ?
( Where do these two thin black wires go? Perhaps it is to a fan? If so, and the fan is marked 230v, it would be right that they go to L and N at the switch.)
My guess is that the thick Blue-dot wire goes to Live ( brown feed at the switch, nearest to the camera ), the thin Green-dot wire goes to Neutral ( blue feed, further in ), and the Yellow-dot wire from the transformer goes to the Neutral as well.
I think this is correct. To confirm, I have invited the other owner of an AutoJack Migmaster 130 - @Jmh474 - to assist us in a private message, you are also copied in the conversation.
Hi again. The 2 thin black wires go to the fan (you correct) but after further checks it looks as if the one fan lead (nearest the camera) on the positive side used to be a piggyback pin but had broken off (not 100% sure) when removing the old pc... 
If that was the case, I was wonder why they would have a piggyback when there is a terminal for the red with blue dot
If you can clarify it'll be great!!
Regards.
If that was the case, I was wonder why they would have a piggyback when there is a terminal for the red with blue dot
If you can clarify it'll be great!!
Regards.
On the Neutral side of the switch ( the furthest from the camera, the right hand column of pins when looking at the back of the switch ) three connections are required: fan, yellow dot to transformer, and thin green dot to PCB.
On the Live side, only two connection pins are needed: fan, thick blue dot to PCB.
The transformer gets it's Live feed through the PCB, via the power control circuitry.
To provide the requirement for 3 pins on the Neutral side, they fitted the fan wire with a spade connector that had a piggyback male pin. On the Live side the switch already has enough pins ( 2 ), but probably the manufacturing process for the fan just fitted piggyback spades to both wires. Since it is AC, it doesn't matter which way round the two black fan wires go, and it would simplify the assembly instructions if both wires had a piggyback pin.
I would suggest waiting a day or so for confirmation, in case member Jmh474 replies to our conversation.
On the Live side, only two connection pins are needed: fan, thick blue dot to PCB.
The transformer gets it's Live feed through the PCB, via the power control circuitry.
To provide the requirement for 3 pins on the Neutral side, they fitted the fan wire with a spade connector that had a piggyback male pin. On the Live side the switch already has enough pins ( 2 ), but probably the manufacturing process for the fan just fitted piggyback spades to both wires. Since it is AC, it doesn't matter which way round the two black fan wires go, and it would simplify the assembly instructions if both wires had a piggyback pin.
I would suggest waiting a day or so for confirmation, in case member Jmh474 replies to our conversation.
Thank you for the update, I am really pleased that the welder works again, and that the wiring is correct. That was very brave of you to try it !
I have been interested in how they get the "fully-variable" control to work on this model of welder. If you do not have to return the faulty board to the Vendor, and have no plans for it yourself, I would be happy to buy it, so that I can look at the circuit and the components.
I have been interested in how they get the "fully-variable" control to work on this model of welder. If you do not have to return the faulty board to the Vendor, and have no plans for it yourself, I would be happy to buy it, so that I can look at the circuit and the components.
Sorry I missed your post, iv not been on for a while but I'm back, don't know if that's a good thing or not guess that's yet to be seen, glad you got everything working, if you're interested in any of the mods iv made please just ask
