Miller welding table project

[irlforum]

Hi,
I was thinking of taking on this project http://www.millerwelds.com/interests/projects/welding-table/

I think the finished product looks really nice.

My question is regarding how to cut the metal as per step 1 on the above link.

It looks like he is using some sort of guillotine but on the "Tools needed" on the bottom left of the page he only says you need a "Metal cutting saw".

Is it a cold saw that I should get for here then? Would a cutting disc on a grinder not do the trick?

Any help appreciated.

Oh also I wonder if it's possible to pick up plasma cutters at tool and hire places generally?

 

[Debs.]

That`s a nice project and you will gain plenty of fabrication/welding experience making such a useful bench.

I`ve made a similar item and I simply cut the stock profile sections and even cut the top thick-plate using metal-cutting 'slitting' discs, mounted in a 9" angle-grinder; with surprisingly neat results (even on long straight cuts).

Plasma cutters are very fast and useful; but IMHO certainly not essential to have when starting out in the welding hobby.

I think the saw shown in the article is a powered hack-saw and will give neat, repeatably 'square' cuts in sections and profiles, but a steady hand and eye using a hand held angle-grinder can produce good cutting results too.

Grab your grinder, 'dive in' and get going on that bench and keep us posted with progress updates and pictures.

 

[irlforum]

That`s a nice project and you will gain plenty of fabrication/welding experience making such a useful bench.

I`ve made a similar item and I simply cut the stock profile sections and even cut the top thick-plate using metal-cutting 'slitting' discs, mounted in a 9" angle-grinder; with surprisingly neat results (even on long straight cuts).

Plasma cutters are very fast and useful; but IMHO certainly not essential to have when starting out in the welding hobby.

I think the saw shown in the article is a powered hack-saw and will give neat, repeatably 'square' cuts in sections and profiles, but a steady hand and eye using a hand held angle-grinder can produce good cutting results too.

Grab your grinder, 'dive in' and get going on that bench and keep us posted with progress updates and pictures.

Thanks for your reply. Good to hear you have had such good results with a grinder as a powered hacksaw looks to cost a nice bit.

First question: Is a "slitting" disc different to a cutting disc?

Any tips on how I could go about cutting the square section without currently having a bench vice and what did you leave the top section on while you were cutting it?

Actually one other question how did you square up your cuts after finishing with the grinder?

 

[Debs.]

Thanks for your reply. Good to hear you have had such good results with a grinder as a powered hacksaw looks to cost a nice bit.

First question: Is a "slitting" disc different to a cutting disc?

Any tips on how I could go about cutting the square section without currently having a bench vice and what did you leave the top section on while you were cutting it?

Actually one other question how did you square up your cuts after finishing with the grinder?

Slitting discs are simply, slightly-thinner and cut more easily/quickly than (many) cutting discs.

I used a couple of carpenter`s old wooden saw-horses (trestles) to support the top plate for cutting and whilst it was in place on the trestles, I clamped the square/angle sections to it for cutting (simply clamped at the edge of the plate using 'C' or 'G' clamps/cramps); overhanging so the scribed cut-line such that it was clear of the edge of the plate to make the cut with the grinder.

For squaring up the cuts to the scribed lines, I used a 4" angle grinder with a grinding disc (for any gross removals/tidying) followed by a finish dressing using hand files (coarse then fine).

Hope the above helps.
Debs.

 

[astro_al]

The saw in the pic is a horizontal band saw.

You could look at an abrasive chop saw for a cheap way to make cuts (at roughly 90). Or just go with a hacksaw to start with.

Al.

 

[irlforum]

Thanks - great help here. Should be a thank you button.

At the moment I can only think of one more thing to ask. When welding the top frame and the bottom frame how do you confirm that they are square?

I don't want to weld the two frames and then find that there out when trying to connect them.

 

[astro_al]

You'll have to learn the hard way about heat contraction as a welded part cools... this can pull your frame waaaay out of line if you're not careful.

As the article says, tack weld a frame together - you can 'adjust' with a hammer and check its square with a large square (try for example a framing square from screwfix or something you know is 90 degrees - the longer the better). Once its all tacked, its less likely to pull out of line. So you can fully weld it last of all.

Try not to put too much heat into any particular joint - alternating around the frame, or allowing it to cool for a bit will help stop warping.

Al.

 

[irlforum]

You'll have to learn the hard way about heat contraction as a welded part cools... this can pull your frame waaaay out of line if you're not careful.

As the article says, tack weld a frame together - you can 'adjust' with a hammer and check its square with a large square (try for example a framing square from screwfix or something you know is 90 degrees - the longer the better). Once its all tacked, its less likely to pull out of line. So you can fully weld it last of all.

Try not to put too much heat into any particular joint - alternating around the frame, or allowing it to cool for a bit will help stop warping.

Al.

I'm beginning to realize now why the project is marked for an "intermediate" welder. Cheers for telling me this - could save me money and the hobby.

Tomorrow I plan to start doing some practising welds. Primarily to practise the kind of welds I will need to do to complete this project successfully.

I am going to use some cutoffs to do this. Firstly what do you normally use to mark the measurement on the steel - is it some sort of chalk?

Is there a specific type of weld process with a name or anything that I should be using for this job? The Miller page doesn't give any detail on this.

 

[richy_B]

Firstly what do you normally use to mark the measurement on the steel - is it some sort of chalk?

There probably is a special marker, but I think you will be ok to use a scribe (or a nail )

Is there a specific type of weld process with a name or anything that I should be using for this job? The Miller page doesn't give any detail on this.

I am not sure what you mean by this, so this may not help.
The process is MIG welding, in the tools needed section the first link takes you to Miller MIG welders, plus you need Argon/CO2 shielding gas.
I think all the joints are "Butt welds", except for the last picture, which is a "Fillet weld" for the gusset (I think).
I am new to welding too, but now I have said all this a proper welder should come along and put me right
Rich

 

[astro_al]

Marker depends on circumstance - general = black permanent marker (buy in bulk - don't last long), plasma cutting = paint marker (bright / luminous), tip-ex pen, etc, accurate cut line for saw etc = scribe (can use engineers blue to help it stand out). If its going to get hot and doesn't need to be clean then French chalk is good, it stays there and doesn't boil off, but is easily smudged.

Weld process = whatever works / you have / are best at. Could use arc, tig, mig whatever. Don't worry about it. Just practice first (make similar joints to practice with).

Al.

 

[langy]

If your concerned about cutting the section just ask where you get your metal from to cut to your dimensions, will only cost a little extra

 

[pedrobedro]

Thanks for your reply. Good to hear you have had such good results with a grinder as a powered hacksaw looks to cost a nice bit.

First question: Is a "slitting" disc different to a cutting disc?

Any tips on how I could go about cutting the square section without currently having a bench vice and what did you leave the top section on while you were cutting it?

Actually one other question how did you square up your cuts after finishing with the grinder?

Scribe all four sides of your box section and cut them one at a time but I wouldn't use slitting disks on anything thicker than 16g it will cost you a fortune in disks to cut 3mm wall box if you use the really skinny ones.