Replacing my garage roof?

[hooblah]

This year im finally going to get this job out of the way. But I need some advice first.

The current roof is cement/asbestos.

I think the most cost effective way is to replace it with corrugated steel ones. Unless there's a cheaper way? 5 off 3mx1m steel sheets will most likely come to in the region of £300 delivered. Seems expensive for what it is.

I've insulated the underside with multifoil insulation, leaving an air gap so as to make it a cold roof. This will be staying as is.

My question is mainly about how to do the job. The wooden battens at either side of the roof sit on the wall square. They are not parallel with the roof sheets. The existing roof appears to be nailed in place. I'll be replacing the wooden battens, but do I keep them square with the wall, or do I need to make them sloped so as to be parallel with the roof?

 

[gaz1]

is that seen from the front ?

is it in the rear garden ?

can you give me a side angle photo please

is that shed up against next doors wall ?

are you prepared to make it better ?

what is the width from the wall to the rear wall of the shed ( left to right on the photo )

 

[hooblah]

is that seen from the front ?

is it in the rear garden ?

can you give me a side angle photo please

is that shed up against next doors wall ?

are you prepared to make it better ?

I've added more pics.

It's in the garden. The garage door faces out into the road.

The orange blockwork is next door's garage.

Better in what way? Possibly.

 

[addjunkie]

Id put the timbers parallel to-the roof line, Id also use fibre cenent as its cheaper than box profile. Fix it down with proper roofing screws like these .

Fastco Fasteners & Fixings

Fastco Fasteners & Fixings, Leading distributors of Fasteners, Fixings, Screws Nuts and Bolts and More

www.fastco.co.uk

Id fit some kind of edge trims too, just to finish it off, either fibre cement or folded steel.

 

[gaz1]

the way it is its very ackward to seal

because you have a space at the rear of it you can just use a folded over steel side same with the other side

front wall can be sealed better with an overlaped part over the wall and then fastened to the roof but that would mean another roof structure easy enough to do and also insulate it out much better using 4" or 6" insulation

 

[gaz1]

you posted here last time you asked

I'm done with bodging... what are my options for re-roofing my garage?

I have a very old garage with single pitch corrugated cement/asbestos roof. I've had damp problems for many years. I tried to seal the exterior with cromapol two or three years ago, but it still leaks a bit. I was going to give it another coat this week as it seems like I either didnt do a good...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

it just looks better

How best to re-roof this

this that hole must be filled otherwise blowback will affect it would you cover that with lead or flashband or foam and sealant? best way please.

www.mig-welding.co.uk

but you have change to change it and make it better at this point if you want

 

[hooblah]

Id put the timbers parallel to-the roof line, Id also use fibre cenent as its cheaper than box profile. Fix it down with proper roofing screws like these .

Fastco Fasteners & Fixings

Fastco Fasteners & Fixings, Leading distributors of Fasteners, Fixings, Screws Nuts and Bolts and More

www.fastco.co.uk

Id fit some kind of edge trims too, just to finish it off, either fibre cement or folded steel.

How would I go about angling the timbers? I don't have a table saw to put a bevel on the timbers.
Those screws are very long. The timber they'll be screwing into will be 50mm i reckon.

the way it is its very ackward to seal

because you have a space at the rear of it you can just use a folded over steel side same with the other side

front wall can be sealed better with an overlaped part over the wall and then fastened to the roof but that would mean another roof structure easy enough to do and also insulate it out much better using 4" or 6" insulation

I'm not going to go to that much effort. I've got plenty of other projects. I just want it watertight. The multifoil insulation i've already got is fine.

 

[hooblah]

you posted here last time you asked

I'm done with bodging... what are my options for re-roofing my garage?

I have a very old garage with single pitch corrugated cement/asbestos roof. I've had damp problems for many years. I tried to seal the exterior with cromapol two or three years ago, but it still leaks a bit. I was going to give it another coat this week as it seems like I either didnt do a good...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

it just looks better

How best to re-roof this

this that hole must be filled otherwise blowback will affect it would you cover that with lead or flashband or foam and sealant? best way please.

www.mig-welding.co.uk

but you have change to change it and make it better at this point if you want

You're right, I did. But this year i'm actually going to get round to it

 

[gaz1]

im surprised you got away with changing the view of the front of the garage



your going to have some real fun sealing the left side against the wall and lead will have to be used



the top point being the worst even if you channeled it and fit the lead over the wall and into the channel you can and maybe will sufer from blowback at that point

the rest of the roof will be fine as is even if you wanted to make it look nice you can with an overlaped piece like in hotchiefs the linked page it just looks nicer

you can repair the front but i wouldnt advise taking it down unless it needs a full replacement

sealing it is much better from left to right as the only part to seal would be over the brick wall

