Router questions

[oz.]

I'm wondering if router bits that are used on wood can be used to cut an alloy? I've seen a guy do it before but he didn't say if he had to buy a certain type of bit.

I have a simple shape to cut out. Only 6mm thick too so it's not like I'll need long bits.

I found a place that I can spend £4 for the material that I want so it'd be a waste (imo) to draw something up on the computer and triple the cost of making the part by getting a company to cut it with a CNC

 

[Hitch]

They can to a point, if you are just cutting, a spiral type cutter would be better than the normal 2 flute type.
Trend do some specially for aluminium....
I dont see why a 1/4" shanked slot drill couldn't be used.....(not to up on milling cutters) I assume you can get 1/4" shanked ones...

 

[Balders]

Yes a TCT cutter will cut ally. Keep the RPMs lower though.
Just be sure to trim the ally using a jigsaw/bandsaw.
The cutter might be in need of a sharpen after - as it would if you'd been cutting mahogany etc

 

[troppo]

Yeah, slower speeds, plenty of coolant and really not good for anything other than alloy of maybe brass

 

[Shox Dr]

One of my former jobs was a Shopfitter, we used Routers a lot to "mill" Ali.

The rule of cutting in an Anti-Clockwise direction is more important, when cutting freehand

 

[Wedg1e]

I always dip my cutters in paraffin if I'm cutting alloy otherwise they tend to clog up.

 

[oz.]

That's for the advice guys. I would get a slot drill but I need to trace a wooden former. I think I'll jigsaw the rough shape then finish off with a router.

In case anyone's interested, here's what I'm replicating -

For an exact replica it would need to be out of 7075 but I've been told that one of the 6000 alloys will be strong enough.

 

[troppo]

Why not just use a disc with a few holes bored into it?

 

[hotrodder]

Is that an old Cooks Brothers chainset?

6082-t6 machines quite nicely with a router (everything in the local area will end up covered in metalflake/glitter though). It's somewhere between 1/2 to 2/3 the strength of 7075-t6 so i'd skip copying the lightening holes at the very least personally. As Shox said pay attention to cutting direction, kickback when cutting ally tends to be a lot more viscious (i've bent cutter shanks when not paying attention)

 

[oz.]

^^ Rather ugly and heavy, if it can be machined easily at home then why not

Yes it is an old Cook Bros. Getting a little rare now which is why it's not in the bin. The holes where it snapped at are for the granny ring, I never use the granny ring anyway so won't be making any holes there

I can get enough metal in 6082 to make 3 replacements for £5, haven't looked at the price of 7075 yet but I'd imagine that it's a bit more expensive. Direction of cutting is basic router knowledge is it not? I'll be taking it easy, lubricating and hopefully extracting the majority of the waste as it comes off the router.

 

[hotrodder]

haven't looked at the price of 7075 yet but I'd imagine that it's a bit more expensive

Yep, and much rarer especially as offcuts

Direction of cutting is basic router knowledge is it not?

True but not everyone reading the thread may know and both climb and convential cutting have their place with wood

 

[oz.]

It would make more sense for me to have 50 of each cut, but then I can't see myself being able to afford the cost of making them then I have to find 49 customers

 

[Shox Dr]

Is that an old Cooks Brothers chainset?

And I was was thinking they were Topline.

pay attention to cutting direction, kickback when cutting ally tends to be a lot more viscious (i've bent cutter shanks when not paying attention)

really HR, I'd of thought better of you

 

[oz.]

Topline made an almost identical set but with a slightly smoother crank arm and a slightly different spider.

Here's some topline -

 

[Shox Dr]

Yup that's them, had a pair on a Boulder Defiant circa '91. Along with a pair of Nuke Proof Hubs. I've just looked for a picture, but the only one I can find is after I sold it to a mate of mine. I still have the Yellow Starship LT

 

[oz.]

I've been thinking of replicating some retro cranks to fit a more modern bottom bracket. Not going to be cheap though.

 

[hotrodder]

really HR, I'd of thought better of you

Nah, i do lots of daft things don't all blokes?

As someone who stocked up with XT thumbshifters back in the day (got one new pair left) it's nice to see some 90's kit in good condition.

 

[Shox Dr]

Nah, i do lots of daft things don't all blokes?

As someone who stocked up with XT thumbshifters back in the day (got one new pair left) it's nice to see some 90's kit in good condition.

Thanks, although those pics where taken in 2004, they look the same now. Only because I haven't ridden the bloody thing since then mind

I throw loads of early Manitou (Doug era) stuff away when I closed CVI. Wish I had kept it. Still got some Mantiou FS frame parts though





(sorry for thread jacking)

 

[chunkolini]

Oz, dare I ask why you are making pimp ass componentry?
Also how does the spider fix onto the crank arm?
Surely an old enamel plate or saucepan lid could be made to work?
Last query, how did you knacker it so comprehensively?

Those old 90's bikes look so funny with the benefit of hindsight. The components? they can be worth a mint on Fleabay. I flogged some of the useless Gripshift Xray shifters for 70 quid a few years back. I think guys who lusted after that old junk are trying to recreate the 'good old days'. ie when tricknology did not work or look good but was light. Apologies OT.

Chunko'.

 

[oz.]

I'm replacing pimp ass componentry. The cranks are my brother's and the only reason I'm using the is because he hadn't touched them for 10yrs. If they were cheap things that didn't bring in a decent price then they'd be in the bin or bodged onto the clunker

I was pulling off (seated acceletation) onto a roundabout from stationary, heard a small "clunk" so went to pull on to the pavement. On the next pedal stroke it shat itself. Chainring bolts were tight so there was an equal amount of force on each arm. I guess they failed from age.

On the back there is a round spigot with three pins around it and a medium sized torx bolt going into the back of the crank arm. Going to have a go at getting the bolt out with heat tonight as it didn't want to shift. Sodding torx bits are quite fragile and don't take as much force as a hex before they break.