But not what you might think! I want to make things rust. I've had a look on t'internet and there seems to be various schools of thought about how to accelerate rusting involving Hydrogen Peroxide, bleach etc. I've had a bash with salty water previously which gives a thin coating of bright orange rust; something I'm keen to avoid. Has anyone here (chemists and artists probably) got any experience doing this or any ideas about how I might speed up the rusting process. I really want a deep layer of dark coloured rust that you might see on something after a year or two outside. Any ideas, however barmy, welcome! Ta.
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rtbcomp
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Have a look at the link in Wyn's post (No 3) in this thread
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=13587
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=13587
Thanks Danny. Pickling paste is another new one. Guess I'm not so keen on that idea as for a reasonably large area I can see it being expensive and time consuming to paint on. I'm hoping to find something I can spray on or, less ideally, dip things in.
Rtb, I'd found that site from Google but thanks anyway. Sadly it says those are effects for copper, bronze and brass, not steel.
Rtb, I'd found that site from Google but thanks anyway. Sadly it says those are effects for copper, bronze and brass, not steel.
chunkolini
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Try ammonium Chloride, can be bought from ebay. I use this a lot on my sculptures, gives a 'mature' finish in a couple of days and not a nasty chemical in sight. Get the metal thoroughly clean then just scrub it on with a scotchbrite pad, in a few hours you have the thin orange layer, a couple of days later, job done. Keep it moist of you can. I used to spray it on but get a better result with a scouring pad.
Chunko'.
Chunko'.
rtcosic
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You just know I'm going to tell you to use the electrolytic process - just reverse the polarity to make your workpiece the sacrifical anode.
It will tend to make pitting corrosion which make be a bonus or a problem depending on the effect you are looking for.
It will tend to make pitting corrosion which make be a bonus or a problem depending on the effect you are looking for.
Ammonium Chloride is one of the ones I read about. So after a couple of days you reckon I'd have quite a nice dark rust that isn't just lying on the surface Chunko'? And the Scotchbrite pad is worth the extra faff? And what sort of concentrations are we talking about?
Rtcosic, I considered the electrolytic one but, TBH, haven't got it sorted for cleaning yet! Plus the items I'm currently concerned with are 7' tall and 2' square and I haven't a suitable receptacle for 5 of them!
Rtcosic, I considered the electrolytic one but, TBH, haven't got it sorted for cleaning yet! Plus the items I'm currently concerned with are 7' tall and 2' square and I haven't a suitable receptacle for 5 of them!
heres the overnight of an accidental spill, i "cleaned" of most of the spill with a rag and this is what it looked like a few days later. pickle paste is about 20 quid a litre (i think) and has other uses as well like cleaning up your stainless. i am using sandvik pickle at the moment, from sweden i think.
Paul.
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Be careful with pickling paste Archie, its evil stuff, the most effective ones such as Sandvik formula 1, and Antox 71 E contain nitric and Hydrofluoric acid
there are some citrus based one around but the sample I tried was about as strong as lemon juice, An artist I used to do some work for used rocksalt, I like the sound of chunko's ammonium Chloride, much safer
there are some citrus based one around but the sample I tried was about as strong as lemon juice, An artist I used to do some work for used rocksalt, I like the sound of chunko's ammonium Chloride, much safer
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Have you thought of sticking a Fiat badge on it, will soon go rusty! 
I remember being cautioned as a student when we were about to use this stuff - it's a bit like other strong acids except it doesn't stop when it reaches the bone...
craigelland
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if you dont get the right results from the paste,send your items to me i will lean them next to my transit van overnight,and see if it passes the rust on to your stuff
Don't think I'll risk amputation for someone else's art. 
i used citric acid stainless cleaner a few weeks back for cleaning stainless dicoloration with scotch pads, was happy with it but its just like an oven cleaner really, the paste is a different thing altogether, do in a well aired area and wear glooves, if it gets in skin or eyes just wash with cold water.
chunkolini
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Here are a couple of pics of Amonium Chloride in action.
Sculpture made
Later that day just after chemicalising it you can see some of the greeny bits
Two days later, not finished but looking ok. The deep brown finish takes a while to develop, this lovely weather is perfect for this job.
Nice and easy stuff to use. The first time I did it to a large sculpture I was having kittens, it turns a grotty greenish colour, then black, then orange n a few hours.
I had a chat with a chemistry teacher I know he explained how it works.NH3Cl, basically it fumes off ammonia which leaves a weak solution of Hydrochloric acid. The ammonia can be smelt but not to bad, I am happy using it indoors, the acid neutralises itself as it attacks the steel, so no nasty residues.
I mix it up in hot water to a saturated solution and put it on wearing a pair of yellow marigolds, never ever wear the blue or pink ones.
When you apply it make sure that you have wetted the whole piece or you get gaps. To check for this watch out for the whole surface being wet, if you get raised droplets it has not wetted properly. I find using a scouring pad quicker than a spray as it gets the whole surface wet, it also seems to break down surface grease.
Oh, and dont spray it around your tool kit.
I have dabbled with pickling paste, narrrrsssttty stuff, toxic fumes and burns. I only use this for stainless steel.
I buy it off flea bay, I have tried buying ot from chemical suppliers and had so much hassle re what am I doing with it, what for, who am I etc, flea bay has a reoutable supplier and is cheaper.
Chunko'.
Sculpture made
Later that day just after chemicalising it you can see some of the greeny bits
Two days later, not finished but looking ok. The deep brown finish takes a while to develop, this lovely weather is perfect for this job.
Nice and easy stuff to use. The first time I did it to a large sculpture I was having kittens, it turns a grotty greenish colour, then black, then orange n a few hours.
I had a chat with a chemistry teacher I know he explained how it works.NH3Cl, basically it fumes off ammonia which leaves a weak solution of Hydrochloric acid. The ammonia can be smelt but not to bad, I am happy using it indoors, the acid neutralises itself as it attacks the steel, so no nasty residues.
I mix it up in hot water to a saturated solution and put it on wearing a pair of yellow marigolds, never ever wear the blue or pink ones.
When you apply it make sure that you have wetted the whole piece or you get gaps. To check for this watch out for the whole surface being wet, if you get raised droplets it has not wetted properly. I find using a scouring pad quicker than a spray as it gets the whole surface wet, it also seems to break down surface grease.
Oh, and dont spray it around your tool kit.
I have dabbled with pickling paste, narrrrsssttty stuff, toxic fumes and burns. I only use this for stainless steel.
I buy it off flea bay, I have tried buying ot from chemical suppliers and had so much hassle re what am I doing with it, what for, who am I etc, flea bay has a reoutable supplier and is cheaper.
Chunko'.
I agree. Why pay for, and/or risk your health, using dangerous chemicals?
Electrolysis must be the first thing to try. I haven't looked at the aesthetics of the rust on the donor side. All I know is that it rusts like crazy.
