Recommendations for a Rivnut Tool

[Dr.Al]

Whenever I want a thread in a bit of (usually 2 mm wall, but occasionally thinner) box section or similar, I usually machine an insert out of bar stock and weld it in place. This is a lot of faff (especially when I've got lots to do) so I've decided it's time to look for an easier alternative. Rivnuts look good, but there seem to be a bewildering array of types of setter and costs. I doubt Rivnuts will be quite as strong as a welded insert, but they'll be a lot quicker and easier and I suspect they'll be fine for most things I do.

I'd like to be able to go to at least M8 (I suspect M6 & M8 will be the main sizes I use); M10 would be nice, but not essential. I'd rather keep it under £50 delivered if possible. This Motamec one looks interesting, but is getting a bit spendy once delivery's included and I'd be worried about being able to use it where there's limited space between parallel bars. The right-angle ones and drill-attached ones look neat, but seem to be limited to about M6. This Proster one looks to be a clone of the Motamec and is a bit (but not a lot) cheaper and the language on the description looks a bit Chinglish so I suspect it's not top quality. The Dafra range looks lovely, but the prices are a bit for a hobbyist.

 

[flc]

The simple (read low rent ) way is to select a cap head bolt the thread size your using and drill a corresponding nut to clearance size , example m8 drill nut 8mm then use a 13mm spanner to hold the nut and an Allen key the bolt , wind the rivnut up to the nut ,insert it in the hole and do up the bolt ,whilst holding the nut, I get better/quicker results using an impact gun. Job done no fancy tools , if you loose the bits just make more

 

[James1979]

This is mine. Will do M3-12. In stainless too.

link here https://mettexairtools.co.uk/product/kj29-rivet-nut-tool/

Although the link only supplies up to m10 mandrel. Mine came with a 12. Works in stainless. I know cos I’ve done it.

 

[Dr.Al]

This is mine. Will do M3-12. In stainless too.View attachment 306838
View attachment 306840

link here https://mettexairtools.co.uk/product/kj29-rivet-nut-tool/

Although the link only supplies up to m10 mandrel. Mine came with a 12. Works in stainless. I know cos I’ve done it.

That looks very impressive, but it's quite a bit more than:

I'd rather keep it under £50 delivered if possible

 

[James1979]

Thats fair enough. Missed that bit - D'oh!! Although they are out there second hand so it might give you an idea of something on eBay or whatever. Unless you specifically wanted a new one?

 

[MoreWellie]

Slightly over but not by much is https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK3985-Long-Arm-Threaded-Riveter/dp/B00E0I986U/ref=asc_df_B00E0I986U could be available cheaper elsewhere

I have used the shorter armed version of this for a few years and its done a few hundred over that time. Feels like it might need some maintenance soon but still works ok

The long armed one does up to 12mm but I wanted to be able to work in tighter places as not all holes are nicely placed on the workbench

 

[MoreWellie]

And you can buy Aluminium or steel rivnuts in each size so make sure you buy the right ones

 

[Aff]

I have this, pretty similar to the Sealy.

Has a plastic body like the Sealy which I was a little worried about but I've gone through a bag of 400 M8's and seems fine so far.

13''Heavy duty Hand Nut Tool Riveter Rivnut Gun Mandrels M3-M12 Rivet Repair Set | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 13''Heavy duty Hand Nut Tool Riveter Rivnut Gun Mandrels M3-M12 Rivet Repair Set at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[bricol]

I've got a Sealey long arm one too - works well. Only DIY use though. Seems smooth in use.

For work use, we have a hydraulic thing of indeterminate make. Use decent inserts fitted correctly, and they are secure. I'd suggest the main issue is them spinning when attempting to undo them in a few years, rather than pulling out, so if you wish, a couple of quick tacks 180 deg apart will add security.

 

[Kram]

Theres a lot on amazon from about £30. The proster type seem the most durable of them, edit - which you already found

Instead, Id turn a set of shouldered threaded pins, and a couple of fine threaded bits to act is the puller, to be used in a cordless.

Im not big fan of riv nuts as they are not flush. I often use brass inserts intended for plastic, either epoxied or silver soldered in.

 

[Dr.Al]

Theres a lot on amazon from about £30. The proster type seem the most durable of them, edit - which you already found

Have you used one of the Proster ones?

 

[Kram]

Have you used one of the Proster ones?

I dont remember brand but same design, put 10 m8 rivnuts with it. Wasnt mine so cant say about durabilty.

 

[Misterg]

I'd like to be able to go to at least M8

I've got the Sealey AK3984 short arm which has done a bag of galvanised M8 inserts and half a bag of stainless ones - Works fine for me, but limited to M8

They're about £35 - £40 from discount tool places / Amazon.

 

[Dr.Al]

I've got the Sealey AK3984 short arm which has done a bag of galvanised M8 inserts and half a bag of stainless ones - Works fine for me, but limited to M8

They're about £35 - £40 from discount tool places / Amazon.

That looks good and I think I can live with M8, so I've ordered one for £35 off Amazon. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[mechman]

I've got the Sealey AK3984 short arm which has done a bag of galvanised M8 inserts and half a bag of stainless ones - Works fine for me, but limited to M8

They're about £35 - £40 from discount tool places / Amazon.

I've got the same one, seems to work fine.

 

[bricol]

Theres a lot on amazon from about £30. The proster type seem the most durable of them, edit - which you already found

Instead, Id turn a set of shouldered threaded pins, and a couple of fine threaded bits to act is the puller, to be used in a cordless.

Im not big fan of riv nuts as they are not flush. I often use brass inserts intended for plastic, either epoxied or silver soldered in.

You can get countersunk ones (in steel at least) - with little ridges on the underside of the flange to offer a little more resistance to rotation. Countersink the hole and they are flush.

 

[Robertthegreat]

I bought these of Alixpress they are better than some of the tools that bend on first use. And not expensive Allen key and 14mm spanner job done

 

[Moose McAlpine]

The simple (read low rent ) way is to select a cap head bolt the thread size your using and drill a corresponding nut to clearance size , example m8 drill nut 8mm then use a 13mm spanner to hold the nut and an Allen key the bolt , wind the rivnut up to the nut ,insert it in the hole and do up the bolt ,whilst holding the nut, I get better/quicker results using an impact gun. Job done no fancy tools , if you loose the bits just make more

I do similar, i use a nut, bolt and roller thrust bearing. Nut threaded onto bolt, bearing between nut and rivnut. The bearing makes it very smooth and easy.

 

[daf45]

These work really well. Bit like Robertthegreats...
I find better control opening them out to size with a spanner than pulling them with those plier type tools.
Either way handy things to have. Mine were from Kab engineer on the Bay; but if you can make one-off threaded bosses you could easily make something similar.