Mounting a T2 Toolpost on a Harrison M300

[Rannsachair]

Just picked up a T2 tool post and deciding how best to mount it?

I took of the 4 way tool post currently fitted and have a 1" dia stud:

The toolpost is too small an internal diameter and too tall to suit:

So am I best:
1. just turning a new mounting stud or
2. mounting the tool post in the 4 jaw and boring out to suit and countersinking the top a few mm to reuse the existing clamping handle and access the existing threads?

I suspect the tool post will be quite hard, but should be doable with carbide tools.

Thanks

 

[daedalusminos]

The locating collar is the key part...

 

[Agroshield]

Your first picture looks suspiciously like a stud over another stud. What happens when you remove the thin nut at the top?

Keep dismantling bits from the compound slide until you are left with a bare casting with a hole in it. Then build back up to suit the QC toolpost.

 

[doubleboost]

That centre stud comes out .
Take the top nut off .
There is a Allen head grub screw in the bottom locking the stud in place.
The thread is standard 12 mill.
I am actually doing this job on my Patrion channel.


Doubleboost Patrion Page https://www.patreon.com/doubleboost?fan_landing=true

 

[Agroshield]

Have you seen the manual at http://www.lkctraining.co.uk/S2-CentreLathe/M300 manual.pdf ?

Pages 37 and 44 relate to your question.

On p.37, the inner toolpost stud is 305049. There is a plate, 305050 held onto the top of the compound casting with 2 roll pins. This is to square or register the toolpost shown to the casting.

On p.44, the thin nut is 311 10 007 and the 1" threaded stud, complete with base notches to clear 305050, is 311 10 004.

 

[Agroshield]

The locating collar is the key part...

Just an observation for comtemplation:

Look at your instructions from the horse's mouth above, and note how the lower collar is supposed to provide the register for the toolpost.

Now go and watch every toolpost video on YT, and see how people always use a top hat bush from above for this purpose.

 

[daedalusminos]

I guess that depends on your expectations for rigidity and returning to a known position after rotating

 

[Rannsachair]

So it looks like I just need to make a longer tool post stud 305049.

I noticed my Myford quick change tool post has a needle roller thrust bearing under the locking lever on top of the tool post: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Cata.../Tool-Posts/Model-000-QCTP-Mod-Kit-for-Myford should I be adding a thrust bearing or is it unnecessary?

 

[Seadog]

I've not found it necessary on the Boxford.

But if you can buy it, why not?

 

[Kram]

So it looks like I just need to make a longer tool post stud 305049.

I noticed my Myford quick change tool post has a needle roller thrust bearing under the locking lever on top of the tool post: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Cata.../Tool-Posts/Model-000-QCTP-Mod-Kit-for-Myford should I be adding a thrust bearing or is it unnecessary?

This is high up on mylist of to do's. The 250-111 post comes with a plain nut and would be better with a handle. For my compound slide I used a thrust bearing and it was much easier to tighten and loosen, so I wil do that too.
Problem with it, I want to make up a new spacer block first as the height is wrong.

 

[daedalusminos]

As @Agroshield said, remove thin nut and remove threaded collar, you should find the original locating plate below but potentially too small for the T2 - shouldn't be too much work to make a larger one though.

 

[Rannsachair]

The sleeve 311 10 004 appears patrially siezed, can lift it about 3mm. I have the grub screw under the stud out.

Leaving it soaking in release oil as I do not wish to damage anything.

 

[Agroshield]

Does it lift enough to clear the plate below it? If so, a couple of nuts locked on it might persuade it to rotate.

The manual shows a semi-collared nut whereas your picture just looks like a thin nut. Have any burrs been raised in that area that are preventing removal?

On the needle bearing idea for securing the toolpost, it depends a lot on how you work and what tooling you have and use.

Uncle doubleboost rotates his toolpost and squares it back up against the chuck two or three times nearly every part he makes.

My toolpost does not even have a locking lever, just a 15/16" A/F nylock nut. I find I need to change the angle of it maybe twice a year. If I need to contact the work at a different angle, I just change the tool (e.g. a square insert on a shank that presents it at a 45 degree angle does chamfering).

 

[Rannsachair]

Does it lift enough to clear the plate below it? If so, a couple of nuts locked on it might persuade it to rotate.

The manual shows a semi-collared nut whereas your picture just looks like a thin nut. Have any burrs been raised in that area that are preventing removal?

On the needle bearing idea for securing the toolpost, it depends a lot on how you work and what tooling you have and use.

Uncle doubleboost rotates his toolpost and squares it back up against the chuck two or three times nearly every part he makes.

My toolpost does not even have a locking lever, just a 15/16" A/F nylock nut. I find I need to change the angle of it maybe twice a year. If I need to contact the work at a different angle, I just change the tool (e.g. a square insert on a shank that presents it at a 45 degree angle does chamfering).

Yes, you can move the plate below up and down on the dowels. I have tried rotating it, no luck so far.

I cannot see any burrs, as you say my nut is not collared as per the manual.

I only have 3 tool holders for now, so suspect I will be moving my tool post as much as @doubleboost

 

[Munkul]

Why though? Most basic operations can be done with tools set parallel or 90 degrees to the work... Undoing a nut isn't a hardship but it's not something I'd rush to do... I set my compound at 30 degrees for threading, and tool post straight and I don't think I've moved them since...

 

[Rannsachair]

Resorted to a puller

The bore in the sleeve was too tight for the M14 thread, so the stud was meant to be unscrewed first, as well I need to make longer one as damaged the crest of the threads.

I have ordered a thrust washer for the top.