Repairable ?? Clarke XE37/270

[Neo Badness]

due to some over exuberant attempts to get my compressor into the back of the van this snapped off
Am l right in thinking that if l carefully remove the threaded remains of the check valve l should be able to replace it? Also if doing that should thread lock be used when reassembled?

 

[Jbo2231]

Should be able to get it out, just dont get frustrated and use your head, not your muscles! Repeat soaking in your favourite rust penetration fluid. Carefull with the heat if you use some. Not sure about threadlock I'm afraid, sure someone will be along shortly to help.

 

[Ashley Burton]

I assume that end cap unscrews from the compressor?

 

[Jbo2231]

That also looks like the ball valve, I'm sure Clarke service department would be able to help.

 

[eddie49]

The original threaded end of the ball-valve was probably sealed into the tank end-cap with threadlock. A fair amount of heat, from a hot air gun or even a gas torch, will be needed to soften it. Then press something sharp and tapered, such as the pointed end of an SDS chisel, or the tang of a large file, into the remains of the inner pipe, and unscrew it. If that does not work, take a segment out of the pipe by partially cutting with a junior hacksaw blade or a triangular needle file, then knocking the segment out sideways with a small cold chisel. On reassembly, use threadlock or teflon tape.
If this part was a ballvalve, do you use it? If not, you could replace it with a solid male plug, e.g. 1/2" or 3/4" BSP or whatever fits.

 

[Jbo2231]

The original threaded end of the ball-valve was probably sealed into the tank end-cap with threadlock. A fair amount of heat, from a hot air gun or even a gas torch, will be needed to soften it. Then press something sharp and tapered, such as the pointed end of an SDS chisel, or the tang of a large file, into the remains of the inner pipe, and unscrew it. If that does not work, take a segment out of the pipe by partially cutting with a junior hacksaw blade or a triangular needle file, then knocking the segment out sideways with a small cold chisel. On reassembly, use threadlock or teflon tape.
If this part was a ballvalve, do you use it? If not, you could replace it with a solid male plug, e.g. 1/2" or 3/4" BSP or whatever fits.

Sounds like he at least uses it to lift it?

 

[Neo Badness]

Sounds like he at least uses it to lift it?

yes, inexpertly it would seem as the slowly blackening bruise on my ankle atests to ‍

 

[Neo Badness]

The original threaded end of the ball-valve was probably sealed into the tank end-cap with threadlock. A fair amount of heat, from a hot air gun or even a gas torch, will be needed to soften it. Then press something sharp and tapered, such as the pointed end of an SDS chisel, or the tang of a large file, into the remains of the inner pipe, and unscrew it. If that does not work, take a segment out of the pipe by partially cutting with a junior hacksaw blade or a triangular needle file, then knocking the segment out sideways with a small cold chisel. On reassembly, use threadlock or teflon tape.
If this part was a ballvalve, do you use it? If not, you could replace it with a solid male plug, e.g. 1/2" or 3/4" BSP or whatever fits.

Articulated my post “oh ****” thoughts very well. Thanks, l was just thinking that it’s a safety issue and pressure vessel and I’ve seen enough captured cctv footage to at least consult the mig welding hive mind

 

[Neo Badness]

I assume that end cap unscrews from the compressor?

Yes looks like it does and remains of ball valve fitting are lodged in pressure vessel upon closer inspection

 

[frank horton]

it's an easy fix......chances are they DIDN't use Loctite for sealing the thread....if anything at all.....
Industrial assy would use a liquid pipe sealer....
anyway.....dont touch the big nut/end cap......
being brass does make it a little easier.....lack of corrosion......
looking at ur photo, to the right of the threaded stub broken off, it sticks out a little....
my way would be to use a hacksaw blade to cut slots in the brass in at least 3-4 equal places and one being in the middle of the sticky out bit.....cut down untill u touch the steel threads on the end cap, front to back....
then with a square edge but blunt chisel tap the piece of brass next to the hacksaw groove.....
the damaged peice will split along the cut lines ....
once the damaged threaded part starts to roll inward do the same again...same groove just the other side of it...
dif to describe but , so instead of a solid round tube u now have a split tube.....
quite often this will be enough to loosen the damaged tube...with a pair of mole grips u should be able to turn it out....
if it's still a little tight just tap the rolled edge a little more inward....it will roll inward or break along one of the other hacksaw grooves....
when fitting the new ball valve just use PTFE tape .....
I always put a 90 degre elbow on my ball valves or other fittings in that position, so in the future if it get knocked it will normaly rotate outta the way not get broken off....

 

[Ashley Burton]

@Neo Badness Been there myself with my compressor falling over also, So I feel your pain

Atleast it looks like you can salvage it

 

[tom 748]

pair of stilsons

 

[pedrobedro]

I'd ream that out till I could unpick what's left of the fitting from the threads.

 

[RWD3M]

it's an easy fix......chances are they DIDN't use Loctite for sealing the thread....if anything at all.....
Industrial assy would use a liquid pipe sealer....
anyway.....dont touch the big nut/end cap......
being brass does make it a little easier.....lack of corrosion......
looking at ur photo, to the right of the threaded stub broken off, it sticks out a little....
my way would be to use a hacksaw blade to cut slots in the brass in at least 3-4 equal places and one being in the middle of the sticky out bit.....cut down untill u touch the steel threads on the end cap, front to back....
then with a square edge but blunt chisel tap the piece of brass next to the hacksaw groove.....
the damaged peice will split along the cut lines ....
once the damaged threaded part starts to roll inward do the same again...same groove just the other side of it...
dif to describe but , so instead of a solid round tube u now have a split tube.....
quite often this will be enough to loosen the damaged tube...with a pair of mole grips u should be able to turn it out....
if it's still a little tight just tap the rolled edge a little more inward....it will roll inward or break along one of the other hacksaw grooves....
when fitting the new ball valve just use PTFE tape .....
I always put a 90 degre elbow on my ball valves or other fittings in that position, so in the future if it get knocked it will normaly rotate outta the way not get broken off....

Hi Frank,

What's the reasoning behind not touching the big nut/end cap?

I'd have though that it would be the easiest way of fixing. Remove and replace along with a new ball valve

I'm sure I'm missing something

Richard.

 

[pedrobedro]

What's the reasoning behind not touching the big nut/end cap?

It's probably the boss that the ball valve screws into and is fixed to the tank.

 

[cheb]

Equally it could be a reducing boss. That it is a hex suggests it too. Might be worth scraping at the paint to see if it is a separate screwed in fitting.

The brass is probably weak enough to be battered with a punch from the front edge and collapsed in on itself until you can get needle nose pliers in to unscrew it.

 

[Wallace]

^^ I think this is correct, the valve screws into a male/female reducing bush screwed into the tank stub.

 

[brightspark]

last one I got one out with was a cold chisel tapped it in with a hammer and unscrewed it with a pair of stilsons .the square edges of the tapered chisel bite in to the tube

 

[RWD3M]

It's probably the boss that the ball valve screws into and is fixed to the tank.

Looking at mine I'm pretty sure it's just screwed in, the same as the blanking plug at the other end that comes out for inspection.