Pressure testing radiators

[puffernutter]

Because I'm tight, rather than pay a fortune for a radiator that fits in my bay window, I've bought three separate radiators and I'm joining them top and bottom to give the equivalent effect. These pipes are of course are bent which gives me slight concerns there may be leaks. So, rather than plumb it all in and have a wet floor, once I have these all connected is there an easy way to pressure test (it will have to be air not water) and what sort of pressure is a central heating pump?

I've built 7.25" steam engines and boilers, but they are all hydraulically tested at twice working pressure (for some of mine 220psi) and it has to hold it without significant pressure loss for 5 minutes.

The pump should work on air, so should that work and what time is reasonable?

Peter

 

[gaz1]

simple foot pump

 

[Arc Tourist]

Make up a fitting using a tyre valve and a cheap tyre pressure gage. You only want to pump the line up with a minimal amount of pressure to be able to see movement in the gage to note if there is a leak.

Edit: Ahh, gaz1 beat me to it. Can also use a cheap bicycle hand pump from the pound shop,

 

[optima21]

Im guessing it depends on if its used in a pressurised system (combi boiler) or a vented system. I've got a vented system and shortened a radiator by by 2ft, by cutting it and welding the ends together. 20 years on its still there and not leaking, and no testing was done after I shortened it. be weary though that radiators rust from the inside out, so it may be fine now, but who knows what it'll be like in a few years time.

 

[gaz1]

already built

Basic Dry Test Kit 4 Bar | Toolstation

• 15mm push fit connector • Schrader valve and gauge

www.toolstation.com

 

[colnerov]

Hi, as said, test the same as your boilers. Fill it with water leaving a small air pocket which you pressurise, safer. The pressure gauge on my combi boiler goes up to 4 bar but normal running pressure is redlined at 2.5 bar.

Colin

 

[Agroshield]

Fill it with water leaving a small air pocket which you pressurise, safer.

Can you think of a plausible scenario where pumping 3 new steel radiators up with air to 4 bar and then letting it sit there for 30 minutes might result in something dangerous? If you want to be ultra conservative, pressurise them to 1 bar, wait 30 mins and then increase to 2 bar, wait another 30 mins, etc. Anything that is going to leak air at 4 bar is going to leak air at 1 bar.

A bike pump from the start is very slow (even more so if you leave one of the bleed valves open by mistake), so a foot pump is good initially, but when you want fine control of the pressure increment, the bike pump is very good.

 

[Arc Tourist]

Im guessing it depends on if its used in a pressurised system (combi boiler) or a vented system. I've got a vented system and shortened a radiator by by 2ft, by cutting it and welding the ends together. 20 years on its still there and not leaking, and no testing was done after I shortened it. be weary though that radiators rust from the inside out, so it may be fine now, but who knows what it'll be like in a few years time.

I'm confident longevity has to do with the quality of the local water supply. We have very good water, with no noticeable traces of minerals. The taps and radiators in our house are well over 40 years old and have no sign of corrosion or needing service.

 

[puffernutter]

Great, thanks. Nice and simples!

 

[puffernutter]

Can you think of a plausible scenario where pumping 3 new steel radiators up with air to 4 bar and then letting it sit there for 30 minutes might result in something dangerous? If you want to be ultra conservative, pressurise them to 1 bar, wait 30 mins and then increase to 2 bar, wait another 30 mins, etc. Anything that is going to leak air at 4 bar is going to leak air at 1 bar.

A bike pump from the start is very slow (even more so if you leave one of the bleed valves open by mistake), so a foot pump is good initially, but when you want fine control of the pressure increment, the bike pump is very good.

I certainly can and that is why we never test locomotive boilers with air! They are tested with steam, but only after being hydraulically tested first at twice working pressure.

I have no problem with the integrity of the radiators - I have every concern with my plumbing that links them

I was curious what the pressure of a central heating pump was. As I said I have all the kit for testing boilers, all I wanted to find out is whether I could use that (and pump air not water) or is there a better way? When I hydraulically test, it is only a small amount of water required for a massive increase in pressure, so it look like with using air, I'll need a foot pump (or similar) to move a greater volume (or be there all day!)

Thanks all.

Peter

 

[hotponyshoes]

I had a job lot of plumbing tools & fittings recently.
In that is a small electric air compressor that has adaptors on the outlet hose for 15mm pushfit.
I'm presuming that was what they used for pressure testing.
You are welcome to borrow it if you like, it's 110v but you can borrow a transformer as well if required

 

[hotponyshoes]

I would guess the heating (or whatever) system would be filled with water first then pressurised and checked for leaks rather than tested empty just with air?

 

[123hotchef]

I would guess the heating (or whatever) system would be filled with water first then pressurised and checked for leaks rather than tested empty just with air?

new builds test with air no water, imagine the dammage water could do

 

[puffernutter]

I had a job lot of plumbing tools & fittings recently.
In that is a small electric air compressor that has adaptors on the outlet hose for 15mm pushfit.
I'm presuming that was what they used for pressure testing.
You are welcome to borrow it if you like, it's 110v but you can borrow a transformer as well if required

Oh yes please, that would be great ! I've got a 110v, but thanks for the offer!

I'll PM you and sort out a time to collect.

Thanks

Peter

 

[mike os]

Pressurised runs nominal 3 bar and tests to 8 or so depending on what pipe and fittings … personally I wouldn’t go over 6

 

[knighty]

central heating pumps produce naff all pressure... you only really need to think about the pressure in the system

 

[voipio]

Most closed loop central heating systems tend to run at around 1 to 1.5 Bar at the high point, typically an upstairs airing cupboard, so ~1.5 to 2 Bar downstairs. Most modern boilers refuse to ignite if pressure at the boiler drops below 1 Bar.

It's worth testing the pressure tester with a piece of blanked off pipe, to make sure the tester has no leaks.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I bought one of these, only £20, and will come in handy for other jobs.

Manual Hydraulic Test Pump Machine Hand Water Oil Pressure Tester Copper Quality | eBay

√ Precision test pump for exact and rapid pressure testing or leak testing of pipe systems and containers in sanitary and heating technology, in compressed air, steam and cooling systems, oil installations, sprinkler installations and in boiler and pressure vessel construction.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[123hotchef]

I bought one of these, only £20, and will come in handy for other jobs.

Manual Hydraulic Test Pump Machine Hand Water Oil Pressure Tester Copper Quality | eBay

√ Precision test pump for exact and rapid pressure testing or leak testing of pipe systems and containers in sanitary and heating technology, in compressed air, steam and cooling systems, oil installations, sprinkler installations and in boiler and pressure vessel construction.

www.ebay.co.uk

View attachment 364457

look at the welding on it! should be more like 5 quid

 

[James1979]

View attachment 364496

View attachment 364496

look at the welding on it! should be more like 5 quid

But it has a fashionable dial. That puts it up by £15