outside welding table rust protection

[Babaracus]

Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum and welding in general. I've been looking at these pages for a while now and already learned a ton.

But I've still got a lot of questions, one goes like this.

I made a welding table and have to protect the top surface from rust. I've got a shack to put all my equipment but its to small to be working in. So the table has to stand outside. And it rains around here at least once a weak.

Problem is the surface has to be conductive cause its a welding table!!
I was thinking zink but I don't know if zink, metal and electricity goes together.

Any ideas.



If anybody wants me to put up a picture I will.

 

[Hitch]

Theres lots of things you could use, one of themembers here use finishing wax on a project that i beleive stays outside... not sure how well thing earth through it.

A cover would keep the worst off id imagine?

 

[malcolm]

A zinc galvanised top should work OK. It's bad to actually weld galvanised steel together because the fumes given off can lead to flu like symptoms, but using a zinc galvanised a welding table ought to be less of a problem, and you'll be well ventilated outside.

Zinc paints would be no good - they scrape off too easily and aren't conductive enough.

If you can construct a roof over the table then regular treatment with something like "Gibbs Brand" or a wipe with a light oil can protect steel, but few of these treatments can resist rain.

 

[snowcat]

I use,for all my machined pieces, that may end up outside, and things like milling tables chucks etc, a spray of anti corrosion spray works well, it can give up to 12 months protection, a quick spray after you've finished welding each time would keep it nice and shinney....

 

[Babaracus]

I use,for all my machined pieces, that may end up outside, and things like milling tables chucks etc, a spray of anti corrosion spray works well, it can give up to 12 months protection, a quick spray after you've finished welding each time would keep it nice and shinney....

Thanks for the fast replies.
All good stuff, but snowcast's method sounds like the easiest fix.
If he can recommend me a brand (wd40 any good?) that would be great. I thought stuff like wd40 would be wiped away after 1 day of rain and that I should use something stickier.
I'll probably make some kind of cover later on just to be sure. The cover plus the anti corrosion spray would be killer.

For the rest of the table I was thinking to paint it with hammerite hammered finish. My neighbor still has some tins left from his fence. It says you can paint directly over rust but I doubt it. Should I try or remove the mill scale first.

 

[snowcat]

your want proper anti corrosion sprays, not a light oil , the anti corrosion sprays form a tensioned surface with an air free oil underneath the film, there sold as and are only used for the particular app, I use a wurth branded type just because I have the rep come round.......

I'm sure someone like J & L industrial (on the net) would sell there own brand.....

some on this page

 

[Hitch]

Simon drains would be the man to let us know... i recall somewhere he was planning on using some treatment like Snowy suggests, he'll be along later i expect.....

 

[Paul.]

Ensis fluid R would do it, or similar, 20 litre drum costs around £30

 

[Hitch]

Thats the stuff, i think Si mentioned.

 

[Welderpaul]

Just make a plywood top for it with a plastic cover fitted to it?
Most coatings become a bit nasty when you start welding on them...

 

[Babaracus]

your want proper anti corrosion sprays, not a light oil , the anti corrosion sprays form a tensioned surface with an air free oil underneath the film, there sold as and are only used for the particular app, I use a wurth branded type just because I have the rep come round.......

I'm sure someone like J & L industrial (on the net) would sell there own brand.....

some on this page

Great there's a wurth store 1/2 mile away, you don't happen to have the name of the product, cause the guy in the store can't tell the difference between a nail and a screw.

I didn't find an "Ensis fluid R" supplier nearby. Maybe its available on order, nobody seems to have it in stock. But I'll try the wurth stuff on Monday.

Covering the plywood top with plastic like "welderpaul" said looks like much of a hassle. I'll just cover it with a boat varnish. Although a top seems the smartest thing to do, it doesn't stop the moist etc. of being outside. So I'll still need some good anti-rust still conducting product.

Anyway already thanks a bunch for all the responses. Didn't thought such a noob question was going to be taken so seriously. Oh yeah and to the guy that made the website, if your ever in Antwerp "drinks are on me".

 

[snowcat]

the wurth stuff is on page 6 here


I find this one of the better sprays, a can will go along way.......

 

[Benji]

[ Oh yeah and to the guy that made the website, if your ever in Antwerp "drinks are on me".[/QUOTE]

Careful what you say!! Could end up with dozens of thirsty people in Antwerp pretending to be Malcolm

 

[Babaracus]

[ Oh yeah and to the guy that made the website, if your ever in Antwerp "drinks are on me".

Careful what you say!! Could end up with dozens of thirsty people in Antwerp pretending to be Malcolm

Party...

 

[Babaracus]

the wurth stuff is on page 6 here


I find this one of the better sprays, a can will go along way.......

Sounds like wd40 with lower viscosity. I'll get a can on Monday. Thanks for looking it up.

 

[snowcat]

Sounds like wd40 with lower viscosity. I'll get a can on Monday. Thanks for looking it up.

I dunno, it partially drys so it doesn't all evaporate leaving a film on the top layer, I think in use your find it very different to penetrating oils....