Raglan Capstan Lathe, and what are these tools?

[shed or dead]

Got my first lathe over the holiday period, and the forum's a bit quiet today so I thought I'd post some picks and ask a few questions.

Firstly, what should I disassemble and clean / grease / oil before putting to work?

Also, it came with a box of tooling, some of which I can name, others I can't so advice is appreciated. To avoid confusing me, the number above each picture relates to the picture below.

I'm aware of the Raglan group on Yahoo, and will be joining, but have not as yet.

Here's the lathe..

And the tools I can't identify...

Tool 1.

Tool 2.

Tool 3.

Tool 4.

Tool 5.

Which seems to fit here...

 

[shed or dead]

....I mean here...

I assume this is some sort of bump stop to set max travel for four tools mounted in the post when doing repetetive production?

I bought this lathe with the intention of (playing with a lathe) making swaging dies, and domed heads for the pneumatic planising hammer. As a future project I may attempt lower anvils for a diy English Wheel, if I firstly make a doming tool.

Testing capacity for swaging dies...

Seems OK.

All comments appreciated.

Many thanks.

 

[Fintray]

I'm pretty sure tool 5 is as you describe for setting up to 4 stops for repetitive work!

 

[Wendelspanswick]

I think tools 2-4 are end turning tools that fit into the Capstan and machine down the end of the bar to a set diameter.

 

[shed or dead]

Thanks Fintray, it does seem to get in the way of using the tool slide though so I'm wondering if it is for a specific type of task?

 

[shed or dead]

Thanks Wendel, more googling tells me that they are 'running down' tools, for finishing the ends on screws etc. (although I have no powered feed so won't be doing any screw cutting).

The shanks of 2 -4 do indeed fit the capstan tool holder hole bit thingy's.

 

[MattF]

Number one appears to be simply an adjustable stop.

 

[mike 109444]

1 is a stop for the carrage and would fit on the bar in your 1st pic where it says 3/8 bsw. would rotate to give different stopping positions for carrage and having rotated the tool post to next tool. 3 is a roller box It can have the tool infront of the rollers or behind ( tool produces the diameter to run rollers on OR rollers run on stock and the tool turns down diameter just behind rollers) 4 chamfer tool for turret. 5 cross slide stop used when rotating tool post then the stop would be rotated. I would first take all the tools out the turret cos they will rust in if not already! and you will catch your self on them while polishing the rest of the machine!!
Bit of oiled up scotch brite on the rusty bit then wipe with a clean rag. for starters.
PS did Santa get a hernia ......

 

[shed or dead]

Thanks Matt, any ideas as to where abouts it may mount?

Ta.

 

[mike 109444]

pps number 2 is to dirty to work out what it is. Would have thought you would have cleaned it before the photo shoot
Check the turret turns to index the tooling correctly. Did it come with what looks like a shrunk car starting handle ?

 

[shed or dead]

Thanks Mike, sound advice.

Santa had a tail lift and pallet truck so he's no excuse for not bringing a milling machine next year. I had a few sketchy moments cutting the pallet around it so I could bring the engine crane into position though!

 

[shed or dead]

number 2 is to dirty to work out what it is. Would have thought you would have cleaned it before the photo shoot

Dirty photo shoots are the best kind!

The turret turns, and clicks beautifully, it turns when the tailslide is wound to the extreme of open (if that makes sense). It can also be locked in place.

Thanks

 

[julianthegypsy]

Number 4 is a straightforward knee tool, it holds your basic turning tool. Very useful. You don't need power feed to turn threads, you use a die holder or even better a coventry die head in one of your capstan stations. You could also put a cutoff tool on the back of the tool post upside down, then you can use the front 4 way for whatever you want and come back to part. Very quick, very easy.

 

[MattF]

Bit of oiled up scotch brite on the rusty bit then wipe with a clean rag. for starters.

I've found paraffin to be slightly better than oil, in that application. Not much between the two, but paraffin tends to have quite a good degreasing effect to boot, so makes a good all rounder.

 

[MattF]

Number 4 is a straightforward knee tool,

Auto correct I'm guessing?

 

[julianthegypsy]

Auto correct I'm guessing?

No! It reall is called a knee tool! On account of being at 90 degrees, like a knee....sort of. :-)

 

[MattF]

Ah. After the auto correct jobbie with someone and knurl the other week, I just assumed instead of checking the photo.


Btw, nice machine. That should clean up lovely with a bit of elbow grease. Any old solidified grease and oil, paraffin will clear that off quite easily. A final wipe over with white spirit finishes it off nicely.

 

[graffian]

Tool 1 is the carriage stop, it goes on the bar mounted on the head stock that's pointing at the bar on the saddle; it's stops for tools in the tool posts[you want a rear toolpost, yes you do].
2,3 and 4 are variations on boxes, they go in the turret and you use them to make a cut, they have a support for the stock your tuning down. The ones I have used had roller bearings[like one of yours] and they sprung open when they hit a stop inside the box.
The stop is well a stop. Everything has stops.
Now and again I would love a capstan.

 

[Pete.]

I read some advice on practical machinist to use a slightly dull flat carbide scraper to clean surface rust from machine ways etc so I tried it on my Clarkson grinder and it works very well indeed. Leaves a nice clean working way without removing any measurable material (a scraper use in anger only removes tenths of a thou anyway).