Paint consumables and materials.

[Samuealle]

Hey fellas I’m just compiling a list of bits and bobs that I wish to buy/attain, so far this is my list, just after a bit of advice really. Spraying celly in solid colour.

Compressor (3hp 100L 9FAD) Attained!

Gun1 (Colour) Devilbiss GTI 1.4 and 110 iirc air cap) Attained!


Gun 2 (Primer) Sealey gold gravity fed sg701g? 1.4 tip (Should have got the 1.7 dang it!) Attained!

Polisher 1 (Silverline , bought this and have taken a risk on this, seems okay) (Silverline lambs wool mit and foam pads) Attained!


Polisher 2 (Makita, on long term loan from a friend, found out just after he i bought the one on ebay) + (Silverline lambs wool mit and foam pads) Attained!


mask (Thinking a decent facemask should suffice) (The genson one off ebay?)

cellulose paint (Solid colour) 1:1 with decent thinners
Good quality thinners

High build primer
okay thinners (still resonably priced but not cheap tat)

Cheap tat thinners for cleaning

rubbing compound (farecla g3, seems to be some mixed views on this, but honestly i think it will be more then good enough for my abilities as a beginner)

masking tape (thin and thick) (Masking off edges when sanding out ect, i guess a decent brand like 3m)

Masking paper roll

sheet plastic (So everything around the area doesnt splattered with paint overspray)

1500 grit wet and dry (final cut and polish, no doubt ill have orange peel and other defects! 3M is a decent brand i presume, but any other suggestions?)
600 grit wet and dry (Sanding high build)
120 grit wet and try (cutting into previous paint to solid primer/paint)

panel wipe
tack rags
cloths (rags)
microfiber cloths

mixing cups
mixing sticks
strainers

Rubber sanding block
Ive got some 1 inch thick mdf, Going to cut some shapes out of this to get into awkward spots and staple paper to this.
Im going to need to attain some flexible sanding blocks any suggestions?

 

[eil]

A personal choice, 400 grit wet and dry for existing paintwork instead of 120, and some 800 grit for primer before colour. You might also need some stopper and some filler.

 

[steveo3002]

hmm yeah the sanding stage sounds a bit wrong grits

agree with 400 wet n dry before primer and finish off with 800 before paint

 

[Championship White]

Few more varied grits would be helpful I do 320 or 400 before primer and 800 before paint and then depending on the finish use 800-1200 grit to colour sand, 1500 might be too fine depending on finish to use straight before buffing. This is just what I've found so far with celly, I haven't been spraying long.

 

[busastars]

I've not long started playing. Used el'cheapo wet & dry from a cheap shop and it broke apart, bought a load from Sandingbelts on ebay ( think its Kingspour ) and so far am impressed, not had it come apart yet.

I bought 1200, 1500 & 2000 BUT I am going to stock up on 800. Found Celly stays soft for a long time so I would guess any less than 800 would be way to much. ( Well TBH I did balls up using 400g so I wont use less than 800 now )

You got more than I started with, like to know how the Silverline Polished is as a local place to me has them delivered for about £36, I'm tempted

Micro Fiber cloths go to Asda for, got a few packs for buttons.

You missed out a water trap, I bought a Silverline one on ebay for about £12. Worked a treat.

Mask I used the cheep £5 one on ebay with the yellow filters. First time spraying I was not being careful and did breath in a fair bit of Celly, just made me feel icky. With the cheep mask it never fitted my face well so could still smell paint now and again BUT was fine with it. Most people I have spoken to use the 3M disposable occasional masks for about £15.

I never bought gun was thinners as I had to much thinners for paint so in theory it would have cost me more to splash out on more cheep thinners than to use the expensive stuff just for cleaning out the gun.


TOP TIP, being new to spraying do not try Old Timers techniques like re'wetting with a rag to move paint around to fix little defects. I tried it and messed up.
Then I used 400g to re'prep and had sanding marks showing through, not a problem just flatten back till all looks good, BUT every time I put on clear the Celly would sink and re show the marks again. That is why I would not use less than 800g again and just spend a little more time on prep.

BUT I'm new to all this aswell.

 

[jaykay]

who told you to use rag?????thats a new one on me.
also why are you clear over celly. it dont need it or is meant to have it

 

[tux]

Nothing to really add to that Samuealle I think the guys above have it covered!

You got more than I started with, like to know how the Silverline Polished is as a local place to me has them delivered for about £36, I'm tempted

I have one of the Silverline jobs and it works really well. I'm only an occaisonal DIY user so not sure if it would stand up to daily abuse on a professional basis, but it has lasted me for over 3 years so far and shows no signs of dying yet. I particularly like the fact that it has a soft start. There are two models apparently, the blue ones and the orange ones which are supposed to be "proffesional" quality and a bit longer lived.
To be fair though, I reckon the quality of the pads is more important than the machine that drives them. The pads are in contact with your new paint, whereas the machine as long as it has a low enough speed isn't so critical in my view.

 

[busastars]

I read about it some where and asked an old timer about it, apparently with a damp rag in thinners you can re'wet small imperfections and move the paint around ( I dont know mind I am new to this ) ( BUT I tried and messed it all up ). I put clear over for lots of reasons but I wont hijack this thread, give me a week and I will post up on my project thread. Was my first time so lots of mistakes BUT have learnt lots. Just posting up my mistakes.

 

[Samuealle]

Ah i forgot to mention, bought an inline trap and a regulator although im a shade duboious of the quality. I guess ill just adjust it untill the gun sprays correctly.

In terms of filler i can only presume they are not all created equal. Ive had a quick search around and UPOL fantastic seems to be a weapon of choice. Would some of you agree with that?

Dolphin glaze seems to be a decent stopper aswell.

I have a question about paper really, ill be going dry into everything bar the cut and polish process. Would it be better to use ally oxide in this case as surely wet and dry is going to clog up fairly easily if im using it dry.

Im sanding by hand untill i can find a decent second hand air DA on the bay.

 

[jaykay]

there is a dry rub paper "fre-cut"it's the best one

 

[Drew 13.]

Does that compressor work them spray guns ok mate?

 

[graffian]

DA and 120-180 before hi-build. Block with same grits before hi-build.
I always wet sanded after primer, but I just tried dry sanding and am converted.
I scored some boxes of hookit paper and I used 400 on the hi-build. Wonderful stuff, no clogging, cut pretty fast, nice n dry and a lovely finish.

 

[Samuealle]

Thanks for the advice all! Ill let you know how i get on.

Oh and the compressor should be enough considering im using a 110 air cap on the gti and not the 115 hvlp cap.