New welding bench,

[Rick]

Hello,

I'm making a new welding bench, I plan to do it 2 meters by 1 meter in 15mm steel, would you say this is thick enough? I planned to put some channel around the edge and maybe brace the centre. I manufacture mainly small light parts, but it'll probably see and engine on there at some point.

Whats the best thing to make the legs out of? I was thinking 4x4 6mm box, and having 6 legs? Then just some 2x2 angle to brace. Any inputs welcome.

Regards
Ricky

 

[cumbriasteve]

Sounds like a solid bench to me which I would build where you want it for the rest of its life or know a mate with a crane to move lol.

I think 75mm box with 50mm box braces would do you great for legs, may even be the same price or cheaper than angle

 

[s410man]

think that may be a bit excessive

mine is 10 mm with 50 mm legs and ive had plenty of engines and ride on lawnmowers go carts etc on it

design it well using triangles and you only need half the size of materials

look here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=11877

ive got another one with a 25mm ply top with 30mm bracings every 18 inches or so underneath it and ive even had a few engines on that and no sign of it cracking yet

if you are not planning on clamping anything heavy duty to it possible even 8 mm would do as warping is the biggest thing

thanks

 

[Barney1973]

Made a bench using a 15mm thick plate a few years ago,I used 100x100x4 rhs for the legs and had 100x50 box around the ends about 100mm in and a cross support in the centre,it was used in a fab shop for mainly heavy frames and did weigh a bit so could only be moved by hoist or fork truck but always stayed flat and this to me is important as I get fed up with using benches that are bent like bananas

 

[Rick]

Steel isn't that expensive at the moment, so the top for the bench is £170 delivered, it weighs 240kg's though! I thought maybe I could reduce the thickness, but i'd probably end up drilling and tapping various bits to it. Hammer things flat etc etc. I'd rather spend an extra £50 and know it can take whatever I throw at/on it.

I have got various jig's etc which are 10mm and they would probably be attached to it, I might have to drill and tap it in various places.

Maybe the leg size is a little OTT.

I also need to make a press frame so need to order the steel for that, I was thinking H section would be best.

 

[david500]

Having used various benches, I can say if you want it to last well, make it twice as strong than what you intend to build on it, So when you hammer or bend bits of metal over the side or tack bits to it, the bench stays put. Also if you are wanting to bolt stuff like a bench drill or a decent vice on it you need a srong top under them to stop the bolts ripping through. 15mm isnt that exessive really.
And you want a bit of weight for the same reasons.

 

[Rick]

Having used various benches, I can say if you want it to last well, make it twice as strong than what you intend to build on it, So when you hammer or bend bits of metal over the side or tack bits to it, the bench stays put. Also if you are wanting to bolt stuff like a bench drill or a decent vice on it you need a srong top under them to stop the bolts ripping through. 15mm isnt that exessive really.
And you want a bit of weight for the same reasons.

This is my usual thinking, If somebody can break something, I can.

 

[JayRS4]

Mines the same size with a 15mm top, legs are 76mm chs, horizontals are all 50x50shs, mistake i made was not having enough support in the middle, its sagged a good 1/4 inch, and yes, the plate was flat to start with.

 

[Rick]

Mines the same size with a 15mm top, legs are 76mm chs, horizontals are all 50x50shs, mistake i made was not having enough support in the middle, its sagged a good 1/4 inch, and yes, the plate was flat to start with.

I'm guessing its got 4 legs? Have you got L section all around the edge?

Has anybody got castors on theres? I've seen some but there only rated to 115kg each, I've a feeling it might be more. So will probably go with the 6 leg idea.

 

[astro_al]

Well, that supports what I always think. Its better to have a superior support structure and go for a slightly thinner top plate (if your budget is limited) than the other way round.

Thick top plates are over-rated I have done some very heavy work on a 6mm top.

My new build is a 1/2" top plate (12.5mm) - that is plenty. They key to success is ensuring it has something solid to sit on, with as small gaps between support rails as you can reasonably manage.

Regarding your design - why is all the mass in the legs and then you use crappy 2" x 2" angle to support the top / prevent bending? The legs are in compression - they're not going anywhere. If your budget is fixed, I would reduce the steel in the legs and put the money into something beefier to support the top plate.

As the horizontal members under the top plate as there to resist bending, you want the vertical element of these to be as deep as possible. This is the most important factor - more important than increasing the wall thickness. The horizontal width of these elements is of no consequence. You could even use flat section.

Al.

 

[Rick]

Well, that supports what I always think. Its better to have a superior support structure and go for a slightly thinner top plate (if your budget is limited) than the other way round.

Thick top plates are over-rated I have done some very heavy work on a 6mm top.

My new build is a 1/2" top plate (12.5mm) - that is plenty. They key to success is ensuring it has something solid to sit on, with as small gaps between support rails as you can reasonably manage.

Regarding your design - why is all the mass in the legs and then you use crappy 2" x 2" angle to support the top / prevent bending? The legs are in compression - they're not going anywhere. If your budget is fixed, I would reduce the steel in the legs and put the money into something beefier to support the top plate.

