Paint for my Land Rover inner wings

[SpaceDawg]

Hi,

I'm replacing one of my inner wings and I just wanted to check I'm painting it right.

I think I have to use Etch Primer as a 1st coat, then Zinc based primer seam seal it. Then on the bottom Waxoil the wings (or dinitrol) and finish the wing with a paint (probably black).

Does this sound ok, or should I use Red Oxide, seam seal and then paint.

You can tell I'm good at this can't you.

 

[marlinspike]

Not sure, but I have mostly seen the recommendation to etch prime, seam seal, then prime again, then top coat. Waxoyl doesn't seem very well liked these days. I get the impression other products have surpassed it.

 

[steveo3002]

a paint shop would either etch prime -high build prime -sand -seam seal -top coat

or

epoxy prime- high build prime- sand- seal -top coat (epoxy is the better choice)

leave any dinitrol /wax to way after its painted

* red oxide isnt really what it used to be back in the day , it was good because of the lead content which has been taken out now

 

[vdubz]

As said above, Epoxy primer is your best bet. Don't bother with etch primer, red oxide, zinc etc.. as they are all pretty poor really and don't give much corrosion resistance.

 

[reggieroo]

I wish I had known about epoxy primers before I did my Range Rover Classic. I have done lots of jobs over this last year, inner wings, sills, chassis, windscreen surround etc. All done using jenolite for rust removal, red oxide, then a top coat of enamel paint. On the underside I then used the hammerite waxoyl undercoat. I had previously used hammerite paint on the car when I first bought around 7 years ago as a rust prevention to find it totally useless.

So far the inner wings are ok as they we're complete new panels but the A posts I can now see corrosion coming back through already & it's not even been a year. Also the sill repair is also showing rust coming back just on the very bottom & the car hasn't even been on the road yet.

I didn't do any research before doing all the jobs as I just assumed that the old fashioned way was the right tried & tested way. Been doing a lot of research this last couple of weeks & the epoxy paints seem to be getting the thumbs up all over the net on various forums & blogs.

I only stumbled on this info in my quest for a hard tough paint for some rock sliders I'm modifying. Still undecided myself on what to buy though. Either jotamastic 80/87 or epoxy mastic 121 I think. Did originally nearly buy some POR-15 but then found far too many bad reports on the stuff.

 

[marlinspike]

It does seem as though epoxy primers are the way to go as they absorb less moisture and adhere to bare metal better. I have been using Bilt Hamber Electrox, a zinc rich primer, on my car just to coat it with something while we finish the welding, but it's pretty pricey in aerosol form.

I had read a lot of good reviews of Por 15 on US car forums, but it seems less well liked over here. Many comments say that the preparation has to perfectly done or it doesn't take. I did wonder if temperature had something to do with it and maybe it performs better when applied in a warmer climate.

 

[ajlelectronics]

POR-15 is very good paint, I use a lot of it. It is vital to understand what it is and what it is designed for though. Preparation is vitally important. POR-15 over smooth, unmarked surfaces will just fall off in sheets once cured. The ideal substrate for it, is a wire brushed, rusty and pockmarked surface. Nothing short of an angle grinder will remove it then. It also likes weathered galvanising, so I have cleaned and coated a chassis with it.

For use over smooth metal, it needs to be keyed. They sell a phosphoric acid wash called Metal Ready and that gives a key and a coating ready to accept the paint.

POR-15 also needs to be coated over if the sunlight can get to it as it is not UV stable. Suspension, chassis and other underside parts will be fine as they are though.