Repairing a Meddings drill table.

[cheb]

Currently looks like this and I'd like it not to.

I'm tending towards filling it with chemical metal. Welding/brazing would put too much heat into it. If the filler doesn't work I've got a suitable piece of 6mm steel I can screw onto it.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

JBWeld should that right.

 

[brewdexta]

A few pics of my Meddings radial arm drill table before and after using JB Weld. I used a mixture of old candles and newspaper to hold the JB weld stop it falling into the T-slots.

 

[cheb]

I've not the complexity of tee slots to do. Are there liquid fillers that would do the job? Previously I've used Araldite.

Also, as I have three tubes of OOD epoxy I wonder about making my own filler with it and metal filings.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I've not the complexity of tee slots to do. Are there liquid fillers that would do the job? Previously I've used Araldite.

Also, as I have three tubes of OOD epoxy I wonder about making my own filler with it and metal filings.

Assuming that ought to read "got", have a look at Milliput. It can be drilled, sanded, milled once shaped and set. Iirc, it comes on different colours too.

 

[cheb]

Nope, no tee slots, just clamping slots.

OOD = out of date.

 

[grim_d]

Assuming that ought to read "got", have a look at Milliput. It can be drilled, sanded, milled once shaped and set. Iirc, it comes on different colours too.

I've been using Aves Apoxy Sculpt for stuff like this, touted as less sticky and easier to work but does take longer to fully cure.

 

[julianf]

I think, personally, I'd get a slab of metal lazered up to the same pattern, and then, possibly, even just glue it on top.

I believe some car chassis are glued together now, and it's not as if the part will take any force at all.

I'd rather that than the blotchy finish from a filler (personally)

 

[Screwdriver]

Nice looking job on that table. So long as there are enough "lands" of flat surface, the divots are merely an annoyance.

@cheb I have a load of metal powder (used for powder flame spray welding), might be an idea to try some of that. You're welcome to a bottle of it.

I made up a widget with metal powder and superglue once. Took forever to cure, probably literally harder than the original metal.

 

[cheb]

Re glueing it down: I was thinking about that last night but forgot to include it as an option No laser cutting nearby, oxy only. I could spin it in the lathe to trim the edges down, but that would leave me with slots to cut. Not insurmountable but tedious to do by hand.


Ta for the offer of metal powder too.

 

[God mode restorations]

Couple of days with a nickel rod should sort that lol

 

[MCKDAVID]

Couple of days with a nickel rod should sort that lol

then maybe another couple of days with a mill, to try to get it flat again....

 

[gaz1]

id look at getting a lathe face plate than fill that up or get a new top fitted onto it

 

[God mode restorations]

then maybe another couple of days with a mill, to try to get it flat again....

Definitely lol.... that table has had some use for sure.... I got to do repairs on my progress drill table but then I will mill it afterwards.

 

[rtbcomp]

Assuming that ought to read "got", have a look at Milliput. It can be drilled, sanded, milled once shaped and set. Iirc, it comes on different colours too.

I used Milliput on my Elliot Progress drill, very pleased with the result.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

My next project is attacking my mill table.
@addjunkie sent me some belzonna to use.
Will be documenting it as I go.

 

[Burdekin]

You can weld them up with a mig, just take it slow and limit heat input and then finish off the edges/wee holes with an epoxy filler like JB weld.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Another thumbs up for JB Weld.

 

[Screwdriver]

You can weld them up with a mig, just take it slow and limit heat input and then finish off the edges/wee holes with an epoxy filler like JB weld.

You can but it will end in tears. While you may be able to reduce the inevitable warping, your holes will now be filled with glassy hard nodules which will be a right pain to flatten off. They will be a lot harder than the previously flat surface, typically you need to grind off the hard spots! Personally I'd go with the metal epoxy. The modern stuff is awesome.

 

[cheb]

Thanks for the suggestions. A lathe faceplate hadn't occurred to me.

Welding? I've a base model Clarke gasless, if I do any welding it's slow.