My 1st runs of Arc weld - comments/advice/uncontrollable laughter welcome

[Spuddevans]

I think I tend to do things the non-standard way, I got a GYS TIG200 HF last November and have been learning to Tig weld since then having never welded before. I have silver soldered (brazed) before using propane, but never attempted any welding before.

Since then I have managed to "stick" a few bits of rust together using TIG, and I really like that process. Having finished building a welding trolly/cart (see the "Show us your welding cart/trolley" thread) I stared to tidy some welding accessories into the drawers. I came across the "Stinger" that came with the welder.

So I dug a piece of 6mm steel out and gave it the once over with a flap disc (not sure if that was strictly needed, it's just the TIG advice to have everything as clean as poss') Then I stuck a 3.2mm 6013 rod in, and after looking at the label on the box (the box of 6013's) I set the current to 120A, left the polarity on DC - (not sure if this was right, but the label said DC- so I gave it a try) and here is the result.

My very first stick welds (and yes, I did stick a lot on each start). My 1st run is the left-most bead, and then they follow from left to right.

I couldn't believe how fast the weld formed, the 1st few I think I was moving way too slow. The last 2 runs I lowered the current to 115A.

Here's the backside

You can see where I "pushed" a little too hard and slightly welded it to the bench!!

Now I get how slow in comparison TIG is, but it is a lot cleaner.

Tim

 

[sardine]

French chalk some lines on the plate and follow them.

Order a load of strip and cut it into 1OO mm lengths, and use as practice pieces, join every piece to the next in various positions.

 

[PTvor]

That's not bad for a first stab at arc welding. At least you're starting with a nice thick piece of steel suitable for running beads, not some 2mm box section and wondering why you're blowing holes all the time.

It looks as if your travel speed is very inconsistent, you need to watch the weld pool and let it dictate the travel speed. The rod angle looks much too shallow, that's why you have those long loopy ripple in the bead, and you're not maintaining a consistent arc length. It all comes with practice. There are some good Youtube vids on arc welding which are worth watching.

Rod positive vs rod negative? There are quite a few discussion on that on here which you can find with the search. Some of it's down to personal preference. I tend to use rod negative on stuff less than 3mm thick. 6013s should run either way, other rods may not run well rod negative. You have to look at what the maker recommends.

With arc, you always need to clean to bright a patch to make a good contact with the earth clamp. It's good practice to clean to bright the surfaces you are going to weld. If people ask for help with problems arc welding on here and show a picture of some rust encrusted grot, they'll be told to try it with clean steel and then come back. That said it's not as fussy as soldering, or TIG or even MIG.

 

[Bill Edwards]

They're fine for first attempts. Yes it's not as critical but you should still clean the metal.
I wouldn't move onto joints for a bit, focus on a bead pad first. It's worth reading through the tutorials linked to at the top of the page, they're a great place to start.

 

[arthur]

I've been welding for years, I did some arc the other day that was much worse than that lol!


Sadly my comment is true, it was much worse lol it was so bad I went back the next day ground it off and did it again...lol

 

[Spuddevans]

Thanks guys, I appreciate any and all tips/advice.

I will try and use a steeper rod angle, and make that piece of scrap into a bead pad (maybe a bit big, it's about 6" square, but it'll do)

I knew that TIG was a slow process, but not having any reference I didn't realise just how much faster stick welding is in comparison.

Tim

 

[Richard.]

Nice start,
Keep a tight arc
Rod angle about 30 degrees assuming vertical is 0.
Dragging the electrode so that your not running into slag.

 

[Spuddevans]

Nice start,
Keep a tight arc
Rod angle about 30 degrees assuming vertical is 0.
Dragging the electrode so that your not running into slag.

Thanks Richard, I think I had a rod angle of around 45degrees, so next time I will straighten up a bit. I was dragging the electrode too.

Because it is new to me, feeling/seeing/sensing the arc length is almost non-existent, but I guess that will improve with practice, the same goes for travel and feed. (Both way faster than I've got used to with TIG)

Tim

 

[PTvor]

I will try and use a steeper rod angle, and make that piece of scrap into a bead pad (maybe a bit big, it's about 6" square, but it'll do)

That's not too big, it's a nice size. The plate will get very hot if you're putting down a pad and it may be an idea to give it a chance to cool down.

I knew that TIG was a slow process, but not having any reference I didn't realise just how much faster stick welding is in comparison.

All the major welding processes have survived because they've got particular advantages. TIG is a very sophisticated process you can weld metals with that you couldn't join any other way or at least any common way. With arc, the equipment can be simple and very tough, there's no gas to worry about. No tungstens, no tips, no wire feed mechanism. So you can have the welder in the shed and the sticks in the airing cupboard and drag it out when needed. You can weld in a wind of basically any strength you'd want to go out in. You can weld rusty steel together - now it's not best practice, it doesn't produce the best welds, I'm not recommending you do it as a matter of course, but you may be glad you can if you are stuck some time.

 

[Spuddevans]

Over the last week I have been running a few rods padding beads, then today I remembered the advice I read when starting to TIG, make sure you are as comfortable as you can be, so today I tried sitting down to burn some rods ( I made my welding bench at a height that would suit Tig-ing while sitting ) and what a difference it made! I had much better control and as I was closer to the work I could see the puddle better.

Anyway, here's a pic of my bead pad, now working my way on a 2nd level working 90degrees to the 1st level. ( 3.2mm rod stub points to the start of the sitting run's )

Tim

 

[Bill Edwards]

That second layer is looking pretty good, I'd say you're getting the hang of it.

 

[PTvor]

Definite progress.

Sitting down certainly helps and you can use two hands which makes things steadier, especially when you are starting.