PCL ATC12 Filter-RegJoints leaking ?

[Submariner1]

OK I am new to the compressor world.

Just fitted this filter and most of the Joints seemed to leak!

Undid it, which is a pain, angle bends preclude one from rotating the joints, as do the brackets etc. Etc.
And one needs the angle of the bends to line up etc.

So if the “joint” into the filter needs redoing its pretty much Undoing the all the joints!

Anyway redid them with 5 winds of PTFE Tape .. reasonable WRS approved brand and they still leak even at 0.5 Bar!
All the fittings are stainless steel and the threads looked well cut and clean.

with so many leaks and air bouncing off the brackets and my add on bar to attach it ... hard to ascertain which joints are leaking. Pretty disappointed with my workmanship!

WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?
HOW MANY WINDS OF TAPE SHOULD ONE USE?
SHOULD ONE HAVE TO TIGHTEN THEM UP REALLY HARD?

any tips much appreciated.

Perplexed as putting on the quick release Coupler to the compressor worked perfectly with 2 winds of Tape, as did the hose joints and all the other PCL couplers and adapters to the line and tyre gauge.

on the positive side, Very pleased with the new Nuair. A lot quieter than I envisaged. And seems to work properly. And holds its pressure as long as I decouple my add on filter LOL!

 

[daleyd]

I find the ptfe fluid better than take for applications like this, but even with tape a couple of wraps of tape should be enough.
Are they BSPT tapered fittings? Could you have overtightened them and cracked what they are screwed into? They usually just need a nip up - not too tight

 

[Slowcoach]

Can you use a leak detector, or washing up liquid solution, to see exactly where it’s leaking. You’re arrows seem to suggest it’s leaking at the pressure gauge which I’d find surprising.

 

[mike 109444]

There is a "gas" rated ptfe tape that is much thicker. Think Tool station sell it (yellow spool)

 

[Seadog]

Use the liquid. I had similar on a compressor. Loctite 577.

 

[Submariner1]

I find the ptfe fluid better than take for applications like this, but even with tape a couple of wraps of tape should be enough.
Are they BSPT tapered fittings? Could you have overtightened them and cracked what they are screwed into? They usually just need a nip up - not too tight

I find the ptfe fluid better than take for applications like this, but even with tape a couple of wraps of tape should be enough.
Are they BSPT tapered fittings? Could you have overtightened them and cracked what they are screwed into? They usually just need a nip up - not too tight

Yes they are BSPT and no I deliberately didn't do them up too tight.

 

[Submariner1]

Can you use a leak detector, or washing up liquid solution, to see exactly where it’s leaking. You’re arrows seem to suggest it’s leaking at the pressure gauge which I’d find surprising.

Thanks yes I had to abort because it was getting late, ref noise.
Will try and isolate where the leaks are, because of the brackets there is lots of reflective air. The first time it was even leaking at the brass plug, that allows one to reverse the direction of the Flow by swapping plug with dial.

 

[Submariner1]

There is a "gas" rated ptfe tape that is much thicker. Think Tool station sell it (yellow spool)

Thanks I will try that

 

[Submariner1]

Use the liquid. I had similar on a compressor. Loctite 577.

I thought of that, but was worried by stainless fittings to aluminium body. That really sets hard could strip ally threads undoing the fittings

 

[Seadog]

It shouldn't be a problem. I've a couple of small compressors that have stainless fittings in alloy with a liquid sealant used by the manufacturer.

 

[bricol]

Just use more turns of tape - next to no tape at the end of the thread, with thicker layers towards the other end - screw it in until tight and pointing in the right direction - if it leaks. do it up some more. You may just have poor quality fittings where the thread isnt quite to standard. You'd have to be going some to bust the housing - I've not done it yet and I've used more than a few.

Loctite thread sealant (the white stuff, can't remember the number) doesn't tend to go completely hard and will seal a male parallel thread in a female parallel thread if the fitting isn#'t able to rotate in use.

If I really had to use a separate filter/reg, I would have taken it off the end fitting on the tank, probably just using a nipple to connect the unit directly, no hose in the way.

 

[Dcal]

I thought of that, but was worried by stainless fittings to aluminium body. That really sets hard could strip ally threads undoing the fittings

If you are worried (I wouldn'd be) Screwfix do a really weak sealing liquid for plumbing.
I use it for joint that will need to come apart and it has worked well for me on air fittings.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j

 

[veesix]

Loctite 55 is a good alternative to PTFE tape when the fittings are a particularly loose fit.

 

[daleyd]

These are the 2 alternatives to tape I use, the jet lube I’ve found sets quite hard and can be difficult to undo once set - but is great for things that are difficult to seal as it’s a more thicker paste like consistency - the loctite is “thinner” and is a little more forgiving when undoing stuff.

 

[Submariner1]

Thanks for all the advice.

I found the leak!
All my joints were OK, no visible bubbles, but then no real pressure At max 1.5 to 2 Bar.
The problem is there is a complete leak all around where the lower bowl meets the body.
See red arrows in picture ....

Its as though they forgot the Gasket!

The instruction manual is really a parts list; no explanation whatsoever on how to get at ie. clean the filter.

It is as if they “forgot” to fit Gasket #29.
Resulting in a circular fan jet of air, where the bowl meets the body !

I assumed with the absence of a lower securing bolt or nut. That the lower body with the bowl and 6 windows would unscrew off?
Well I could not budge it.

Surely when it arrives it should be airtight?

Wonder of screwfix will replace it, sadly bought well before the compressor came

DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE OF THESE AND COULD EXPLAIN HOW IT UNDOES ... AND SHOULD IT COME AIRTIGHT?

 

[daleyd]

The bowls usually have a little securing clip, you push and hold up and then give the bowl a quarter turn twist to undo almost like a bayonet lightbulb. You sometimes need to push the bowl up at the same time to lift it off the lip while you twist.

And yeah, should be airtight when it comes, assuming it’s come assembled (never known them to be otherwise to be honest?)

 

[Submariner1]

The bowls usually have a little securing clip, you push and hold up and then give the bowl a quarter turn twist to undo almost like a bayonet lightbulb. You sometimes need to push the bowl up at the same time to lift it off the lip while you twist.

And yeah, should be airtight when it comes, assuming it’s come assembled (never known them to be otherwise to be honest?)

Thanks,
Good to know they should be airtight.
I can see any clips, just looks like one mated surface pressed against another.
Tried pushing it up and turning, tried pushing up and turning and tried turning really hard. Seems locked rock solid.
I really wonder if they forgot the O ring gasket and tightened it up really hard.

surely for such well made kit, they pressure test them? no?

Very strange as it is beautifully made, weighs a ton well maybe 2 Kgs!

 

[daleyd]

Does item 36 unscrew to allow the bowl to come off??

 

[daleyd]

Just a thought - is it already unlocked and just needs pulling down (might explain the leak?) Have you tried turning clockwise to see if it locks??

 

[Submariner1]

Does item 36 unscrew to allow the bowl to come off??

No, #36 is just a sprung loaded automatic drain.