As the horizontal members under the top plate as there to resist bending, you want the vertical element of these to be as deep as possible. This is the most important factor - more important than increasing the wall thickness. The horizontal width of these elements is of no consequence. You could even use flat section.

Al.

All good points,

I planned to use 2" x 1" channel (mounted on edge) around the outter edge of the top, and then X brace. Heres a quick picture.

The 2x2 angle was just to brace the bottoms of the legs really.

 

[astro_al]

IMHO its over complicating it. Just cut yourself a set of straight members to go under the top plate. You're not achieving much with those crosses. Its not going to twist if the top plate is welded on anyway.

Like I said, less in the legs, more in the horizontal plate supports.

Al.

 

[astro_al]

On Parkers website, 50 x 50 x 3 is about £20 per length, but 75 x 50 x 6 is only a tenner more per length. If you used that as your table supports, with the 75mm flange oriented vertically it would be SO much more beefy / non-flexing. THAT is where to put your money.

The legs are overkill - have you tried compressing a 4" x 4" 6mm wall box section lengthways? Its a LOT harder than bending a 2" x 2" equal angle sideways.

Al.

 

[Rick]

On Parkers website, 50 x 50 x 3 is about £20 per length, but 75 x 50 x 6 is only a tenner more per length. If you used that as your table supports, with the 75mm flange oriented vertically it would be SO much more beefy / non-flexing. THAT is where to put your money.

The legs are overkill - have you tried compressing a 4" x 4" 6mm wall box section lengthways? Its a LOT harder than bending a 2" x 2" equal angle sideways.

Al.

I always sit to weld, so didn't want the table to be too thick. I've got a fairly high stool I wasn't sure if i'd get my knees under it if it was nearly 100mm deep. I probably will though and as you say it'd be a lot stronger that way.

The legs are overkill, but an extra £50 or something and they will "look" a lot better. Also I was planning to put it on casters, and a table weighing half a tonne stops abruptly when it hits a nut on the floor didn't want anything to bend.

I'll use the 75mm x 50mm x 6mm along the top all the way around, then have 1 between the middle 2 legs and no diagnals. I reckon that will be plenty strong enough. Then 6 legs with no braces around the bottom.

 

[astro_al]

Lucky you! Nice to always be seated to weld!

No I totally agree - keep the legs big if you can afford it. I was just saying if there is a limited budget better to put the money into the horizontal supports as described.

I would bung a rectangular frame between the legs down low - you'll always want the space to store stuff (leave enough room to put stuff on the floor under it. If you're worried about your knee room, set it back a bit from the front.

I would put at least 1 horizontal support in each 'side', so one in the centre and one dividing each half , as well as one at each end, so 5 in total.

If you're worried about getting your legs under the front, you could have a shallower frame element along the front edge, and even taper the 5 horizontals towards the front. This would have no significant effect on their bending stiffness in the centre - which is what you want from them.

IMHO castors are a no-no on solid benches like this - you want it solid, but to each his own.

Hope I don't sound too negative, trying to be helpful!

Al.

 

[Rick]

If I put a frameunder it i'll just end up filling it with junk, I was thinking of having the plasma/welder etc on a shelf under it but not sure yet.

Not negative at all, thats the whole point in asking. I was thinking similar with the casters, but when its made and the tops on it'll never move again! Which could be both good and bad i guess. My problem is now the company I called for the steel can't offload it due to the wieght, (no fork lift). So might have to reduce the thickness of the top or call another company.

Lucky you! Nice to always be seated to weld!

No I totally agree - keep the legs big if you can afford it. I was just saying if there is a limited budget better to put the money into the horizontal supports as described.

I would bung a rectangular frame between the legs down low - you'll always want the space to store stuff (leave enough room to put stuff on the floor under it. If you're worried about your knee room, set it back a bit from the front.

I would put at least 1 horizontal support in each 'side', so one in the centre and one dividing each half , as well as one at each end, so 5 in total.

If you're worried about getting your legs under the front, you could have a shallower frame element along the front edge, and even taper the 5 horizontals towards the front. This would have no significant effect on their bending stiffness in the centre - which is what you want from them.

IMHO castors are a no-no on solid benches like this - you want it solid, but to each his own.

Hope I don't sound too negative, trying to be helpful!

Al.

 

[hotrodder]

Could have castors that can be raised/lowered or fix the castors and have adjustable feet i.e. as well as for levelling the feet could be raised up just enough to leave the table sat on it's castors

 

[david500]

If you got another plate like the top but say in 10mm. Cut holes in it for the legs to go through and weld the plate at whatever height you need it, You would not need any horizontal supports at the bottom then,And you have a very strong shelf.

 

[Rick]

I might go without the casters, we've got loads of trolley jacks so i'll add horizontal bars on it then I could jack it up and drag it. The problem with the casters is if the floor is slightly uneven it's bound to break 1.

 

[astro_al]

adjustable feet are more use than castors, generally.

Al.