Nail guns for flooring

[chunkolini]

When plasterer is finished its time to rip up the floor and sister the joists before laying chipboard flooring and then tongue and groove softwood floor boards, I'd like oak but a bit pricey and its a bedroom and upstairs landing so not much traffic.
So to fix the boards down? Ive seen videos reccomending thin screws into the lower part of the groove. Looks fussy and splitty to me.
Nails? first fix or second fix? Im a bit confused on this one but I think second fix as its only softwood.
Id like cordless as I hate getting tangled up in leads. Ive seen this one https://www.dewalt.co.uk/product/dcn660n-xj/18v-xr-brushless-16ga-second-fix-nailer-bare-unit is this the sort of thing?
Id need to go second hand but its a bit pricey for maybe one job or does it become one of those always in use tools?
Any thoughts anybody?

 

[More Amps]

Unless you're planning to go to the dark side, and take up wooden bodgery, I'd just go down to your local hire shop...

 

[addjunkie]

First fix is big stuff like 90mm for roof joists etc, second fix is skirtings and architrave etc. Ive used both the Dewalt one and Plaslode. They are all blooming expensive, but a god send fitting skirtings and building roofs etc. nailing through the grove is a common technique for tongue and grove panelling etc. Never done a floor so cant comment. Have you considered LVT over the chip board?

All the nail guns Ive used have been borrowed from a friend who is a joiner. Though I did fit skirtings and architrave for my daughter with a borrowed Katsu battery gun. To be honest it wasnt bad. I only did the job as her other half cant measure or cut mitres, and he was at work, while I was waiting in for a delivery for her.

 

[chunkolini]

I do dabble a fair bit on the dark side.
Its almost the whole floor of the house to do so a lot of nails. I wonder maybe buy 2nd hand and sell if it just sits there a year later.
so 2nd fix then.
Id thought of laminate but fancy real proper tree wood

 

[sako243]

Nails run the risk of working loose. Our neighbour who does a lot of this stuff uses screws and glue for floorboards to stop movement and squeaking.

 

[More Amps]

I'm certain I'll be teaching granny the art of egg-sucking, but make sure you test your chosen tool thoroughly - they do wear out and can be expensive to repair. Also be cautious of where your "other" hand is - nails can be deflected by knots and come out in unexpected places...

 

[Kram]

Theres a few cheaper options. Try to get the job done and break it within 30 days so you can send it back

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Werktough-Cordless-Charger-Lithium-Battery/dp/B09D2JL7W6

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Einhell-Power-X-Change-Cordless-Nail/dp/B08W8LDK9C

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Excel-Cordless-EXL592B-Battery-Charger/dp/B09L875V1Z

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NEU-MASTER-NTC0023-18-Rechargeable-Woodworking/dp/B07RDNMJNM

 

[Agroshield]

Chipboard is not normally a material one would use as a receiver for nails so you need to go through the t&g and through the chipboard into the joists.

That will tell you the length of nail you need and the gun that would drive it.

Similarly, chipboard is hard/dense so punching a nail through it in the traditional manner is not straightforward. Hence any gun and nail combination needs enough umph to achieve this without buckling the nail.

 

[chunkolini]

Cheers Kram, Ill probably go the SH route as once batteries are included Im close to the price of a used one.
research needed on going through chipboard.
or maybe use these with pilot holes? drilled in the tongue and groove?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tongue-tite-tx-double-countersunk-thread-cutting-floorboard-screws-3-5mm-x-32mm-200-pack/1518k

I'd go to my scrap wood pile and play extensively.
Wary of using glue in this old house incase I need to lift them in the future

 

[Kram]

Is chipboard much cheaper than plywood? I dislike the stuff, if it gets damp it falls apart.

 

[MetalMonkey]

Personally I'd screw it.


As for nail guns, I'd be wary of buying a second hand cordless one, its one of those tools that once they get a problem they are very expensive to fix.
And the only reason people sell them is when they have a problem or they have been nicked.

The dewalts especially have a lot of issues with the springs and the flywheel, very finicky guns in general and the newer ones are apparently worse - the only reason to buy one would be if you were on the dewalt platform and absolutely had no other choice.
Other options would be a paslode - but they can be expensive to run with the gas and maintenance, or pick up a second hand air nailer. Far less to go wrong.

You would need a trim nailer, 1st fix is for framing.
Don't overlook the cost of the nails either, they aren't that cheap and you will need to ensure your gun can fire them.

However, by the time you have sorted all that you could have probably just screwed it down and be done with it - and still have the option to take it up again easily in the future if required.

 

[MetalMonkey]

Is chipboard much cheaper than plywood? I dislike the stuff, if it gets damp it falls apart.

Chipboard flooring, ie caberfloor is a much more uniform and stable material than the plywood you can buy thesedays IME.
Its much denser than standard chipboard and moisture resistant - you have to basically submerge the stuff to get it to fall apart.

Just don't cut it with your best sawblade...

 

[Agroshield]

or maybe use these with pilot holes?

Those are stainless and perhaps unnecessary and maybe too short for the application (you are going diagonally through the tongue so draw it out and check).

These (85991) would be the usual choice, and a bulk pack would be more economic for a whole house.

Again, the issue with driving these through the t&g into hard chipboard is they will try to lift the t&g board before the screw bites into the chipboard, so you need to stand on it to press it down.

 

[Gareth J]

Cheers Kram, Ill probably go the SH route as once batteries are included Im close to the price of a used one.
research needed on going through chipboard.
or maybe use these with pilot holes? drilled in the tongue and groove?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tongue-tite-tx-double-countersunk-thread-cutting-floorboard-screws-3-5mm-x-32mm-200-pack/1518k

I'd go to my scrap wood pile and play extensively.
Wary of using glue in this old house incase I need to lift them in the future

I've used them extensively on engineered flooring without any splitting. But that's a bit more resilient than solid. Through the tounge at an angle though, not the groove.

Why not board directly onto joists with a bit thicker wood and save a whole process?

If lifting is an important consideration, carpet or vinyl will be a lot more forgiving.

 

[dobbslc]

I used these for my solid oak flooring,

Screwed through ply and into the existing floorboards.
I pre drill the holes as it can split, you'll need two drills to save swapping drill bits over and over so you can still get your new tool hit...
Are your knees and back good?

 

[chunkolini]

Knees and back are knackered.
So screws it is. I already have two 18v drills at home (see lost tools thread).
Tongue fix screws and predrill the holes.
It will be a little while
Plasterer needs to be finished and floor levelled
But I like to have a plan

 

[dobbslc]

Make sure you're kneeling on the board you're fixing as they do 'jack up' without weight

 

[Gareth J]

I reckon it's worth trying some offcuts without piloting. The screws I've used are were quite small and cut through well. Might save a job.

 

[cocker]

Portanailer , no battery or gas required .

 

[MattF]

So screws it is.

Wise choice. Makes things so much easier if any boards need lifting later on.