 

[gaz1]

mines a front shed so had to have council permission for the roof slope as well as the height



then finished off with a loverly looking thin folded roof sheet with inserts to stop blowback

so instead of needing 5-6 lengths of roofing sheet it droped it down to 3 lengths and some adjustments

I got a much better seal for the shed so is fully waterproof since doing it

the roof got added security to it and it also has 4-6" insulation in it and makes one hell of a difference

was it worth doing yes as i wont have to touch it again

 

[hooblah]

im surprised you got away with changing the view of the front of the garage


your going to have some real fun sealing the left side against the wall and lead will have to be used


the top point being the worst even if you channeled it and fit the lead over the wall and into the channel you can and maybe will sufer from blowback at that point

the rest of the roof will be fine as is even if you wanted to make it look nice you can with an overlaped piece like in hotchiefs the linked page it just looks nicer

you can repair the front but i wouldnt advise taking it down unless it needs a full replacement

sealing it is much better from left to right as the only part to seal would be over the brick wall

Why are you surprised? It's not council owned.

Yes. I was thinking of using lead or something else with a good amount of polyurethane adhesive.

What overlapped piece are you talking about?

I'm not taking the front down. It's solid brick. I tried it before but it's not moving, so I cladded it instead.

 

[addjunkie]

How would I go about angling the timbers? I don't have a table saw to put a bevel on the timbers.
Those screws are very long. The timber they'll be screwing into will be 50mm i reckon.



I'm not going to go to that much effort. I've got plenty of other projects. I just want it watertight. The multifoil insulation i've already got is fine.

Screws are available in various lengths, they were just an example. To angle the timbers to-the roof, Id just set them in cement in the wall tops at the angle you want them.

Various flashings are available to seal, but against the wall lead is probably easiest. Lay a piece of 3/2 along the wall, and cut a grove for the lead, or step it brick by brick. Lead mate is a wonderful product to assist you.

Must admit, Id be tempted to reduce that brick work to the roof line if possible, and use 90 degree flashings on 3 sides.

 

[prepman]

Why are you surprised? It's not council owned.

Yes. I was thinking of using lead or something else with a good amount of polyurethane adhesive.

What overlapped piece are you talking about?

I'm not taking the front down. It's solid brick. I tried it before but it's not moving, so I cladded it instead.

Think he's refering to planning?

 

[hooblah]

How would 90 degree flashing work at the top and bottom ends? Ones less than 90, and the other's more than 90.

 

[gaz1]

Why are you surprised? It's not council owned.

Yes. I was thinking of using lead or something else with a good amount of polyurethane adhesive.

What overlapped piece are you talking about?

I'm not taking the front down. It's solid brick. I tried it before but it's not moving, so I cladded it instead.

its the corner piece you are going to want an overlap of about 16-18" just for the top left corner wall to roof point and its no guarantee it wont get in as its one of those so ackward to seal points

Think he's refering to planning?

as its the rear of the property you got away with it if it was at the side of the house like 123hotchiefs then planning can come into it as it has an effect when it comes to the side of the house

changing the view or the height is an issue

edit ive now zoomed right into your pic you should be fine within reason with a tin valley and a little bit of lead going over the wall

 

[addjunkie]

How would 90 degree flashing work at the top and bottom ends? Ones less than 90, and the other's more than 90.

Id use sheet metal flashings, so it closes the open edge on the high side and is less than 90. Then one down each side to finish the edges, nothing along the back as water runs off into the gutter. Put sides on first, then high onewith over lapping corners. But Id take the brick down to match roof, will make a far better job

 

[hooblah]

Cheers. Wouldn't the flashing at the high side jut out quite a bit?

I get what you're saying, but I'm not going to take the brick down lol.

I've looked at pricing for metal and fibre sheets. There's not much in it when you factor in delivery. I don't think there are many suppliers close to me and some of the delivery costs are wild. Plenty of choice for metal plastisol sheets on facebook though.

 

[addjunkie]

A 90 degree flashing bends a bit if required along its length, its only .5 or .7 mm. Last fibre cement I got was from a builders merchant, as I have an account, he ordered it in, and delivery was free. Steel is easier to handle due to weight.

If going steel, order it the length you want

 

[hooblah]

Great. Would 0.5mm sheeting be fine for the roof or would it be considered too thin?

 

[keithski122]

You also need to look into the cost of disposing of the old asbestos cement. I just had ten sheets picked up at a cost of about £450, would have been £13 a sheet at the local tip but its heavy stuff so I thought it easier to get someone else to do it.