Removing Roll Pins - What's the proper tool?

[aesmith]

Hi,
I just had to remove two fairly large roll pins, securing a alloy hub onto a steel shaft. I found it quite a pain as the roll pin was almost perfectly flush with the surface so quite hard to use a drift that fully bore on the roll pin without damaging the surface around it. I got them both out using a six inch nail with the end cropped off and filed flat. For next time, is there a specific tool that would be used, and ideal tool would have a pip in the middle to keep it centred, but without pressing out to spread the pin.

Cheers, Tony S

 

[Maker]

You just need a whole set of pin punches in a range of diameters.

 

[8ob]

You can get a roll pin punch set for about £30.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Whatever you can find that fits in the hole.

 

[Robotstar5]

Proper roll pin punches have a "tit" on the end that engages in centre of the roll pin.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Proper roll pin punches have a "tit" on the end that engages in centre of the roll pin.

The tit is a small spindle that fits into the hole in the middle of the pin.
I have a few for do GM car brakes pins. One from doing small arms and one for fun.

 

[pedrobedro]

A nail with the end filed flat will do at a push as long as it doesn't fit down the hole in the roll pin.

 

[Turbo]

Proper roll pin punches with the locating tit are ok but the tit is very easy to break off, they are expensive & it's hard finding a good quality set.

I prefer using a good quality set of parallel pin punches, they tend to be cheaper & a better selection available out there. I tried several makes before buying a set of teng ones. They were expensive but they're top quality - I've been using the same set for 20 years!

 

[roofman]

Late to the table but i have always used pin punchers and slowly tap them out on the outside edge

 

[Trevorleach]

I have found regardless of make the long pin punches bend very easily especially in the smaller sizes line
So when I've bent one I cut off most of the punch piece off leaving just a half inch stub, this punch I now use as a starter punch which you can beat the crap out of not worry about bending it, then once the pin is moving swapout to the longer intact pin punch.

One of these cut down punches I use all the time to knock the centre shank out of monobolt rivets and chisel the head off nice and clean

 

[aesmith]

So when I've bent one I cut off most of the punch piece off leaving just a half inch stub, this punch I now use as a starter punch which you can beat the crap out of not worry about bending it,

That's a good tip. It's getting the pin started that's the problem.

 

[Trevorleach]

Proper roll pin punches have a "tit" on the end that engages in centre of the roll pin.

Yes I know, I have several, they still bend.

 

[Bornfree]

Yes I know, I have several, they still bend.

These don't they must be 25 years old. Not sure if facom still do them.

 

[anto44]

I'm probably going to get flamed for this but for getting the pins started moving I like to use a torx bit for the first hit to get them moving and then use a parallel punch from there.
One of these

 

[James1979]

I'm probably going to get flamed for this but for getting the pins started moving I like to use a torx bit for the first hit to get them moving and then use a parallel punch from there.
One of these
View attachment 357513

Sometimes a made or adapted tool is just the job. I’ve a set like that, Clarke or something, which I use purely for beating into rounded hex drives. Quicker and more efficient than drilling etc, if it works. If it doesn’t, nothing lost really.

I am probably the person most against abusing tools but in the real world when times money needs must.

 

[anto44]

I am probably the person most against abusing tools but in the real world when times money needs must

I try to take care of my tools as best I can but at the end of the day they're there to get the job done. If I'm doing a job and abusing a socket by hammering it onto a bolt will get the job done quicker I'll compare the value of the socket to the time saved by abusing it. If the time saved is worth more than a replacement socket would cost then it's out with the hammer and bye bye socket.

 

[Trevorleach]

These don't they must be 25 years old. Not sure if facom still do them.View attachment 357510

I can and do wreck everything, I do not mean to wreck things, but I see all tools as sacrificial and will happily do whatever needs doing to get the vehicle out the door, snap on/mac/cheapies they have all failed, might even be some facom in the box I have no idea.
Older Daf brake pedal pivots are a real bitch to get out.

 

[Trevorleach]

I'm probably going to get flamed for this but for getting the pins started moving I like to use a torx bit for the first hit to get them moving and then use a parallel punch from there.
One of these
View attachment 357513

That is a good idea.
Good to see the torx bit is on the point of failure, I keep spares of all sizes as they always seem to snap at the most annoying times, Milwaukee does not help either!

 

[Ton-up]

These don't they must be 25 years old. Not sure if facom still do them.View attachment 357510

Facom still do them but they are different. I had a set of them those two piece ones (but painted red) bough about 10 years ago. Wore them out and ordered a new set last year and they are now one piece, although the same part numbers!

 

[Turbo]

Steel nails (obos) make a good small dia pin punch if you grind the tip flat. If you sharpen them they also make a great precision centre punch!